kassim503 wrote:Wp finally arrived, I had no studs or bolts so I went down to the store for some studs, didnt carry them, so I took some 6m bolts, nylon locking nuts and lock washers and took it all home (no grippy style nuts). I threadlocker red'ed the bolts in a way it becomes like studs. Is this a acceptable way to fasten the assy down?
It's better than nothing, but . . .
Also would the nylon in the nuts melt and come out of the nut due to the heat?
No. However, nylock nuts are not really designed for temperatures much above ambient (ie 130°F).
Also one last thing, is it wise to use both a nylon nut and a spring type lockwasher?
I've done it. It's OK. The split lock washer will do the work in that case.
What you want is Dorman 23743
, available anywhere Dorman products are sold, which definitely includes NAPA around here.
This is a very common parts kit. I'm surprised your parts store didn't have it. It's $3 at RockAuto.com, so it's probably $4.50 locally. Well worth the money. Yes, use Lock-Tite, blue or red is fine. Notice no serrated-flange nuts in that kit. Personally, I'll use std 6mm nut + split lock washer and call it good. I don't need no steekin' fancy-schmancy serrated-flange nuts
See how the studs get "fat" in the center? When tightened, the swollen part wedges into the mounting flange. The more you tighten the serrated nut, the more it wedges.
Conversely, the setup you are thinking about using self-loosens, when you tighten what you're substituting for the serrated nut. I know, you'll make sure the nylock nut is tight, but there isn't any good way to know that the shaft didn't back out the backside when you're tightening the nut.
If you must
use bolts like this, use split lock washers under the bolt heads. It's not a guarantee that the bolts won't back off when you tighten the nuts, but it's a start. If you "stripped out" the threaded holes and just through-bolted, you'd actually be in better shape -- not that I recommend that! Buy the stud kit!