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 Post subject: Marine parts for SD33T
Post Number:#1  PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 2:17 pm 
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Location: Sweden
I am just getting to know this forum but thought I should present my "area of interest".
Looking for a rugged straight-six diesel for repowering my boat, I found an SD33T from an -86 Patrol.
Does anyone know where to find marine parts?
I have found a canadian manufacturer (Thomson Foundry) that can supply the watercooled exhaust manifold. Is there possibly any alternative solution/manufacturer?

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Previous project: repower an LD20 into a Volvo 240. Current project: marinisation of an SD33T.


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 Post subject: Marine smoker
Post Number:#2  PostPosted: Sun Apr 29, 2012 3:16 pm 
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Location: Hialeah Fla.
I'm sure someone will jump in soon, but you should also consider this other site, as they have a bunch of Sd33 experts there....


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Post Number:#3  PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:58 pm 
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Thank you!
Another question as I am getting to know this enigne, does anyonw know where to find books/manuals for the SD33T?

And what is the electric motor that looks like a "electric window motor", located below the injection pump for?
(sorry for asking basic stupid questions...)

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Previous project: repower an LD20 into a Volvo 240. Current project: marinisation of an SD33T.


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 Post subject: Smoke on the water
Post Number:#4  PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:19 pm 
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See if you can follow this link, it might just give the info you need.

Hope it works for you.

Dslsmoke


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Post Number:#5  PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 5:10 am 
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swedenmarine wrote:
I am just getting to know this forum but thought I should present my "area of interest".
Looking for a rugged straight-six diesel for repowering my boat, I found an SD33T from an -86 Patrol.
Does anyone know where to find marine parts?
I have found a canadian manufacturer (Thomson Foundry) that can supply the watercooled exhaust manifold. Is there possibly any alternative solution/manufacturer?


Hi Sweden marine. Having owned the marinized SD22 by Chrysler Nissan, CN33-4, and then replacing it with the SD22 out of a Datsun PU truck, (viewtopic.php?t=1444), I had to switch some parts. Not the SD33 but I think there are many similarities.

You have the marine manifold info. That's a must(and expensive I'm told!). I swapped my existing manifold from my 1974 CN33. The gasket I got from Jesco out of California. I reused my existing exhaust on my boat from there.

Another big swap for me was the Bosch Injection pump. The CN33(and I presume the 6 cylinder SD33 you have) was fitted with the manual governor. This holds the rpms to about 2600. This governor was designed for the lower speed operation of the first SD's(I think) that were used in water pumps and generators as well as the marine application by Chrysler.

The SD that came out of the Datsun PU had another governor which allows higher rpms and horsepower. I didn't need the extra power and it complicated the installation. The manual governor has a simple throttle linkage well suited for my sailboat. I'm not sure what boat you're putting the SD33 into and what output you need. Some of the SD33 were fitted to power boats which may have been set up for higher output.

Other than that, the straight SD22 (and I would imagine the SD33), fits all the marine needs.

Most other parts are so far available from Jesco in Calif. and I'm finding other sources with some research(filters and many other parts are available from many sources-you'll see many here on this website). I would guess you have even better access from your part of the world to SD parts once you start researching.

Hope this helps some. What are you putting the SD33 into?


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 Post subject: The motor below the IP
Post Number:#6  PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 5:14 am 
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Location: Rockport Maine
I have no experience but I suspect if the electric motor is below the injection pump, it's an electric fuel supply pump. On the SD22, that's where the Bosch manual supply pump is located. Could be a stock item for the application or added later perhaps?


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Post Number:#7  PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 12:26 pm 
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Tom Young wrote:
I have no experience but I suspect if the electric motor is below the injection pump, it's an electric fuel supply pump. On the SD22, that's where the Bosch manual supply pump is located. Could be a stock item for the application or added later perhaps?


I should add that the motor controls something on the IP linked via a wire. My guess at first was that it had something to do with stopping the engine, replacing the need for manually pulling a stop wire or, like on other brand engines, by using a magnetic valve.
A bit complicated perhaps but possible? Cheap trick if you take on-shelf parts.. japs are clever and inventive!

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Previous project: repower an LD20 into a Volvo 240. Current project: marinisation of an SD33T.


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 Post subject: Re: Smoke on the water
Post Number:#8  PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 12:39 pm 
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Dslsmoke wrote:
See if you can follow this link, it might just give the info you need.

Hope it works for you.

Dslsmoke


Thank you! I realise its smarter to start reading from top now..hm. So I was on the right track with my engine-stop idea, This explains a lot! Since the control unit is gone (part of the scrapped donator-patrol) I guess the best way forward is to get rid of the motor and replace it with a wire for stopping the engine and if needed some sort of gadget for extra fuel at start. Is it needed? Keep in mind it is for a boat.. will not be operating during winter..

