Small overheating problem

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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kassim503
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Location: Stony Brook, NY

#136

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

asavage wrote:I can get you the part Nos. for the shroud. Heat shield? Hood blanket?
You are a lifesaver, yeah hood blanket, I couldnt think about the real name of it after looking under the hood. Also I need new hood blanket snap connectors- im missing something like 10 of them. Ill take all the damaged stuff out of the car tommroow, get a idea of how bad things got down there, and try to pound the hood back- laboring over body work on labor day.

Ill try the number tommorow or tonight, it is a 1-800 number so it might be a 24/7 deal
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#137

Post by asavage » 14 years ago

kassim503 wrote:You are a lifesaver, yeah hood blanket, I couldnt think about the real name of it after looking under the hood. Also I need new hood blanket snap connectors- im missing something like 10 of them.
Insulator - Hood, 65840-W2401, $77 :shock:

Clip - Hood Insulator, 65832-F5000, $1.26 ea (15 req'd)

Shroud Assy. - Radiator (same for all Maximas, regardless of engine), 21475-F5400, $42. It's the upper and the lower, no separate part Nos. for them.
Ill try the number tommorow or tonight, it is a 1-800 number so it might be a 24/7 deal
I refuse to do commerce on a federal holiday. And some of the stiffs who do work on holidays, aren't even getting Holiday or overtime pay. It stinks.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#138

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

asavage wrote: Insulator - Hood, 65840-W2401, $77 :shock:
WHERES THE TAPE?!?!?!? lol, well its got a hole, that means I gotta change it or watch my paint peel (maaaaaaaaaaaaco)
asavage wrote: I refuse to do commerce on a federal holiday. And some of the stiffs who do work on holidays, aren't even getting Holiday or overtime pay. It stinks.
My gosh ur right- pre 9/11 I used to get stuck with holidays at work no extra holiday pay besides extra cookies. Ill help them by not calling until tuesday, it sucks to work a holiday, especially the summer sendoff.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#139

Post by asavage » 14 years ago

I don't usually mind working a Holiday -- if it's my choice, and there's an incentive involved. But to work for straight time, or to have to -- I think that's wrong.

Everybody deserves a day to participate in Community. I'm old enough to remember when Sunday was a day of rest.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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kassim503
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Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#140

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

I rembered that I need the nuts that hold down the fan, they dont come with the WP, only the studs come with that. They need a 10 mm wrench to move them, im not sure what the thread size is. Where can I get these? I cant use normal metric nuts for these right? I think they have special anti-backout washers intergrated into the nut, so the nut dosent back out- duhh :)

Also it has become apparant to me that nearly every panel on this car has some kind of mistake on it- the fan took out the only clean panel left on this car- the hood. So if anybody gets wind of a maxi getting parted out around PA,NY,NJ- message me, ill glady go over there and take everything


Edit- the front passenger fender is clean :D :D :D there's some good news!
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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philip
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Location: Southern California, USA

#141

Post by philip » 14 years ago

kassim503 wrote:I rembered that I need the nuts that hold down the fan, they dont come with the WP, only the studs come with that. They need a 10 mm wrench to move them, im not sure what the thread size is. Where can I get these? I cant use normal metric nuts for these right? I think they have special anti-backout washers intergrated into the nut, so the nut dosent back out- duhh :)
Odds are the nuts are 6x1mm (thread diameter/pitch). DO go to a hardware store and get flanged nuts. Looks like an integrated nut/washer combination. No other washer required. These will have little grippy serrations where the flange meets the part.
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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kassim503
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#142

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

unfortunatley, after calling the 1-800 # for the radiator, the radiator would have run me 230 bucks and it would only be a 2 row instead of the 3 row that came with the car. I could get a 3 row but for 250, $250 is kinda out of my budget so I got a summit racing brand universal rad for 170- 2 row alumnium, which should be a little better than a 3 row copper. should be here thursday evening, so ill see how it goes then
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
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Location: Stony Brook, NY

#143

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Wp finally arrived, I had no studs or bolts so I went down to the store for some studs, didnt carry them, so I took some 6m bolts, nylon locking nuts and lock washers and took it all home (no grippy style nuts). I threadlocker red'ed the bolts in a way it becomes like studs. Is this a acceptable way to fasten the assy down? I dont recall ever doing this before.

Also would the nylon in the nuts melt and come out of the nut due to the heat? No right? I dont think the wp shaft gets that hot, but then again I never really felt the WP shaft when the engine is hot. Also one last thing, is it wise to use both a nylon nut and a spring type lockwasher?

I defintiley do not have the time or the budget to lose another radiator, so im making sure this fan dosent come off.

For details on my setup, see pic below
Image

if the pic causes horozontal scrolling tell me so i can make it smaller
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#144

Post by asavage » 14 years ago

kassim503 wrote:Wp finally arrived, I had no studs or bolts so I went down to the store for some studs, didnt carry them, so I took some 6m bolts, nylon locking nuts and lock washers and took it all home (no grippy style nuts). I threadlocker red'ed the bolts in a way it becomes like studs. Is this a acceptable way to fasten the assy down?
It's better than nothing, but . . .
Also would the nylon in the nuts melt and come out of the nut due to the heat?
No. However, nylock nuts are not really designed for temperatures much above ambient (ie 130°F).
Also one last thing, is it wise to use both a nylon nut and a spring type lockwasher?
I've done it. It's OK. The split lock washer will do the work in that case.

