Parts Availability - G1 Maxima

[83_maxima]

It appears that the temp sensor is affecting the time the sysem stays active. Would it be advisable to disconnect the temp sensor, or would the system glow indefinitely?

I never heard the relay click off after the light went out with the sensor disconnected.

[asavage]

My 1982 Wagon's prodate is 6/82 .

[glenlloyd]

It appears that the temp sensor is affecting the time the sysem stays active. Would it be advisable to disconnect the temp sensor, or would the system glow indefinitely?

I never heard the relay click off after the light went out with the sensor disconnected.

The relay makes a definite clunk when it goes off, you should be able to hear it. On my 82 this happens a few seconds after the light goes out. I wait for the clunk before I try to start but I don't know if that's about 10 seconds or not. I think it happens before then, which IMO is too soon.

If you're not getting a clunk at all then something's wrong.

steve a

[83_maxima]

It appears that the temp sensor is affecting the time the sysem stays active. Would it be advisable to disconnect the temp sensor, or would the system glow indefinitely?

I never heard the relay click off after the light went out with the sensor disconnected.

The relay makes a definite clunk when it goes off, you should be able to hear it. On my 82 this happens a few seconds after the light goes out. I wait for the clunk before I try to start but I don't know if that's about 10 seconds or not. I think it happens before then, which IMO is too soon.

If you're not getting a clunk at all then something's wrong.

steve a

The relay clunks OFF shortly after the light goes out (after 4 secs) with the temp sensor connected. I did not hear it ever clunk OFF after the light went out when I had the sensor disconnected.

This makes me wonder if the unplugged sensor is keeping the glow plugs on indefinitely?

[glenlloyd]

Ben
I moved this to Gen 1 Maxi because of the GP system focus.

I'm not sure if the plugs glow indefinitely when the sensor is unhooked or not. I would try using without the CT sensor and see when/if the relay clunk happens. I would wait at least 25 seconds before shutting the key off.

Al may know whether the plugs glow indefinitely when disconnected from the CT sensor.

steve a

[83_maxima]

I re-connected the factory system and tried it with the CT sensor connected and disconnected.

With the sensor connected, the light goes out in a couple of seconds (partially warm engine) no clunk. Waited approx. 90 seconds.

With the sensor dis-connected, the light goes out in about 7 seconds, and the #2 relay and GPC clunk (what I deem to be OFF) in about 45 seconds, then the car will start right up.

I need to verify that the plugs are turning off after that 45 sec period, but this bypass may allow me to use the stock system.

[83_maxima]

After the engine cooled down a little more, I tested at the GPC at the wires for the #1 and #2 relays.

CTS connected: #1 relay on (11.53v) for approx 10 seconds, then afterglows (11.5v) indefinitely. Will not start after this.

CTS dis-connected: #1 relay on (11.5v) for approx 45 seconds, then afterglows (11.5v) indefinitely. Will not start after this. Cycled 3 times, still no start.

It would start when warmer after 1 cycle with the sensor dis-connected. Maybe the plugs aren't glowing ENOUGH with the factory system.

[glenlloyd]

Ben
Based on commentary in another post related to GP operation here I would say that leaving the CTS unplugged may run the GPs continuously...which is a bad thing.

Steve a

[asavage]

With the sensor connected, the light goes out in a couple of seconds (partially warm engine) no clunk. Waited approx. 90 seconds.

You can't test anything with a partially-warmed engine. The GPC is known to not glow in that circumstance. The WTS lamp will light for anywhere from .5 to two seconds on a warm engine, but the GP relay never fires (and you won't here the thunk when it drops out, because it never came on).

[asavage]

After the engine cooled down a little more, I tested at the GPC at the wires for the #1 and #2 relays.

CTS connected: #1 relay on (11.53v) for approx 10 seconds, then afterglows (11.5v) indefinitely. Will not start after this.

CTS dis-connected: #1 relay on (11.5v) for approx 45 seconds, then afterglows (11.5v) indefinitely. Will not start after this. Cycled 3 times, still no start.

Something's not right about either the test point or the GPs here. You may have a bad bus or bus connection. You are testing at the GP relay; make your test point one of the forward GPs instead. That way you are testing the parts that matter.

[83_maxima]

The procedure I used was for checking the fast glow control unit on page EL-40 of my 83 FSM (the 81 supplement does not have this testing procedure).

I did check the voltage at the #1 relay as well (with sensor disconnected) and got the same results as I did when testing at the GPC - 11.5v for 45 sec after the key is turned on.

NOTE: My results were no where near what the manual specified, but I am also operating under the premise that the CT sensor is faulty, but connected it for comparison purposes.

[83_maxima]

You are testing at the GP relay; make your test point one of the forward GPs instead. That way you are testing the parts that matter.

I cannot seem to get a reading at any of the GPs. Does not mean they don't have voltage because it will start. May be the voltmeter.

[asavage]

If it's the voltmeter, then ALL of your measurements are suspect. You can do very little with flaky test equipment.

[83_maxima]

If it's the voltmeter, then ALL of your measurements are suspect. You can do very little with flaky test equipment.

But I've got 12 and change with the same meter at the battery terminals.

[asavage]

I cannot seem to get a reading at any of the GPs. Does not mean they don't have voltage because it will start. May be the voltmeter.

You can't suspect the voltmeter in one sentence, and vouch for it in the other!

If you aren't getting a voltage reading at the No. 1 GP, then either the voltmeter isn't working, the voltmeter isn't connected well or correctly, or there really isn't voltage there.

You choose