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'84 M1009 CUCV Blazer
Posted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:24 pm
Tommorow im *probably* gonna be buying my newest acquisition to the fleet, sight unseen. 1984 Cuck-Vee blazer 6.2 diesel, drab green, racks, nato plugs the whole 9 yards. Ive seen it run around town for a bit and its f/s for 500 USD. The only catch is it needs a rear main, drops almost the entire pan's worth in a few days.
The rear main in these are 2 pieces and can be changed by yanking the pan right? I know some of you are proud owners of 6.2's and mabye offer me some insight on the job. Im probably gonna retrofit a/c and a radio into it, that should be pretty straightfoward when the time comes.
Also if anybody has comments about them, feel free to spit out some replies, I think its gonna be destined as a part time off roader and light duty work truck, but also as a main backup for when I start hacking into the maxima's bodywork
Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:31 am
Felpro makes a two piece main for the 6.2. Wasn't too hard to change in my '85. The transmission cooler lines had to be moved to get the pan down. I couldn't budge the fittings on either end, so I cut them and joined them back with hose. It's not something I would normally do, but I couldn't see an economical alternative. If you wind up cutting yours, offset the cuts so you don't have the extra bulk of hose and clamps side by side on both lines.
Posted: Tue May 19, 2009 10:27 pm
Well, I finally secured this truck, 400 bucks- half of its original 800 asking price.
Even though im not daily driving it all that much, it has several problems that I need to fix or know a bit more about.
First time its been cranked in over 6 months, and didnt start up until 2 batteries and thousands of jumps later, no thumps, no signs of life until it started flawlessly. Laying on the glow plugs 10-20 second intervals. (manual gpc + starter) Also it wont turn off unless I leave the key in the off position for about a minute. I think its a sticking fuel cutoff soleniod. (Tried cracking the injector lines, but they wouldnt budge)
After it started, im noticing blowby out of the missing pcv hose, which sprays out cloud 1-2 inches from the nozzle, which is about 1" wide, is this too much blowby?
Smoke, none of it on idle, but when hammer is applied itll leave a trail about 6 feet wide and 20 feet long, it looks like black smoke, not sure cause it was nighttime. Could this mean sombody turned it up a little? Also its reported that the passenger side exhaust spews more coal than the drivers, but not too much of a difference.
Rear main seal, Cracked radiator fitting, Missing pcv hose, Oil pressure light seems to have a little short in it, fades in and out. ?No horn? Starter stayed on after cranking one time, and delays in cranking before, will r&r solenoid.
Improved intake shrouding or snorkel, since its definitley a great trail truck. Radio, and some form of an interior and underhood light. You never know how much you miss it till its gone. Rear window crank. I have no clue how any of that works.
15w-40 rotella t? The visor sticker says 10w-30, not sure which oil to exactly use here.
Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 6:32 pm
kassim503, this is the NissanDiesel website.
You could probably get more and better answers to your questions here:
the Diesel Place/GM Diesel Engines/6.2L Diesel Engine
DieselTowingResource.com > Engine Discussions > 6.2 and 6.5 Diesel Engines
Posted: Thu May 21, 2009 6:57 pm
I wouldn't worry too much about the smoke until you get the old fuel run out of it. A clean air filter could help also.
As for the shutoff solenoid, it could be a sticking solenoid, or an internal leak, or an electrical problem that leaves the solenoid at least partially powered. Disconnecting the wire should test for the last one. The shutoff solenoid is on top of the IP. It is a single 1/4" blade disconnect.
Also, IIRC you can shut a Stanadyne pump down safely by restricting the return line to the tank. Again, IIRC, the solenoid does basically the same thing as pinching off the return line. Return, not supply!!
Posted: Wed May 27, 2009 6:21 am
The truck actually cleaned its act up quite a bit, radiators patched, and the oil leak is present- but nothing like i thought itd be. Im just going to leave the leak, and see how bad it flows after i change the oil.
quite the success story on purchasing this thing, I really thought shed be a terrible money pit.
Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 11:15 pm
I think the fuel filter on this truck is hooked up incorrectly? It has a outlet port on the left and right side labled OUT, and in the front there are two inlet ports labled IN. The hoses are connected through both outlet ports left and right, I think sombody hacked it up and hooked it up incorrectly. There is no way there could be a filter option that includes some crazy internal bypass thatll filter through two outlet ports right? I dont wanna go near the thing with unfiltered diesel pumping through the IP.
Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2009 9:35 pm
I've had to replace the rear window crank mechanism in a CUCV for a client, the parts were available from GM (this was, oh, January). Two parts ordering cycles, and the main casting didn't come with some internal part I needed. It was over $100 for sure. If the truck is empty of stuff, it is not too difficult to replace. The regulator does have to come out but it was fairly simple -- however, we don't get the rust you do. I have had nightmare R&R on east coast window regulators.
Your IP is probably shot. The DB2 is not long-lived, but it's very cheap for a rebuild -- $325-500. Not a lot of fun to replace, but do-able.
I'm most worried about your oil pressure light fading in and out.
Hard to say about the blowby. My '83 6.2l had almost none cold after 180k, but then we'd taken extremely good care of it since day one.
Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:20 am
So far ive just lowered the back glass and havnt raised it since, I guess its not too much of a problem, I may pick up the parts from a PaP when the time comes. Latley shes been sucking up time and money for other things (WP, Starter, Fuel filter) and shes run me a little dry.
I am gonna take a guess and say this motor has a moderate amount of blowby and the IP is probabaly roast from running bypassed, but it still starts and drives fine. Wait until it really toasts itself before replacing it.
Ive been trying to locate the oil pressure sender for a while now, there is one sender unit that has been disconnected, in the front drivers side corner of the left cyl head, but wiggling the harness puts the light out or keeps it on. Im suspecting a shaved wire grounding out, im just not sure where as of yet