What you want is Dorman 23743, available anywhere Dorman products are sold, which definitely includes NAPA around here.
Image
This is a very common parts kit. I'm surprised your parts store didn't have it. It's $3 at RockAuto.com, so it's probably $4.50 locally. Well worth the money. Yes, use Lock-Tite, blue or red is fine. Notice no serrated-flange nuts in that kit. Personally, I'll use std 6mm nut + split lock washer and call it good. I don't need no steekin' fancy-schmancy serrated-flange nuts :lol:

See how the studs get "fat" in the center? When tightened, the swollen part wedges into the mounting flange. The more you tighten the serrated nut, the more it wedges.

Conversely, the setup you are thinking about using self-loosens, when you tighten what you're substituting for the serrated nut. I know, you'll make sure the nylock nut is tight, but there isn't any good way to know that the shaft didn't back out the backside when you're tightening the nut.

If you must use bolts like this, use split lock washers under the bolt heads. It's not a guarantee that the bolts won't back off when you tighten the nuts, but it's a start. If you "stripped out" the threaded holes and just through-bolted, you'd actually be in better shape -- not that I recommend that! Buy the stud kit!
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#145

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

I tried looking for the stud kit at my local NAPA location, didnt stock both the stud kit for metric or SAE, surprisng huh. Mabye ill try one of the chain stores.

Off/On topic, Isnt threadlocker red the kind where you cant ever crack the bolts back open? Becuase I just took the bolts off the WP, and the threadlockers been drying for a good 4-5 hours. And I didnt use much force either :?:
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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asavage
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#146

Post by asavage » 14 years ago

I don't know about knock-offs, but the Lock-Tite (Permatex) product is an anaerobic sealant, which means that it cures only in the absence of oxygen (which is why a puddle of it never dries, and also why you can't transfer it to another container: the OEM container is gas-permeable). It doesn't cure by evaporating solvents, as does paint or most glues. Therefore, it does take some time to "set", and like almost all adhesives you have to have an oil-free surface. If you didn't spray the threads with either Permatex's primer/activator, or at least something like Brak-Kleen or equivalent, it'll never adhere to the threads, even if it does harden.

Also, though Red is their toughest product, all Lock-Tite can be reduced to pretty much useless by high temperatures, which is why it's useless on, say, header bolts. Get it above 450° and it just melts.

On the stud kit: ask for it by Balkamp part number, which is what plugging the Dorman number in as a "non-NAPA-part" number got me. For example, I tried looking for a stud kit on the napaonline site just now, for "stud" or "water pump", and got nowhere -- and I know NAPA. But they do sell it. Balkamp (BK 6051349), $4.29 . You just have to work the system.

Image

Call a NAPA, ask if they have a Balkamp 6051349 in stock.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#147

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Hmm, installing a universal radiator is proving to be quite difficult. Well it should be because its not bolt on. The radiator is cool looking with a billet radiator cap flange, anodized blue (couldnt care less). I got the mounting down so no worries about that, but my real problem is the lower hose and what fan assy I want to run.
Im seriously considering a electric fan, with some kind of speed control unit intergrated thats also connected to the a/c clutch so it can turn on when my a/c turns on. Any suggestions? has any one brand shown thru with the goodness? Im trying to get something that will pull the most cfm for the least amperage, I only have a 60A stock alternator and I do not wish to upgrade to 100A.

Also one last question, do "they" sell some kind of flexible rad hose? Well more flexable than the normal kind, mabye something that you can bend up with some kind of spring in the middle to hold it in place? I almost got it with a hose I bought, but it rubs the alternator oh so slightly.

Image
It makes the engine bay gleam!
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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Location: Stony Brook, NY

#148

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

oh and I got the stud kit.

Also the napa site yielded this

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... olant+Hose
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
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Location: Stony Brook, NY

#149

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Radiator is in, took it for a drive ( no fan ), Ran great. Just couldnt idle. My mind is made up on the electric fan, and I will do it. Turns out electric fans got much better scince the last time I used one- that was over 10 years ago.

I see a fan on ebay, its a pusher, made by flex a lite. It looks just like the low profile series that they offer, and the blades are pitched in the same direction. On the flex a lite website it lists one motor for both the fans and one puller and one pusher blade. Who thinks I can just get this fan, order the puller blades from FAL and swap the blades over, making it a puller? I like this fan because it does 2500 cfm which should be good for my 2.4, also it comes with a thermostat and a/c relay with free wiring.

Also there is a fan that is fatter, needing 4.25 inches of space, which will blow a insane amount of air as well but I only have something like 4 inches of room so im probably going to drift away from that fan
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
Posts: 1027
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Stony Brook, NY

#150

Post by kassim503 » 14 years ago

Update

The radiator is well worth the mods needed, I towed a car carrier with junk in the back at highway speed w/o the thermostat (need "reserve" cooling when stopped) and the car was surprisngly cold- especially for towing about 1000-1500 lbs of junk, gauge went a little above the bottom line, sometimes up to 1/4 up. I like I like :D

And no im not bypassing any lines or special stuff by removing the t stat except for the throttle body heater and recirulation line from t stat housing to coolant inlet on the engine, which only provides minimal flow in the system to open the thermostat on que.

I ordered these wonderful fans, should be here thursday. I spend 250 bucks on them they better work well. Also the better look very cool :) like anybodys looking.

Jegs.com PN 400-210

Also I recently noticed that the water pump pulley is slightly bent, there is no seperation at the base of the pulley or anything, its just slightly bent. Is this going to be a problem down the line? cause if it is ill grab another pulley from the jy. Mabye the bending from moving the pulleys position is going to weaken the joint or something? slight imbalance?


Arent the fans so cool? Its the 3rd most expensive thing I spent on the car.

Only thing that I dont like is that ricers love them, and I do not love being like a ricer.

well at least they are not bright yellow or flourescent red :lol:
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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