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Nissan diesel engines, and the people who love them
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Post Number:#1  PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 9:57 pm 
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Location: Kelowna, BC
Well I jumped into the lovely world of Rare Nissan Diesel. Where can i order the diesel injection/injector parts?
I love Diesel engine, I found this car with 185,000KM on the clock, MINT.

It is running rough, one cyl is lighting up slowly. the injector on that cyl, is leaking where it meets the block. (Blubbing and wet with diesel.)

I am hoping if I reseal it, it will run smooth again. All so I need to put a clutch in.

When you have the flywheel resurfaced on these older cars, do you need to shim the flywheel?

Now pictures.

Image Image Image

All for $500 CAD. [/code]


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Post Number:#2  PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:02 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
The man you want to reach out to is asavage. He is this forum administrator and had a couple of these things over the years.
He does not come on here that much these days as he is busy with other things but if you PM him i am sure he will respond.

I see you're from BC and not sure exactly where but if in the GVRD then perhaps a call to Fred Holmes Fuel Injection in YVR could be a good starting point.

No "shimming" of the flywheel is required.

Depending on how deep the heat cracks are in it then a simple surface grinding may be all it need.

Good luck

here is Al's contact info
profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2

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Post Number:#3  PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:55 pm 
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plenzen wrote:
Depending on how deep the heat cracks are in it then a simple surface grinding may be all it need.


Heat cracks?! Is this a common problem on these diesel engines? And what do you mean?

It me it looks like the diesel/combustion gases are coming up the threads of the injector.

I am in Kelowna, BC, Canada. I will update my profile.


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Post Number:#4  PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 7:46 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
I have a question here, even though I know nothing about these Sentra diesels, I know if my injector starts leaking, or the injector line connecting to the injector starts to leak, I tighten everything up, have you tried tightening the injector up?
By the way, anything connected to the injector needs to be loosened first before trying to tighten it/the injector.

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Post Number:#5  PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 8:19 pm 
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^that is my plan, However I am going to take it out and check the copper o-ring is there. if it is clean it up, and try my copper reseal trick that has served me well.(Heat it up as hot as you can then quickly install it. )

The PO Son took the injectors to a shop to be tested 12 month ago, they where fine. put them back in with some kind of thread sealer. He said it ran great for while (about a year.) then started running, rough. It not that bad but I like my car at 100%


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Post Number:#6  PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:27 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
Heat cracks in a flywheel of a standard transmission vehicle are common place and nothing to be concerned with unless they get too deep. Even then they may cause some chattering when you first engage the clutch.

As for the copper washers. "Annealing" them is a good course to follow.
You have most of the process correct in what you do.

Heating them to cherry red with a propane torch ( propane will not melt copper ) and then letting them air cool or plunging them into cold water is actually the best way to perform this task.

The "thread sealant" the PO did on the threads is NOT the proper way to keep the injectors from leaking combustion gasses. These injectors rely on that copper gasket that fits around the body of the injector.
Not certain if the sentra engine has "tip" gaskets or not. If they do then the old one MUST be removed and replaced with a new one and the proper torque for installing the injector must be followed.

Paul

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Post Number:#7  PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 9:57 pm 
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Location: Kelowna, BC
Thanks.

I called Fred Holmes Fuel Injection they can rebuild injectors for $50 each. Good price for a rare diesel.

I have a diesel shop in town who is willing to test them but he has no experience in rebuilding them. He said to find a different shop if they need rebuilding. (at least he is honest.)


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Post Number:#8  PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 6:54 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
box them up and send them to FH.

They will very likely send you the proper gaskets and washers etc when they return. Be careful removing the return rail nuts so as not to crack it.
Ask FH for new return rail washers as well.

Follow the torque settings when re-installing

Good luck

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Post Number:#9  PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 12:48 pm 
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Thanks. Where can I find the torque settings? I have looked around I got 50 Ft LBS, is this correct?

I know the diesel setup is a vacuum/hand prime system. Would it be bad to add a electric lift pump to this?

I have a lift pump from a GMC diesel and a Oil pressure switch.

I was thinking of adding this. The OPS would turn it off, if there was no oil pressure. (same setup my GMC diesel has.)


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Post Number:#10  PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 6:25 pm 
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I do not know the torque setting sorry.
As for the pump, as long as the suction side of the oe pump is working there there would be no need for it. Some of these little guys don't handle pressure that well. Talk to the service guy at FH and tell him what your planning to do. He/they will tell you how much they will take and if the pump your thinking of using will do any harm.

I am sure with a bit of searching you could find the torque #'s.
FH might even be able to help you with that too. .

Keep us posted.

Paul

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Post Number:#11  PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 12:49 pm 
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I finally got the time to pick the car up. (had it at a friends, had crap to deal with at home first.)

The car is a 1987 not a 1986, I have all the manuals with it, plus I found some service manuals for the car.

going for a drive today. :D


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Post Number:#12  PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 12:54 pm 
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Hopefully the service manuals will have the torque settings etc that you want.

Have fun !

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Post Number:#13  PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:27 pm 
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Location: Kelowna, BC
it was a blast to drive. Not a speed demon but fun.

The PO said the clutch going bad, but I never felt it. Works great. (still buying a kit, and putting it in. Sometime next summer.) Transmission shift sooo smooth, in all gears.

I love this thing, but so does my mom. (damn it.)


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Post Number:#14  PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:43 pm 
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Check with the PO and see if they changed the trans oil to synthetic.
If they have not then you should look at doing it.
I prefer Red Line. I know there are those that prefer Amsoil.
But,,,,,,, synthetic is a good move and worth the $$$ s
Smoother operation in the cold, nicer shifts all round.

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Post Number:#15  PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:42 pm 
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Location: Kelowna, BC
I don't drive alot, so I like SYN Oil. I will be changing all oil/fluids/filters and ALL belts. (Timing, IP, Ass belts, tensors, water pump.) I will do a compete check on the brakes. (they work good, but slide pin may need servicing.)

I go a little nuts on checks, maintenance, and what not.

Thanks.


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