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Post Number:#9  PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 12:57 pm 
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The SD33T will power a small (19ft) plaining hull (unsure I´m using the right word).
The engine is a bit too big to be fair but better safe than sorry.. and the power output is not a lot. If I reach 30 knots I will be fully satisfied. What I look forward to is most of all to listen to a straight-six diesel muffled only by the coolingwater. That´s music!
Even though it´s not the topic for this forum I can mention that I am connecting the engine to a Borg-Warner Velvet-drive that formerly has been attached to a 454cu.in (330hp) V8 installed in a 32ft Wellcraft, so that part is not the limiting factor. The tricky part is now to connect the two but it looks managable. The transfercase from the V8 fits with some mod´s and the disc that bolts to the flywhell was bolt-on!
The SD33 is a rare engine since it´s in the size just between a "normal" auto-engine and a truck, and it´s fun to try with something a bit unusual. Choosing a Volvo Penta marine diesel would be just too easy...

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Post Number:#10  PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:07 am 
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I have the cylinder head off of my 1972 SD 33, and got a gasket set (from Tiffin Parts in Ohio) that is for a 1980 and newer, even though I specified the earlier engine.
It came with a lot (10) of rubber coated rings that look like they are the same size as the small copper gaskets for the injector tips, and some larger ones that look the same size as the upper copper compression seal on the injectors....the kit also has 6 small copper rings for the injector tip, but only two of the larger copper rings...it has a couple of some medium sized rubber rings too...
I have a free copy of the service manual from the internet missing three pages (M 15-18) and tried to buy a copy but it is missing those pages too. The manual says "don't forget to install the rubber seals" in the head gasket...
I have placed two of the large rubber rings in the head gasket at the rear end where they fit over what seems to be oil passages, and two of the medium ones on two passages forward of No 5 cylinder....there is another hole at the rear end of the gasket, that has a "stepped" end in the block, and there is one copper "compression' type ring that seems to fit there, but I am not sure about what is supposed to go there...So basically, I am missing a drawing of the head gasket that shows where the sealing rings go, and a list of the parts that are required...the 1980 gasket set has smaller valve guide seals too, but I cut the valve guides down and used a better type, so that seems to be ok...but it is frustrating not being sure about why there are so many of the rubber coated rings, and not knowing where they go...there are holes in the gasket that are the size of the small rings, but they are "blank" against the block and head...no passages in either, at those holes...should I put the rings there? are these a new type of injector seal? I took the head off because there was a lot of white smoke that smelled like unburnt fuel, but seemed to be water vapor, but the head gasket did not look "blown"...so I had it serviced, and now have this problem with the gasket set...any guidance would be appreciated.
Robert
robertooroark@gmail.com
415 250 3214


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Post Number:#11  PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:08 am 
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I have the cylinder head off of my 1972 SD 33, and got a gasket set (from Tiffin Parts in Ohio) that is for a 1980 and newer, even though I specified the earlier engine.
It came with a lot (10) of rubber coated rings that look like they are the same size as the small copper gaskets for the injector tips, and some larger ones that look the same size as the upper copper compression seal on the injectors....the kit also has 6 small copper rings for the injector tip, but only two of the larger copper rings...it has a couple of some medium sized rubber rings too...
I have a free copy of the service manual from the internet missing three pages (M 15-18) and tried to buy a copy but it is missing those pages too. The manual says "don't forget to install the rubber seals" in the head gasket...
I have placed two of the large rubber rings in the head gasket at the rear end where they fit over what seems to be oil passages, and two of the medium ones on two passages forward of No 5 cylinder....there is another hole at the rear end of the gasket, that has a "stepped" end in the block, and there is one copper "compression' type ring that seems to fit there, but I am not sure about what is supposed to go there...So basically, I am missing a drawing of the head gasket that shows where the sealing rings go, and a list of the parts that are required...the 1980 gasket set has smaller valve guide seals too, but I cut the valve guides down and used a better type, so that seems to be ok...but it is frustrating not being sure about why there are so many of the rubber coated rings, and not knowing where they go...there are holes in the gasket that are the size of the small rings, but they are "blank" against the block and head...no passages in either, at those holes...should I put the rings there? are these a new type of injector seal? I took the head off because there was a lot of white smoke that smelled like unburnt fuel, but seemed to be water vapor, but the head gasket did not look "blown"...so I had it serviced, and now have this problem with the gasket set...any guidance would be appreciated.
Robert
robertooroark@gmail.com
415 250 3214


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 Post subject: Re: Smoke on the water
Post Number:#12  PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:12 pm 
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Since the control unit is gone (part of the scrapped donator-patrol) I guess the best way forward is to get rid of the motor and replace it with a wire for stopping the engine and if needed some sort of gadget for extra fuel at start. Is it needed? Keep in mind it is for a boat.. will not be operating during winter..


Many people do use a Bowen cable to control the IP instead of Nissan's electric control system. You don't get Start fuel enrichment, though.

If you have the little "wiper motor" and can find an old rotary select switch, back in 2006 I posted on how to make yourself a manual control.

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1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.


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