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dpc motor

Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:01 am
by zen
help..need a 12v one...mines 24v and electrics are 12v!!

cant get one here (uk,as all 24v!)

now i recon its similar/identical to a windscreen wiper motor or elecy window motor....?but from what?

has anyone here had trouble with their's and replaced with something?

regards

Re: dpc motor

Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:30 am
by philip
zen wrote:help...need a 12v one...mines 24v and electrics are 12v!! -SNIP- has anyone here had trouble with their's and replaced with something?
Long time :wink:

For those who couldn't repair our SD four's DPC, a push/pull cable was the solution.

Pull to STOP
Push to first resistance is RUN
Push further against the resistance and hold is START. Then you would simply release the cable which would move the Fuel Lever back to RUN position.

Now ... what injection pump do you have now in your SD33 ? Last I heard, you had a VE installed?

Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:36 pm
by asavage
Do you need only the DPC motor, or the DPC (control) module as well? Probably both, eh?

For those of you trying to follow along, see the DPC/IPC thread. Philip has a cool video of the DPC motor in operation.

If you have the DPC motor and are willing to go to manual control of it, I posted a semi-simple rotary switch method of DPC motor control in the same thread, for member dieselscout80.

I have a spare SD22 DPC motor and DPC module. I even have a wiring harness for them -- the connectors are the hard part. But they are not cheap. Hopefully, you can find someone else who has spares cheaper than I for these items.

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:53 pm
by zen
ah ha..yes hello...

no just need the 12v motor...nothing else..

its all wired up at present, and connected to ip..(which is proper kiki inline turbo pump,off a german sd33t patrol)the problem is of course as its 24v motor operation is "slow", but functional,just..

i have read all the dpc posts prevoiusly, and based my manual control around them,(though i have the/similar workshop manual it was thoughtfully and helpfully lifted from)..it has 3 push button switches in the cab.green= run,red=stop, orange=start../extra fuel..the switches control4 relays which either reverse the polarity (so as motor turns the correct way when going from position to position without going though the one not required..ie from extra fuel to run and visa versa without going though stop etc..) and/or feed the relevent dpc control wires.

it works well,and acts as an extra theive deterent..the reason i wanted it was to allow extra fueling on the move, rather than run/stop function( i had a cable before) so as can make use of the nitros kit..(no point with out extra fuel!!)

however it does not seem to give much extra fuel..that needs to be investigated further..prehaps the ip wont give any at rpm,just at tick over.will will see..

Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:30 pm
by asavage
zen wrote:no just need the 12v motor...nothing else..
You might do better to post the request in the Peddle & Procure it forum then.
the switches control4 relays which either reverse the polarity (so as motor turns the correct way when going from position to position . . .
The DPC motor & esp. the geneva gears are not really designed for bidirectional operation. While I do not doubt that your setup works, I am guessing that Nissan kept the motor running in one direction for a good reason -- same reason that windscreen wiper motors do not reverse. The motor's armature and the worm drive is not designed for thrust load in both directions.

But I understand why you did it that way. No fun to push the nitrous button, and when you let up, the engine goes to STOP before getting back to RUN.

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 1:01 pm
by zen
still need a motor though..