Sorry, Kassim, but I pulled a Philip and accidentally edited your post, rather than replying to it. This software makes it disturbingly easy to do that, though AFAIK this is the first time I haven't caught it before saving changes.
Being a moderator has its downsides
Al S.
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Is the tensioner on the gasser (and probably diesel) motors a hydraulic unit?
I think so, yes. Certainly, the MB design that the Nissan implementation mirrors is.
ahahaha thats ok, that spring that was in the OE one seems to be low strength, probably able to hold a pound or so without collasping. Should I transplant the spring over from the OE one? I presume the spring might be there to give it a little tension as the motor starts up and oil pressure hasn't built up yet, or to hold it taut while the motor is off?
On another note, phillip how are you doing
I remember there is some MB that you can unscrew the tensioner right off the motor from the outside, a through block setup, that was remarkably smart thinking
Check out the pic,
there is a stick like object above the tensioner and the passenger side guide rail. Is that a spring or a stick? I tried zooming in but I couldnt figure out what it is, and that stick isnt listed in the description.
I know im overreacting, but the car is my only working vehicle right now and I need to get to places to live, work and food and whatnot. So I need to get this job down to a science before starting it
Im missing a spring to the tensioner, I dont wanna return the box for a new one, it might of fell out of the box or something in transit, does it sound safe to transfer the old one or is it a better bet to get a new tensioner kit?
Check out the pic,
there is a stick like object above the tensioner and the passenger side guide rail. Is that a spring or a stick? I tried zooming in but I couldnt figure out what it is, and that stick isnt listed in the description.
me thinks the "stick" is the tensioner spring. Some of these chain tensioners have a hole that you can use to lock the tensioner with a small rod or wire. From what I've seen in the FSM this one does not.
[edit]
In fact I found another picture that makes this clearer.
also, I moved this because it seemed more fitting in the LD engine forum.
steve a
97 Jetta TDI, 86 VW Golf D
89 VW Fox diesel, 92 MB 300SD W140
dlh wrote:Not sure what that is. But you definitely want to use a wedge to keep the tensioner from popping out.
never had much luck with the wedge.this is used to remove cyl head.but if your working on the cam or moving the top cam gear it can be a hassle.
last time i adjusted the cam timing i had length of rod with a broken handle at one end.the handle pushed the chain apart at the bottom holding the tensioner from falling out but the chain was loose..i have droped the tenioner inside on a few jobs.holding tension on the chain moving the crank anti clockwise with a long bar riggled the tenion back in.iv also replaced chain with out replacing guides.not good practise if its already noisey,the guide brakes up when the chain whips.
the spring need to have enough tension so the chain cant flap when cranking with low oil pressure..as a petrol engine often backfires on startup and can run on[diesel] when hot its critical that the chain cant jump teeth.late model car now mostly have a non return ratchet.
with a petrol engine adjusting cam can improove performace.i dont know that this will effect a diesel that much.
WCJR31 Skyline.3.0 manual.wagon
R31 SKYLINE/Passage GT/PINTARA
LPG Ford Falcon 99-06 93 Disco
Local Shire Southern Zone Mechanic.
