Front brake drag

[EvergreenSD]

The other day I noticed for the first time a squeaking and dragging sound coming from the driver's front wheel. I jacked it up to find that the brake was dragging. I could turn the tire by hand with some difficulty but if the brakes were pumped it would tighten up and I couldn't turn it. Today I took the wheels off and flushed a bunch of brake fluid through both of the front brakes with my mighty-vac but it didn't help. It didn't even loosen up when the bleeder screw was open and fluid was coming out. So I'm thinking that the caliper is in need of help. At first I was thinking I would have to overhaul the caliper but when I looked online I saw that Napa has a remanufactered caliper for barely more money than the parts. Is this a reasonable thing to buy? Is there a brand/source I should look for? I don't have time or money right now but brakes are important. I sure like the idea of not having to get that old caliper all clean and spiffy in order to rebuild it. Thanks for the advice.

[asavage]

It's an opposed dual-piston design, so that eliminates the possibility of a rusted caliper slider. Sounds like a seizing caliper piston. Go directly to a new or rebuilt caliper, before it takes out the rotor, if it hasn't already. Rotors can generally only be seriously overheated once, and then no matter what you do they will not stay true.

[philip]

SNIP- I could turn the tire by hand with some difficulty but if the brakes were pumped it would tighten up and I couldn't turn it. -SNIP

Shortly after I first got thus truck, I noticed the same wheel pad dragging such as you. Each caliper has two pistons in a single cylinder. The problems were the two rubbler seals in each cylinder ... failing to release normaly the two pistons (a "flex" effect). I took everything apart and cleaned (pistons clothed, cyliners and esp the seal groove with fine grit, the YOKE slip regreased). Use NEW rubber seals.

NOTE: You must pull the pistons from the cylinder in order to replace piston seals. It is only the dust seal that you will "see" externally.

IF you happen to find dry/cracked hose lines, I would certainly replace these too!

[asavage]

If you have not repaired brake calipers before, I do not recommend it. Buy new or rebuilt. They are easy to screw up, and I do not screw around with brakes.

[EvergreenSD]

Thanks for the tips guys. Given that some rusty metal grit came out of that caliper (but not the other one) I am thinking that the pistons may be due for replacement also. In this case it is cheaper to get a reman than to buy new pistons and seals. Besides I'm not going to complain about being spared the rebuild task. Napa lists semi-loaded calipers for around $40 which is alot less than I was anticipating. I'm going to check with the local service parts supplier. Are there any brands I should look for or avoid? Thanks again, you guys are the best resource I could ask for. Also, get better Phillip!

[philip]

SNIP- I'm going to check with the local service parts supplier. Are there any brands I should look for or avoid? Thanks again, you guys are the best resource I could ask for. Also, get better Phillip!

You may well find "semi-loaded" means more than just one caliper. Since you have a 1982 (caliper N22A type), make sure they do not give you the later caliper (CL28VA).

Also ... be VERY carefully about the SHIMS and the SPRINGS replaced. BE CORRECT.



There has been an upchange to the spring clips and on the "J-clips" pins.



And thank you.