Ignition switch failure?

#1

It was bound to happen to a 25 year old truck. The Ignition lock will cycle the glow plugs but not crank. Anybody know how much a new one is? And if its a special order? Or maybe even how to fix the thing?

#2

You need to diagose this further.

Have you jumpered to the small (5/16" male spade terminal) on the starter and verified that the starter is operational?

If that's OK, remove the plastic around the Ign. switch/MF switch. You can check for power in the Start position on the Blk/Red wire, as shown in the 1982 FSM, page EL-11.

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If there's power there, then you have a wiring problem. No power at the Blk/Red wire in Start position? Probably a bad Ign. switch, not the lock but the switch. The switch is still available, it comes off with one or two small phillips-head screws, and Philip found the correct switch via a Subaru application -- Subaru & Nissan used the same lock hardware in those years.

I have a Nissan NOS Maxima switch, but I might have a used 720 switch as well.

Maxima switch shown (720 similar):

#3

The wiring diagram indicates that the 720's switch has a pigtail, as opposed to the Maxima's switch. I don't seem to have a spare 720 switch around here. Philip, can you comment on this?

#4

philip wrote:I recall a single multiblade connector on the harness but I'm not recalling a single wire pigtail.

A multi-wire connector & harness ("pigtail") is what I meant.

#5

I was wondering about the starter today but as of yet it has given me no tell tale signs of failure IE clicking, grinding, less torque. And I don't think I did anything to disturb the wiring, but I'll diagnose the starter tonight, but I think the switch itself is broken. It twists CCW well past the key release (didn't do that yesterday) and doesn't spin far enough CW to reach the ignition poll.

#6

I haven't had one of them apart in a while, and I can't recall whether the switch limits the lock cylinder travel, but it usually doesn't. You might be right: the lock may be broken.

And I don't think I have any spares (I've sold several to members here, that I've scavenged from JYs and made new keys for) . . . no, unless I have some in far storage, I don't, and ASP doesn't make a replacement assy, only the lock core ($40). Now you know why I pull them at JYs when I find good ones.

#7

I picked up two lock assys. at the JY today, neither have keycodes or keys. They both have no pigtail on the switch.

So I've got a couple of used switches, if you think you need one, and if the lock's broken, I can probably fit a key to one of these and resell the thing to you. I've been getting $35 for the lock assy with two new keys.

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Saw an '84 gasser 720 4WD with a tilt column today. Didn't know it was an option. Got a brown door panel off a black '85 for the Yellow "Arlington Truck". And another MF Switch, no pigtails ('84). Nissan must have gone to the pigtail version MF Switch in '85 or '86.

#8

I found hitting the switch gets the things working well for now. I figure I'd just get the new lock assembly so that I won't have to fave this for another 25 years. I appreciate your help though, Mr. Savage

#9

The right switch for my '82 720 with steering column lock was listed for a 1978 or 1980 Subaru. ALL the part books found the same "looking" part that also show those older Nissan MAXIMA.

ALSO ... for some reason the peg does not push into the steering column LOCK via the key. This particular truck has never worked.

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Ignition switch failure?

Ignition switch failure?

Smacking the thing works well

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