WTF was Nissan Thinking with these injection pumps?

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

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DMS
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Location: Prunedale Ca. 93907
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WTF was Nissan Thinking with these injection pumps?

#1

Post by DMS »

So first 3 bolts are easy breezy no big deal. Outer most and bottom most bolt on the IP mount; easy. Then there is the other one on the bottom that connects the re-reinforcement bracket that is also easy. Then there is that one MOFO on the back side that hugs the block. This is DAY 2 second try at that 12mm nut! I wish I was working on a mid 70's Ford at this point :evil:. I would have at least expected a non-sense position on a bolt in that case. I guess the good news is that it isnt a grease bomb domestic like Ford though. Id be spliting knuckles too then.

I have a good assortment of tools(not the best but more than the average joe). and I still cannot get that stupid nut off. I can get a short 6 point socket on the thing, but cannot get any size/combination of extensions or ratchet anywhere near where I need it to go. A wrench will not work down there either.

I thought about using a crows foot, but then I still have the extension problem. Then I would have to HOPE that the crows foot I have has the correct angle to get on there too. FSM says remove nuts... thats it. LAME

GRRRRRRRR

Suck on my you know whats TWO TIMES Nissan! I could strangle the squinty eyed idiot that thought this one up! He must have taken some American engineering lessons or something.

Im going to laugh if you guys tell me there is a special tool for this thing... Cause you know one more specialized tool that is NLA is just what this car needs. Bad enough I cannot accurately time the pump without the dial gauge.


Its not even like Ive never done this either. The last time though I had a LD28 motor on a stand with most of the accessories off so I could put a long extension in.

Im really trying to not pull the oil switch and filter off, but Im think Im going to have to and still fight it.

Someone please clue me in here.
Ray
rlaggren
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Location: San Francisco

#2

Post by rlaggren »

Ooooh! That was GOOD. Nothing like sincere heartfelt rant to clear the tubes. <GG>

But I can't help you - haven't been there. My only thought is one of those super box wrenches where the box is ratcheting. Or maybe I got the wrong idea of angles...

If you weld (pretty good) you could make a 12 point offset box (like a crows foot) - bend the 90 right at the box, cut the "handle" off where you want and weld on a 1/4 or 3/8 extension; if you're sure it'll work, do it to a ratcheting box. Grind the outside of the box down as needed if there's a clearance problem at the nut. Flea market is your friend.

I take you're sure that's the right nut? <g> Don't want no suicides on this forum.

Best luck. Rufus
82 Maxima wagon
DMS
Posts: 117
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Location: Prunedale Ca. 93907
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#3

Post by DMS »

rlaggren wrote:Ooooh! That was GOOD. Nothing like sincere heartfelt rant to clear the tubes. <GG>

But I can't help you - haven't been there. My only thought is one of those super box wrenches where the box is ratcheting. Or maybe I got the wrong idea of angles...

If you weld (pretty good) you could make a 12 point offset box (like a crows foot) - bend the 90 right at the box, cut the "handle" off where you want and weld on a 1/4 or 3/8 extension; if you're sure it'll work, do it to a ratcheting box. Grind the outside of the box down as needed if there's a clearance problem at the nut. Flea market is your friend.

I take you're sure that's the right nut? <g> Don't want no suicides on this forum.

Best luck. Rufus

Sorry 2 days of pent up anger on this one.
Yeah its the correct nut. You cant really get any kind of wrench in there. There is no swing room to loosen the nut up. I even tried removing things so that Id have more access from the top, but not much luck.

Ive been feeding sockets and extensions through one at a time with a stick grappler and a pen magnet with not much success, oh and a LED flash light to light the way too. Having sockets and extensions constantly falling out and hitting me on the head and eye over and over doesnt help either with the anger.

not going to kill myself over this one though so no worries. Was nice though to get the anger out. Anyone that has tried to adjust the IP timing must know my angst.
Ray
diesel-man
Deceased
Posts: 150
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Elkton, MD

#4

Post by diesel-man »

I replaced an injection pump on my brothers car 2+ years ago (pump leaked)...it was a ***** bad job. I had to take the motor mount out to get the pump out of the way. I had taken the water inlet off and a bunch of other stuff...don't remember what in all I did, but I made it.

