I'd like more HP ... without Turbo

SD diesels were widely available in the US in the 1981-86 Datsun/Nissan 720 pickups, and in Canada through '87 in the D21 pickup.

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asavage
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#46

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Nissan_Ranger wrote:I tried the E-ram a couple of years ago. Didn't work worth a poop . . .
Sure it did. It was Working As Designed: designed to get your money from you!

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ecomike
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#47

Post by ecomike » 13 years ago

Nissan_Ranger wrote:I tried the E-ram a couple of years ago. Didn't work worth a poop and blew up on the 3ird test run; commutators let go.

N_R
So did they give you a refund?
Regards,

Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.

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TruckA
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#48

Post by TruckA » 13 years ago

Here's the only electric supercharger I've come across that looks like it would actually work:

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406t ... ercharger/
1984 Nissan 720 4x4 gasser converted to SD22 diesel power, now with boost
2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS daily driver
1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Turbo for fun -Sold-
Raleigh, NC

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#49

Post by Nissan_Ranger » 13 years ago

ecomike wrote:
So did they give you a refund?
I got it through my UAP dealer and I returned it the same day I got it; he handed me back my cheque and presumably he got refunded through his supplier.

Regards,

N_R
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.

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Natural power

#50

Post by gimmy51 » 12 years ago

This is very complex thread. It seems that a lot of owners find the sd's undrepowered and slow. Ok heres what I have learned over the past 27 years. The factory turned out a great truck it just needed released. We have found that SD is an acronim for Super Diesel. For less than $1000 the truck as exceded expectations. Started getting more first week. The truck would barly do 25 mph up 7% grade, the old L18 ran circles around it. So fixed the exhaust issue gained 1 more gear across the board. Found that rear suspension way light, fixed that. Reinforced the rear bumper. Fixed the cooling problem, eg... over heating on mountain pass emty. Added ball in bed and got a custom trailer, now the truck could haul a real load. Better shocks, heaver torsion bars. Got it hot and had to re-ring it and shave the head, rule #1 DON"T EVER RUN THEM OUT OF WATER. That was an expensive deer. Recently did some changes to the air cleaner housing and intake tubing, that made a difference. Here's what it does. Crusies along at 110Kmph. Little or no smoke at w.o.t. Learned that the pump was maxed out from the factory. On fresh oil and filters it will pull a local pass (9000ft. 6%) in 4th. gear topping out at 57 mph unloaded. Not bad for a small natural diesel. The truck weighs 3000#, trailer 1800#, this has been up to 10,500# gross on a 40 mile haul. It has pulled 4500# trailer from 4700 ft. to just over 10,000 ft. Most loads seldom go over 2 ton. Fuel use; 16 to 44 mpg depending on load, terain and fuel setting. The power band is easly adjusted between 1600 and 2600 rpm, current tuning has the peak around 2400. Yes it has a tach. Yes it will run out at 92mph. I was wondering if anyone has done a custom intake and or exhaust manifold. The power is there it just needs a little more air.

Some will say prove it, others already know. 8)

Jim

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ecomike
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#51

Post by ecomike » 12 years ago

gimmy51,

Can you elaborate on "fixed the exhaust issue" please.
Regards,

Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.

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#52

Post by gimmy51 » 12 years ago

Be glad to, on my 81 KC The muffler was mounted at the back of the cab. The headpipe was cut just ahead of this point to accomodate a 2 inch 90, from there to the centerline and balanced Y 2 ft 90 el to pair of 2-1/2 x 48 pipes. This gave the desired sound and increased economy and performance, as the oem tail pipe was 1-1/8 ao 1-1/4. Over time and being unable to leave things alone the headpipe has been shortened, a muffler added, and a few leaks due to age and terrain. After the original change the power came in around 1600 rpm with short pipe 30 or so inches the power came in at 2800 and didn;t pull worth a darn. put the pipes back on and currently have power coming in at 2400. This is a little high for what we do so going to start with fresh headpipe maby a tad larger and get things rebalanced. Did try a turbo muffler dumping out the side but lost a lot of the lowend power and sounded bad. We have found that the first arrangement was best and plan to improve on it as we can.
Hope this answers your question. By the way I will bet that your 85 pionier realy scoots.

Jim

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ecomike
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#53

Post by ecomike » 12 years ago

It would probably scoot better if I had smaller tires, or higher gearing in the rear end. I am running 235-75R15s right now.

Sorry, but you lost me at "head pipe". I am terrible at picturing stuff from detailed descriptions like that above. Got any pictures?
Regards,

Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.

