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Post Number:#31  PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:18 pm 
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This prototype has been purchased by Mark Hartz already, and we will soon be both changing his IP belt and taking step-by-step pictures of the procedure (finally!). I'll be checking fit then. But if you want to put a lump of Play-Doh on your rig's tensioner and set the cover in place, I won't stop you ;)


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Post Number:#32  PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 3:12 am 
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Location: Karuah Valley,NSW Australia
http://147.123.155.42/japandb/Foto/ASHBE-105_2.jpg

come across this listing for the bearing.
http://db.ashika.it/ashika/eng/dettArt. ... 5&fr=2482#

this is for a CA18/CA20 that is common in aust/usa.i had one here but have no LD20 in bits to test fit and look for problems.now CA engines are used in SWB 910 bluebird[810/maxima] in japan and other markets,in the listing is european diesel wagon,CA did not get exported to that part of the world in RWD just japan and australia.for some reason L and Z was preffered.

it may have been a parts interchangability with commercial/taxi fleets but for some strange reason LD28 is not listed.

i have 1 LD20T[C120] fitted with this type of tensioner.the added lever is for a tension spring.

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Post Number:#33  PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 7:53 am 
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davehoos wrote:
http://147.123.155.42/japandb/Foto/ASHBE-105_2.jpg


come across this listing for the bearing.
http://db.ashika.it/ashika/eng/dettArt. ... 5&fr=2482#


Image Image Image


On both of those, it does not look as if the relationship between the pivot hole and the adjustment hole is correct for the LD.


Quote:
i have 1 LD20T[C120] fitted with this type of tensioner.the added lever is for a tension spring.


Just to be certain: you have actually installed a tensioner with this pattern on an LD20? The adjustment slot is inches off of the OEM tensioner.


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Post Number:#34  PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 1:45 am 
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Location: Karuah Valley,NSW Australia
Quote:
Just to be certain: you have actually installed a tensioner with this pattern on an LD20? The adjustment slot is inches off of the OEM tensioner.


the tension spring is not fitted in my LD20 i forgot to add.it is fitted in the CA using the 2 bolts like the LD with the loos end pushing on the end lever .

i didnt fit the bearing.it came that way from japan as a serviced item[new belt].
I was going to or did at the begining of thread to sugest that the tensioner was a CA SOHC item.i did measure a CD20/CD17 ip pump tesioner but it has no plate.it is 32 mm high and has the same metal pulley as the original.it has a single 8 mm bolt hole on a excentric.

there is only one timing case that im aware of for LD20/LD28 only the water inlet is different.i havnt the engine easy to get at to compare with.i look over the weekend.the problem will be the belt lenght.

in australia CA20 SOHC was locally manufactured and had a local part
[probably imported by the manufacturer] so it has a different part number.the part number listed is for the japanese part and it fits the australian engine.there are 2 timing belts listed for the early engine as the australian motor has a taller block and extra teeth.

ive seen this listing before,and took for granted that it fits with out modification.LD20II use a modern excentric idea.

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Post Number:#35  PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 2:08 pm 
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asavage wrote:
But if you want to put a lump of Play-Doh on your rig's tensioner and set the cover in place, I won't stop you ;)


I'm thinkin this is what you're proposing? :lol:

Image

steve a

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Post Number:#36  PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 2:31 pm 
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You'd better have all your chores done, that's all I have to say!


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Post Number:#37  PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2007 11:01 pm 
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I ordered and received three IP belts today. Got them from RockAuto.com . I think they have the correct 20T white line marks.
Image


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Post Number:#38  PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:57 am 
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I just been up to look-
LD20T with original type tensioner is complete without tin cover.i fitted a unita gen belt when i got it,the tensioner is on the max adjustment so there is no movement left.the belt is slighty loose after it has done 2 years driving and sitting in a shed for a few years.

i have to dig up a tool at swap a CA20 tensioner,i havnt got any jap import tensioner to check for differences.

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Post Number:#39  PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 10:50 pm 
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Got the shipment of bearing axles:
Image Image Image

Damned camera didn't focus right on that last one, but you can see it's got a nice, rust-free finish. I specified "bulk shipment", but they individually seal-bagged them anyway.

I've ordered five SKF bearings today, and will be getting these axles welded to the three core brackets I have (Thanks, Matt!) RSN.

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1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.


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Post Number:#40  PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 7:16 pm 
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This might be a less expensive solution. Six month ago I changed the timing belt and tensioner assembly on my Dodge Neon. Chrysler uses a different approach. The tensioner is rigid machined steel and the roller is bolted-on to it. Only the roller is replaced. As seen in the pictures, this is a high quality HD assembly.
Here are the roller measurements:
diameter 2.45"
thickness 1.38"
hole dia. 0.40"
The factory recommended timing belt replacement interval for the Neon is 105 000 miles.
This roller might be a good candidate for a LD replacement and should last forever. There should be less machining involved. The old shaft must be removed and a 3/8" bolt in its place installed, thats all.
Image
Image
Image

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Post Number:#41  PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:02 pm 
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There's no room for a nut on the LD28 bracket. I know, I looked into it.

Possibly, one might be able to shave the head of a GR8 3/8" bolt and run it from the back fo the bracket to the above roller. I'm not sanguine about the robustness of that though.

If these tensioners are so great, why does everybody replace them when they change the timing belt? I think part of it is the possibly higher load that the valve train puts on the belt and tensioner. But you would think that a suitable double-row brg of decent quality would be a part you wouldn't have to replace, even in that duty. Yet I have seen them noticeably loose in gasser apps.

The SKF brgs I'm using are never going to need to be replaced in LD28 service, but if one needed to, it's an off-the-shelf item that isn't going to go NLA. And the welded axle is not going to deflect and does not rely upon a tension device such as a bolted assy does, to maintain perpendicularity.

Plus, I'm heavily invested in the parts, of course, so I'm biased.

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Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.


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Post Number:#42  PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 9:42 pm 
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Al, I was just pointing out a possible solution for the future. It is not a "plug & play" instruction. There is more engineering needed. Who knows, once you have all your tensioner sold, you may persue this path. :)
I do not know how long my tensioner will last. Maybe I will need one of yours pretty soon. As for the Neon pulley, it is like new. After 100 000 miles it is quiet and tight, no play whatsoever. We are talking here light duty IP belt pulley, not the timing belt. It is like with the clutch disk replacement. One always replaces the throw-out bearing, even when it is not needed.

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'84 Mercedes 190D 2.2L 5-Speed Manual purchased 06/12 SOLD 06/13
'86 Ford Escort Wagon Diesel MT Sold 07-17-08


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Post Number:#43  PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 9:02 pm 
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I want to nudge this thread to say that I am still (Jan2014) able to provide this rebuilt/modified tensioner with "lifetime" (and replaceable) bearing for $160 + $20 core + shipping, for those who want the "best". Email me if you need one. I have one or two cores here. I need around a week to put them together, because I sub out the welding.

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Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.


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 Post subject: Re: IP Belt Tensioner
Post Number:#44  PostPosted: Mon Jun 09, 2014 5:17 pm 
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Hi, I'm a new member and I have an ld28 in my boat. Seems like I need to replace my IP belt( that I have) so I am trying to find a pulley tensioner so that I have it on hand when we start working on the engine. I read that Al might have some available for sale and I'm interested. I appreciate your time, thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: IP Belt Tensioner
Post Number:#45  PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 1:15 pm 
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EZC


Best off to PM AL as he does not get on here every day.

Paul

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