Small overheating problem

General information about the first-generation Nissan Maxima in the US. What was the Datsun 810 became the luxury leader Maxima in the US in 1981.

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asavage
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#196

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

kassim503 wrote:. . . jb weld a bolt onto the top of the stud . . .
Doubtful that will work. JB Weld is great for pieces that are bonded where the loads are lateral; straight tension loads are not so hot.
On the distributor, I think I saw two sets of bolts, one for mounting, and the other for timing, it seems like I can remove the two lower mounting bolts and remove the distribtor without messing with the timing. Am I right on this?

Yes . . . but you will have to crayon (mark somehow) the rotor position and make certain that when you re-insert the distributor into the timing cover, the rotor is in exactly the same position.
On the side- whats your favorite method for patching a crack in the air intake hose? Im gonna RTV my intake hose back together for a temporary fix . . .
If you remove all traces of oil, RTV works well temporarily.

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#197

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

Cranked out work on the car, pulled the manifold and intake after noticing loose bolts on both the intake and reallly lose bolts on the exhaust manifold. Didnt resurface the exhaust manifold, it was actually straight :shock:, it was loose to the point where the bolts should of fallen out, and I guess the only one i saw leaking was the #1. Saved me the hassle of seperating the egr tube. Got a new intake gasket and y pipe gasket, which the FLAPS actually had in stock, my luck must be through the roof, whats the chances of them actually stocking a gasket that probably has only been sold once or twice in a decade.\

Put the whole assy back together, and tightened the bolts to the best of my ability, but I know it cant be sufficent, all I had that would fit the 12MM bolts is a stubby wrench. I gotta get/find my 12 standard wrench and find out what the fsm reccomends for torquing, and tighten them to spec. Didnt start the car yet, but I think this might be the reason for the poor hot idle and the noise should go away (didnt put the intake hose back on, felt it was too cold out for me and the hose). I also have to drill out the exhaust manifold stud, but thats for another day, and I could do it with the manifolds on the car.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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kassim503
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#198

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

cars is hush hush, to a level I have never seen before! Im considering chopping the exhaust and welding a resonator in there, it sounds like I trapped a 200 lb bumble bee in my trunk around 2k rpm.

Also, the rough idle and running hot is gone, that was expected.

Im searching for a OEM intake hose/bellow, probably gonna make one up with 2 45 degree bends and some connectors from the hardware store. Cant seem to find one on the internet or at the FLAPS, and it probably costs way more than id ever spend on something so simple.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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#199

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

The intake hose has to be s-u-p-p-l-e. You can't use rigid pieces and expect it to live. It flexes with the engine and also damps engine vibrations from reaching the chassis.

Have you seen some of the stuff Philip has posted?

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#200

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

FYI- correct name for the Thermal Vacuum valve is a ported vacuum switch.

I dont remember reading Phillip's posts over the air intake, I did a search on the sd2x diesels side and looked at a couple of threads that came up, im tired, ill find it in the morning.

I may go the JY and try to find one off of a common car that can fit and order a new one, im due for a JY run :D Ill take a careful look at the 80's and 90's fords with the twin rubber hoses that stretch for miles, they may be able to be chopped and retrofitted.

Ive did brief searches thru google on self made air intakes, some where good ideas, some where dismal displays of poor workmanship.

Ive ruled out a few things, making a solid chrome pipe with 2 45 degree bends on one pipe in there, bad idea due to flexing, I want a bellow somewhere in there. Also, no ABS tubing, thats just horrible. And no bright blue connectors, anything but that!

This is a good idea, run sections of steel tubing between angular pieces of silicone, helps spread out the flex, only thing is it comes in wacky colors and I think the MAF has a 3 inch connector, NG.

