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Post Number:#1  PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:12 pm 
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How do I perform the injection timing? I have the tools for this process from my VE pump equiped diesel VWs, but I don't know the procedure. I bought a manual off ebay, but it won't be here for a week and I'm aching to get it running! Is this an interference engine?

Also, Is this procedure correct?

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index ... 731AAfg6fR

especially this part:

"When the timing belt is on and in position, there should be 39 cogs between the timing mark on each of the camshaft sprocket and 48 cogs between the mark on the right camshaft sprocket and the mark on the crankshaft sprocket."

So does this mean 39 or 48 teeth between marks?

Thanks,

Don


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Post Number:#2  PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:01 am 
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I looked over the link rather quickly, and it seems like they are writing about the method to time the sprockets. You can just look at the marks on the timing belt covers to match up the sprockets.

To time the injection pump, it is more or less just like timing a VW diesel. Shoot for the most advance you can live with (noise wise) that yields the most power vs smoke. This will be somewhere in the .90 to 1.00mm range.
You will need to remove a bunch of items in order to fit the dial indicator as well, unless they make a right angle extension to fit into the injection pump.

Yes, like probably all IDI diesel engines, this is an interference engine.


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Post Number:#3  PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:56 am 
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Thanks for the reply. I have another question. What vacuum line attaches to the passenger side of the diaphragm at the top of the injection pump? (right below the mounted plastic connectors) What does this do? Also, it looks like there are 3 fuel solenoids on the pump, what are they for? One is the fuel cutoff I suppose (passenger side, bottom of pump with connector pointing up), The one above it mounted horizontally seems be a return line cutoff or something. The third one is located just rear of the #4 injector with 2 wires going into it (blk and blk/red) from the front connector of the 3 connectors mounted on top of the pump. This last one may not be a solenoid, but I don't know what it is...any ideas?

Thanks,

Don


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Post Number:#4  PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 11:34 pm 
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I am not sure about the first question about the vacuum line, post a pic if you can.

Fuel shutoff. The other sounds like the two stage housing pressure solenoid. Run it at the higher pressure mode for a little more power and fuel economy, for it allows for more timing advance across the rpm range. The last sounds like the tach signal generator/rpm sensor.


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Post Number:#5  PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 6:44 pm 
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Thanks again! I can't wait for my 800 page manual to get here!!!

How do I "Run it at the higher pressure mode"? Is there a way to adjust it?

I'm used to the old VW VE pumps. This one has a bunch of extra stuff tacked onto it.


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Post Number:#6  PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:10 pm 
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I checked how I wired my engine, and all you need to do is run a jumper from the stop solenoid to the two stage injection pump housing solenoid. Very simple.

I also looked over an NA (normally aspirated) cd17 injection pump, and that vacuum line most likely needs to connect to a filtered atmospheric air source, ie, behind an air filter. You could even use a mini air filter or some type.

If you have the atmospheric compensating type of injection pump (I think all cd17 engines do, but I am not sure), there are tons of mods you can do to that pump, especially if you fit a turbo to the engine.

Yes, the injection pumps were very well spec'd by nissan, and have a lot of features as compared to many other manufacturers. No doubt they must have cost a good amount extra too. Quite impressive actually, and allows for lots of tuning and refinement versus a standard fitted pump like what a VW has.


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Post Number:#7  PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 4:13 pm 
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I know this is rather old but I found the specs for the fuel timing belt and it specifies 23 cogs from mark on engine sprocket to pump sprocket mark.
Can anyone verify this as I am currently replacing my fuel pump tensioner


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Post Number:#8  PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:13 am 
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I just replaced my injection belt tentioner and yes, 23 cogs (Counting from the cam mark to the injection mark clockwise) is correct.


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