Its wierd, almost overnight my brake system started grinding and squeeking like I've neglected it for years. The truck didn't do this 2 days ago. The front pads don't squeek so much as the sound like they are scraping until I apply brake pressure.The back grinds like I got a bad wheel bearing but it only does it when I brake. Are these normal ware signs for this truck or should I be concernedWorst case situation, are the rear wheel bearings sealed or can they be repacked?
So, I went to Checkers (schucks in some parts) and for the brake shoes they gave 2 different criteria. One for the 82 model and one for the late model 82. I'm alittle confused. Does this mean late in the production year of 81 or early 82? (ID Plate says Sept 81) And was there some sort of rear end change then?
I have never had the wheels off the truck. I haven't had a reason until now. I'm kind of scared of what I might find. (Be gentle Phillip )I'm planning the brake job tomorrow so I guess I'll find out
82 Datsun 720 King Cab Diesel - FOR SALE !!!!
85 Chevy Monte Carlo CL
90 Toyota Pickup -SOLD
05 Kia Spectra 5
02 Dodge Dakota Quadcab
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TooManyIdeas wrote:I have never had the wheels off the truck. I haven't had a reason until now. I'm kind of scared of what I might find. (Be gentle Phillip )I'm planning the brake job tomorrow so I guess I'll find out
On the rears: Clay can verify, since he watched me remove his. Take off wheels. Spray your favorite petroleum-based penetrating fluid liberally around all six studs and the hub, trying to get the fluid behind the drum and to the drum/flange interface.
Use 8mmx1.25 bolts and thread two of them into the provided threaded holes in the drum. Gently snug them just a little bit! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO TIGHTEN THEM TIGHT. Sorry to shout, but you absolutely cannot jack the drum off using those holes, the drum material is not thick enough to support the load. Just put a little pressure on the bolts.
Smack the drum around the edges with a heavy hammer. Do not hit it hard, you'll just break the drum. Just use the hammer to vibrate the drum. With the jack bolts providing a little tension, and the penetrant, and the hammering, the drum will come off the flange.
If the drum has a lip in an unworn area (ie the shoe is metal-to-metal against the drum, or some yahoo didn't turn the drum last time), you will have to back off the shoe adjuster before you can pull the drum completely off. If you try to use a puller, all you will do is bend the shoes.
The jack bolts help a lot. If you're lucky, nobody got to them before you and stripped out the holes. Don't neglect the penetrant. I have had to resort to the heat wrench on very bad drums; so far, not on a 720.
I wonder what the FSM has to say about drum removal.
You might find a bit of gravel in the friction material. Every time I've seen that, it's been in a disk pad, and makes more noise when applied, though once I had a piece of gravel lodge between the rotor and the disk, which made a nasty noise at all times.
)I'm planning the brake job tomorrow so I guess I'll find out