Ill try the jy first, either try the ford hoses or try to find a new car with a isolated bellow and incorporate it in the intake, like ferrari does, or win the lottery so I can purchase a Ferrari just so I can use the intake bellow off of it. :lol:

I am unsure about the usage of the woven straight hoses as connectors, but they may help for this job, they flex a little, dont crack all that easisily, and resist oil and heat.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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#201

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

kassim503 wrote:FYI- correct name for the Thermal Vacuum valve is a ported vacuum switch.
It's incorrect to say that PVS is the "correct" name for that TVV. Different mfgrs use different ways to describe their wares. It's a conspiracy.

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#202

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

It's incorrect to say that PVS is the "correct" name for that TVV. Different mfgrs use different ways to describe their wares. It's a conspiracy.
true, true
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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#203

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

just wondering, has any of you gasser guys that ever took off the exhaust manifold been able to get a socket and ratchet with a extension to the manifold bolts under the intake?

It looks doable from pictures of the manifold but I cant seem to be able to get to the bolts.

[edit] update on the intake hose, they are available from nismoparts.com for 45 bucks, not too bad for a brand new hard to find part. PN is 16578-w3200.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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#204

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

Since this really dosent warranting starting another thread, and this thread seems to be a base for all of my difficulties, ill post it in here.

Does the dome light turn itself off? I think it does, but I cant recall if it did. I opened and closed the door yesterday, and when I returned I noticed the dome light was on overnight. I may have left it on when manually turning it on a few days ago, but IIRC the dome light turns off when you open and close the door, regardless if it was manually turned on or off. Also I think the dome light may turn itself off after a set time after turning it on automatically.

Im thinking a possible bad dome light controller, if it does turn off automatically.

It also turns on and off manually fine, and turns on after opening the door.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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#205

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

I'm not sure about 1983, but 1982 has a room timer that keeps the dome lights on for about five seconds (?) after all doors are shut, unless the key is turned on -- when the dome light is turned off immediately.

AFAIK, the dome light will never turn itself off if a door switch is active (door is sensed to be open). If a door is misadjusted, or even if the car is "loose" and parked oddly, say with one wheel up on a curb or in a hole, one door switch may not be opening with the door seemingly closed.

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#206

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

Did further testing today, when manually turning the light on (pressing the dome light) it will stay on forever. Also the dome light does dim after about 5 seconds after closing the door.

A good point that I wasnt thinking of is my doors, some are a bit loose, I should just set them correctly regardless of this problem or not. But when I closed the doors, the door panel lights turned off, but was working on its own schedule. Ill flip thru some of the pages of the fsm again to see if I may have a bad dome light controller.

On a side note, does anybody have a 83 fsm where some of the electrical schematics in the 2nd half of the electrical section printed upside down? The titles read right side up, but the descriptions in the schematics are upside down
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

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#207

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

kassim503 wrote:On a side note, does anybody have a 83 fsm where some of the electrical schematics in the 2nd half of the electrical section printed upside down? The titles read right side up, but the descriptions in the schematics are upside down
Can you site any page Nos.? Or are you talking about the fold-out at the back?

I have several 1983 FSMs I can check.

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#208

Post by kassim503 » 12 years ago

EL-67, Gauges and warning lamps, El-73, warning lamps, EL- 76+77,

El-81, That one has alot of upside down stuff, enough upside down stuff for one day

Fold outs are right side up
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

227K SOLD 6/7/2012

Carimbo
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#209

Post by Carimbo » 12 years ago

There was a period when my dome light often would momentarily flash, esp. when accelerating sharply from a stop. Just the dome light on the ceiling, not the lights at the bottom rear of the door panels. Was the pass. front door that needed to be adjusted a bit tighter. The striker plates on the door jambs have a plastic sleeve around the rod that the door latches to. The plastic sleeve deteriorates/wears a groove/disappears, allowing the door to not close as tightly as before.

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#210

Post by asavage » 12 years ago

kassim503 wrote:EL-67, Gauges and warning lamps, El-73, warning lamps, EL- 76+77,
Yeah, OK, they're upside down, I guess.

The pages are laid out to be read from the side, but I can see that it would make more sense if the text was rotated 180°.

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