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Post Number:#121  PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 1:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:41 pm
Posts: 355
Location: Vancouver Washington USA
ecomike wrote:
Greetings. Been a while since I posted here due in part to my very near death illness the last 2 years (HI Al!!!)....long story, share it later. I still have my Franken-Jeep Cherokee, 1985 with the SD-22 power train transplant. But with my sever rheumatoid arthritis now I can barely operate the clutch. As I recall when I rebuilt the 5 speed myself about 10 years ago, I used an aftermarket extra heavy duty clutch. I am wondering if others here have noticed having a hard time pushing the foot pedal on standard duty Nissan clutches? I am thinking of going back to the OEM clutch plate??? My only other option, which may not be an option(??) is to install a custom vacuum boosted power clutch master cylinder if I can one to adapt to a 85 jeep cherokee???

By the way, the engine still runs and starts like a new beast!!!! Everything on this jeep still works :-)



I have always used stock clutch covers(pressure plates) and discs, I have never had an issue pushing the clutch pedal in, but I am not fighting what you are either, at least not yet.
When I was a kid I owned an early Nova with a built 350, race built, not street built, most would have called it un-street-able, it was dangerous to drive when the pavement was wet, anyway I put a very heavy duty clutch cover/disc in that car and I kept breaking the clutch disengagement system because the clutch was so hard to push, it was a mechanical system, I drove it almost a year without a clutch pedal at all, I just slowed down till the traffic ahead of me started moving, I am sure some thought I was aggravating to follow, but I did what I had to do.
I finally got tired of having to hit the starter while it was in gear to get it moving, so I took the heavy duty stuff out and put a stock Chevy clutch cover/disc in the car and never had an issue even with that engine in it, so I would say to put a stock setup in it, just remember that you have to have the proper throw out bearing collar that matches the clutch cover height, as I have no idea if the aftermarket heavy duty setup you have came with its own throw out bearing collar.
I hope you get even better soon!!!

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Post Number:#122  PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:15 pm
Posts: 242
Location: Houston Tx
I bought the entire Clutch throw out bearing and Pressure plate from a transmission wholesaler that had a heavy duty set up specific for the SD-22 and the FS5W71 series manual 5 speed....At the time the engine was running poorly and tended to die during engagement in first gear (bucked like a mad horse). At the time I thought the jeep rear end was mismatched to the engine. I later discovered the leather diaphragm in the full injector pump governor was shot. It would buck going into first gear. Solved that problem a decade ago by replacing the pneumatic diaphragm and rebuilding the transmission might have helped some. I use to be hard on clutches as a kid with my first car being manual and being 18 YO LOL. So by the time I bought this rig, and the way I was having to slip the clutch to keep it from dying going into first when I first got it, I went with a heavy duty when I rebuilt the transmission (one of the first things I think I did).

Don't have the bucking problem any more, not for the last 8 plus years. So it sounds like I just need to install a new OEM clutch package.

Thanks guys!

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Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.


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Post Number:#123  PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:15 pm
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Location: Houston Tx
waynosworld,

I used to ride a bike all over Houston, for hours per day. Tried that in my mid forties one day and thought I was going die the next day (lactic acid in my muscles) just from riding 3 miles on a bike the day before, LOL. I also use to press 400 lbs on the leg press in the gym, but now I can barely lift a 1 gallon jug of water, about 8 lbs. I also use to bowl with a 16 lb ball about 50-60 games a week when I was in my 20's. 2 years ago I slammed with 4 illnesses at once, took months to figure it all out, hyperthyroidism (lost 80 lbs of muscle and fat, fell from 220 to 136 lbs), severe bronchitis, a new food allergy (dairy) and last not least off the charts tests showing out of control rheumatoid arthritis. Now just dealing with steroid withdrawal and the seriously bad RA. I could not sit up under my own power 18 months ago, or stand up on my own. Made taking a leak a real chore. Considering how far down the rabbit hole I got, I am doing much better, but the Steroids ruined my eyes, I was blind 8 weeks ago, but cataract surgery has me back at 20:20, awesome medical trick!!!

Just can't stand the idea of giving up my manual Nissan diesel jeep :-) , it is a bit of a love affair, and I spent way too much sweat and time and money rebuilding the Nissan 5 speed transmission. So one way or another I am going to figure out how to make the clutch easier on my leg now.

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Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.


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Post Number:#124  PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 4:55 pm 
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Location: Duvall, Wash.
VW Beetles in the 60s were available with a semi-automatic. Many mfgrs had a version of not-manual, not-real-automatic transmission (Hillmans got both Manumatic and Easidrive; neither was any good). VWs would not do the shifting, like most of the semi-autos.

The VW version is a 3-spd manual trans with both a torque converter and a conventional clutch. Conventional shift lever, but the knob has a microswitch. As soon as you touch the knob, the switch activates a solenoid, opening a vacuum reservoir to a diaphragm that pushes the clutch released. Move the shift lever, let go of the shift knob, and the switch opens, the valve closes, and the diaphragm evacuates and reengages the clutch.

The trick was how fast or slow to move that diaphragm. There was control system, German, and it worked about as well as this kind of thing could.

Image Image

A decent primer is [url=https://www.vwheritage.com/blog/2015/12/03/whats-a-semi-auto-beetle/[/url]here[/url].

Suprisingly, there are bunch of parts for these things on eBay ATM.

I was not recalling the torque converter part of that system, but the vacuum diaphragm operated clutch came to mind. Air-assist clutch, so to speak.

One of the Hillman (Rootes Group) units had a system similar to VW's, only a few years earlier I believe, and with Lucas electrics. I don't think you'll find any of those driving around anymore!

----

VW had a habit: the floor pans for the full auto and semi auto cars mostly did not have the tube installed for the clutch cable. Thus, you usually could not convert a semi or full auto car into a manual trans, without changing the entire floor pan.

I did that job, on my brother's red 1969 or '70 VW Fastback. It came with the AT, but he wanted MT, so I bought a rolled orange '71 Squareback and swapped out the pan. That job kind of permanently put a sway in Mom's garage, from hoisting the body suspended by the rafters.

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Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.


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Post Number:#125  PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2016 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2006 11:15 pm
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Location: Houston Tx
Very interesting Al!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

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Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.


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