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Post Number:#1  PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:53 am 
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Hello all,
Obviously, I'm new here, but i have done my fair share of reading and searching...
I have a LD28 pulled from someone else's project Ford ranger.
I bought it for $600 with ranger, motor/5spd trans, and 6x10 trailer to haul the cab.
Sold the ranger minus motor/trans for $250, and trailer for $350
Broke even with a free motor/trans!
Supposedly the engine has 185k on it.
I have it set up to bench start, and have read MANY posts about starting issues.
At this point i need some clarification of HOW MUCH fuel should come out of the fuel lines, that are loosened, when i crank it over?
Im wondering if my IP is in need of repair, I'm hoping not.
I have 12V to the fuel stop solenoid, I've bled the filter till fuel came out of the return line.
Thanks in advance,

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LD28 pulled out of someone's Ford Ranger project, (they didn't complete), for my 1946 Ford 1-Ton Rat Rod project


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Post Number:#2  PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:36 pm 
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Location: Peyton Colorado
Welcome!! Not having ever performed this procedure, but taking a logical guess, I would think that slightly loosening a line, and cranking the engine, I would stop as soon as I saw the wet fuel, so that wouldn't be very much.

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Post Number:#3  PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:45 pm 
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Thanks.
Kind of what my guess was.
Well, today I pulled the GP's and cranked it. Fuel came out of the GP holes. I assume I'm getting fuel.
So, now I think my timing may be off.
Checked that with information from this forum, and it's right on as far as I can tell. I couldn't see a mark on the ring gear by the starter, but the belt looks used, and I'm assuming it ran when pulled form the previous car.
So, still no start...
I'm kind of stuck here.
I'll be putting the new glow plugs in tomorrow, and how that works.
Another thing, I do have a leak in the ip when I prime it till it's tight.
Would that cause much issue?

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LD28 pulled out of someone's Ford Ranger project, (they didn't complete), for my 1946 Ford 1-Ton Rat Rod project


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Post Number:#4  PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:51 am 
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Location: Peyton Colorado
Sounds like way too much fuel if coming out the glow plug ports. I would wait a few days and let that excess fuel drain off before a start try. And turn off the fuel delivery then crank until no fuel coming out the glow plug ports. Cylinders filled with diesel could damage parts when cranking! Unless someone messed around with the timing, should still be Ok, glow plugs have to work for a start up. A "small" IP leak shouldn't prevent a start, but needs to be fixed of course.

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Post Number:#5  PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:53 am 
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Ok, just to clarify, when I said fuel was coming out, I meant more of a mist.
But, I'll try again when the weather gets above 14°f as it is today....

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LD28 pulled out of someone's Ford Ranger project, (they didn't complete), for my 1946 Ford 1-Ton Rat Rod project


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Post Number:#6  PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:08 pm 
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What to expect out of the injector hard lines when cranking? Little spurts, less than a drop out of an eyedropper (for example) each time. Think about it, how much fuel does the engine consume at idle?

TIP: to help start an old engine that has been sitting several years-- Squirt approx. 1/4 teaspoon motor oil in each GP hole (while you have them out)(or injector hole if you have them out) before trying to start it. Helps seal the rings to create sufficient compression to get it started.

I had an IDI that had sat for a few years. Tried for several days to get it started. No go. Squirted some motor oil in each hole, fastened everything back up, started immediately with conviction! Started so quickly it scared us!

Make sure your battery/cables/connections and starter are healthy enough to crank the engine fast enough. Slow cranking won't get it started in situations like this.


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Post Number:#7  PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:57 pm 
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Thanks Carimdo, that's what I'm seeing out of the injector lines, So that's good!
Battery is brand new, 850 CCA, cables and starter are good.
I'll try the motor oil since I'll be installing new gp's in it.
I'll keep you all up to date on what happens.
If I still get no start, what would be my next course of action?
Thanks in advance,

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LD28 pulled out of someone's Ford Ranger project, (they didn't complete), for my 1946 Ford 1-Ton Rat Rod project


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Post Number:#8  PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:11 pm 
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Finally! i got it started!
i did add the oil to the cylinders as Carimdo suggested, but it still didnt start.
I keep glowing and cranking and glowing and cranking, letting the starter cool of in the middle.
It finally started to catch.
Then more cranking, and boom it started!
NOw it starts a lot easier.
I'll be trying again tomorrow, to see if it was just a sitting too long issue.
Thanks all!

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Post Number:#9  PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 4:37 pm 
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Hooray! Maybe sitting and air pockets? Should do much better now.

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Post Number:#10  PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 5:28 pm 
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probably.
Now my next questions.
Which maybe should be a new thread...
Trying to figure out how to bypass the heater core and where the hose on the drivers side, rear of motor goes.
And can i bypass the vac pump?
Is the vac pump in line with oil flow, or auxiliary, as in, could i block the hoses that go to and from it?
Thanks, and let me know if this should be a new thread.

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LD28 pulled out of someone's Ford Ranger project, (they didn't complete), for my 1946 Ford 1-Ton Rat Rod project


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Post Number:#11  PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 7:50 pm 
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I did some searching, looks like the house on the drivers side lower on the motor is the water drain for a marine engine.
Is
Can this be capped or plugged?
I don't need to drain water from it, do I?

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Post Number:#12  PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 11:12 am 
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Great news about getting it started!

Vacuum pump used for auto trans shifting, and power brakes. Will you be needing any of that in the new application?

If you delete the vac pump, you could plug the oil source at the block and return fitting below.


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Post Number:#13  PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 12:03 pm 
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That's the answer I was looking for.
I'll have manual brakes, and a 5 speed manual.
I'll just pull the vac pump off the back to relieve extra stress on the motor, not that it's much...

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