It was easy going down the assembly line. Sorry I couldn't be more help...I seem to remember having a wrench that was shaped like a horse shoe, or crescent?
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dieseldorf
Posts: 192
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Location: Oracle, AZ

#5

Post by dieseldorf »

As I remember I did it with two or three socket extensions, the flexible type.
You don't need to remove the nut, just loosen it. Eventually use 1/4" sockets and extensions.
Astro Van with LD28 propulsion
'84 Mercedes 190D 2.2L 5-Speed Manual purchased 06/12 SOLD 06/13
'86 Ford Escort Wagon Diesel MT Sold 07-17-08
Carimbo
Posts: 467
Joined: 18 years ago

#6

Post by Carimbo »

Al S. removed one from a wagon in a JY a few years ago. He called me from there in the middle of the process, asking me to take a look in the FSM to verify it could be removed. He probably did not have too many specialty tools there at the JY. As I recall, he slid it rearwards, and extracted it with the injection lines still connected (isn't this how the FSM recommends?). Maybe he removed the PS pump.

Sorry, this probably wasn't much help. Have you made any progress?
DMS
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Location: Prunedale Ca. 93907
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#7

Post by DMS »

Finally got it that day. Spent a long time getting that one loose. I have to carefully maneuver extensions and swivels back between the pump and the block. I was able to get it from the top side back behind the engine mount but before the oil filter.

Huge pain the rear.

Thanks for the help guys.
Ray
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240ZD
Posts: 103
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Location: Longview, WA

#8

Post by 240ZD »

Ya I took that one off once, but I can't remember how I finally got it. My brain has wiped the experience from my memory for sanity's sake. All I remember now is several hours that were a red blur of anger, and a herculean amount of willpower trying to remain calm, and I think I even screamed at the nut a few times.

Trying to put it back on was worse, and to this day I have not been able to replace that nut. I have tried several times to but it back on, with no success. It's still there, in my box O' parts, ready, waiting, for the next time I feel the urge to inflict a few lasting scars on my knuckles and psyche.
"Man, your engine is knocking really bad..."~
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asavage
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#9

Post by asavage »

Ray, now you know why I never attempted to re-time that engine!

Caxambu has it right: at the JY, on an '81 Wagon, I just followed the FSM instructions. 1/4" socket/extension/u-joint and driver. Unbolting it wasn't the issue, it was *knowing* that it could be taken out without jacking up the engine. That's why I called Caxambu for verification, because it sure didn't look like it could be removed once unbolted. But it did, just barely, clear the subframe, mounts, and suspension to come out of the car.

I must have gotten lucky (?), because I don't recall having an especially bad time removing the third nut retaining the IP to the front adapter housing.

Again, that was an '81 Wagon, but the '82 is substantially the same.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
windsock
Posts: 144
Joined: 15 years ago

#10

Post by windsock »

I undid this nut the other day too. I went in from the top of the engine. I used a 3/8 socket set with extension on the socket and a flexi on the extension. This took me to the back end of the IP. I used a small thin cable-tie (zip-tie down here in Southern hemisphere) around the socket to enable positioning and used my left hand to push the socket on once held in the likely spot. Once it was on I was able to attach the ratchet and loosen, reposition IP and tighten it all up inside of a couple of hours.

Fiddly yes, difficult, yes but that zip-tie made it sweatless. Smaller hands would have helped a lot when attaching ratchet down through the fuel tubes. Undid one click at a time on the ratchet.

Two key 'accessories' in my toolbox get used a lot - duct tape and zip ties. :D

Cheers,

Phil

PS, Hey Al, good to see you back. I got the impression i hadn't seen you around for a while. I was thinking it was related to a move/relocation you did a while back. I hope all is well...
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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