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Knucklehead
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#54

Post by Knucklehead » 12 years ago

Also confused with "the pump was maxed out from the factory". There are two ways to adust the fuel delivery, one with the linkage, and one in the pump itself. I can assure you that the Kiki pump only delivers a fraction of what it can. When maxed, it blows copious amounts of black smoke. This pump could run a 4 cyl with four times the current displacement. The motor needs A LOT more air.
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model

jeff115
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#55

Post by jeff115 » 10 years ago

Knucklehead wrote:Also confused with "the pump was maxed out from the factory". There are two ways to adust the fuel delivery, one with the linkage, and one in the pump itself. I can assure you that the Kiki pump only delivers a fraction of what it can. When maxed, it blows copious amounts of black smoke. This pump could run a 4 cyl with four times the current displacement. The motor needs A LOT more air.

how do you get a pump to low more fuel? i adjusted the screw on the side of the pump and cant get more than a haze. im looking to find the limit of this motor. i have a turbo ready to put on and i need to know how to get every last bit of fuel out of the ip.
datsun sd22

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#56

Post by Nissan_Ranger » 10 years ago

Image

Referring to the picture above, note that it 'looks' toward the pump from the left front (drivers) corner of the engine.

You need to adjust the 'smoke setscrew'. Turn it so it backs away from the 'control lever'. Make note of the number of turns you move it so you can put it back into the original position. The more you back it out, the further the control lever can move into the 'excessive fuel' position. Then make sure that the control lever actually takes advantage of the extra room you are giving it to move. You may need to adjust the rod linkage between your pump controller and 'control lever'.

Be advised that IDI engines like the SD22 do not lend themselves to turbo boost as they tend to overheat the combustion 'squish' area beyond a certain level of fueling while adding little to usable HP. DI engines typically respond the best to boosting and fueling. As far as overfueling without boosting goes, driving the SD with black smoke will drastically accelerate ring wear. Hazing indicates you are already already dumping in as much fuel as you should be. There's no getting away from the fact that it's a small, old school naturally aspirated diesel and you can only get so much out of it.

HTH,
N_R
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.

jeff115
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#57

Post by jeff115 » 10 years ago

well that lever that stops on the smoke set screw was remover and it still wont make more than a light hase :( if i take that back cover off and hook the rack up manually will i be able to get full travel? . i understand that it wont be capable of much power but im going to find out how much they are capable of. the truck isnt even street legal so durability isnt a big issue

edit.
there is a pile of info over on 4btswaps any one lookin for info should checkit out
datsun sd22

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Knucklehead
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#58

Post by Knucklehead » 10 years ago

I consider the smokescrew to be part of the linkage. It can be screwed in enough to shut the motor down, but as you mentioned, even all the way out isn't that rich. (Please note that the term "excessive fuel" on the previous diagram is relative to available air.) If you unscrew it until the control lever doesn't even touch, what then is stopping the control lever? Better yet, if you remove the control lever from the side of the shaft, or even remove everything in the diagram except the control rack, what stops the rack? It is where the front end of the rack bottoms out in the capnut on the front of the pump. You may make the fundamental adjustment by shortening (screwing in) the bolt in the front of the rack, which allows the rack to travel further forward. It is, essentially, taking the spool out from under the gas pedal. It may be screwed in all the way without affecting the functioning of the side linkage. The photo is with the capnut off.
Image
Again, for anyone else who actually does care about the life of their motor, that as NR said, black smoke is bad. The blacker, the longer, and the greater the load, the faster the damage.
'82 standard cab 3 axle SD22 turbo
'89 int'l 9700 Cummins 444 (855 ci)
'29 HD FD export model

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#59

Post by Nissan_Ranger » 10 years ago

I replaced my electric controller with a pull-to-stop cable system. Before removing the controller, I scribed a nice line on the lever and casing to set the cable to for 'run', then marked the cable handle in the truck. For cold weather starting enrichment, the cable gets pushed in all the way to start, and pulled out to a marked point for running. 'Stop' is pulled out all the way. I backed the smoke screw way out to prevent interference. Now I have a dandy way to discourage tailgaters. Simply, I push the cable in to full enrichment, give'er WOT, and the black fog plus stink makes 'em back off REAL fast... This is my second SD22, also the second one I've put into a Ranger. My first one also smoked like an old steam locomotive with the throttle pushed in all the way. Apparently they don't all do the same, though...

N_R
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.

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ecomike
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#60

Post by ecomike » 10 years ago

Nice idea for loosing the police in a chase!


On second thought, it just gives them an easy to spot target.

Just follow the smoke from overhead, LOL.
Regards,

Mike

1985 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer, 2WD, retrofitted with SD-22 & 5 spd manual trans, a 4X4 Gas Wagoneer ltd. (XJ) Jeep, 4.0 L w/ AW4 auto, and now 2 spare 2wd Jeeps, 87 & 89.

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