* SD22 FUEL INJECTOR NOZZLE EXPERIENCE *

SD diesels were widely available in the US in the 1981-86 Datsun/Nissan 720 pickups, and in Canada through '87 in the D21 pickup.

Moderators: plenzen, Nissan_Ranger

plenzen
Posts: 891
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#46

Post by plenzen »

Just FYI, I had my injectors rebuilt at Surrey Fuel Injection Service #7-7550 River Road Delta BC 604-946-0140 and they supplied the SD25 style washers. Both the copper ones (for the body) and the stainless ones for the tips. I think you can order them from Nissan as well 16626-09W00 and 16635-J5570. (I think these are the numbers that I got when I was looking for some myself). Get your local dealer to look them up and confirm first. They (Surrey) also sent me some aluminum washers for the return rail. The FSM that I have for my truck says to use both washers and I did when I reinstalled them. SFSG from Oct 2005.
FYI (again ) I annealed the copper washers before I installed them so that they were softer and "crushed" easier when I torqued them in the holes as well. I also used a very thin film of "Neverseize" on the return rail washers so that they could be removed easier next time to avoid possible damage to the return rail from the nuts gripping on it. If I had a choice the copper “tip” washers would be banned from the surface of the earth. They cause nothing but headaches, drama, and hate and discontent :x :x :x
HTH

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
pidder
Posts: 34
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia

#47

Post by pidder »

I am having a local diesel shop rebuild my injectors, and talked to a guy today at a lift truck place that says he can get me the sd25 tip washers. Will see what he actually gets in. But I was told in this post to use only the tip washer for the sd22. So whats up and who do I listen to? Both gasket washers or only the tip?
plenzen
Posts: 891
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#48

Post by plenzen »

Sorry I did not mean to confuse you. I was only saying what I have in the SD25 FSM. (As per your question if the SD25 was supposed to have both washers) I think, (and only think this) that the secondary copper washers (around the body of the injector) were to keep out water if that were to be washed over the engine. Just a thought though. They may have been introduced because of a problem in the marine application(s) or for some other reason I do not know. The stainless tip washers are far better than the copper washers for sealing the tips onto the pre-cup and, unless you are going to become a U-Boat commander with your vehicle then I would think that they would be fine by themselves. The 2 washer system appeared on the SD25 and up until that time the single tip washer was fine. shrug :roll:
I cannot comment if the cylinder head on the SD25 is exactly the same as the SD22 and if the machining for the injector bores was changed slightly to allow for the second copper washer. Use the single tip washer only as that seal is the most important.

P
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
pidder
Posts: 34
Joined: 15 years ago
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia

#49

Post by pidder »

Thanks, that helps alot. I assumed the sd22 and 25 would have the same set up but my sd22 only had tip washers. I also have 2 sd25 in my shop. So I ordered a dozen of the sd25 style tip washers. Will see what arrives. thanks again for the info.
Tom Young
Posts: 40
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Rockport Maine

More nozzle gasket experience.

#50

Post by Tom Young »

This is a helpful thread for the SD-22 so I'll add this info. Shortly before my CN-33(marinized SD-22 by Chrysler) died, I had the injectors rebuilt. Now with an 84 SD-22 in my boat as a replacement, I decided to switch these into the SD.

With the right part # I got the nozzles at a forklift supply, New England Industrial Truck out of Ma. Part # NI 16635-J2000

The SD injectors looked like they'd been there for a long time, maybe never removed(this engine has low miles and was stored).

The first gasket was murder. I bought some steel Picks at my hardware store(see package in photo). After reading the nightmare of losing a tip on this thread, these are strong(I couldn't bend one with pliers). It took a good half hour to finally loosen and remove the first gasket with the various picks. This is the only nozzle visible(engines in a boat). The second, under the deck, took even longer.

Then I took the 90 degree pick on the left in the photo, and filed a sharp bevel with a fine file. The edge, flat, is like a small chisel or pry bar.

At an angle, the 90 degree end just fit inside the nozzle center bore, the bend or knuckle rests on the gasket above.

Slide it up until you feel the edge of the nozzle(easy), and pry. Voila. The last two nozzles loosened on the first try, and came out hanging on the pick. You can see the single mark it made on the underside of each nozzle in the photo.

Hope this helps.

Image
CCLawrence
Posts: 1
Joined: 11 years ago
Location: California-US

Seal Removal at Sea

#51

Post by CCLawrence »

OK - on a boat you use what is on hand. If we spent money on a new tool for every project, there would be nothing left over for fuel. So, the CN33 in my sailboat was suffering, and I decided to give injector rebuild a try.

So after reading this helpful thread, I pulled the injectors. First I sprayed Liquid wrench on them before starting, then after removing to start loosening the seals. Then came a search for the perfect tool for removing the copper washers, and like any good mariner I had found my corkscrew. Hard tip, small diameter and a twist of the wrist to catch the washer and lift if out.

It was way too easy for boat work, so just waiting for the other shoe to drop.
It is a Boat, so Yes, Money is involved
plenzen
Posts: 891
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#52

Post by plenzen »

As I recall now some of the mechanics at the shop I worked in ( back in the early 70's ) found a long lag bolt that just barely fit into the washer. They threaded this is till it was good and firm and used a heel bar at the top to lift them out. As I recall you had to be careful not to thread them in to deep or get too wide to damage the pre-cup.
Your corkscrew thing reminded me of that just now.
I think some guys modified a long coarse threaded cap screw as well to do basically the same thing.
The trick was having the right size so as not to catch the pre-cup at the same time.

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
Nissan_Ranger
Posts: 270
Joined: 17 years ago
Location: Canada

#53

Post by Nissan_Ranger »

I've been using that technique for years. After getting them out, I used to dress off the edge so they would no longer be tight, anneal them, and re-use. Never failed...
The old 'six gun' was as popular as the cell phone in its time and just as annoying when it went off in the Theater.
charmalu
Posts: 166
Joined: 13 years ago
Location: Soquel, Calif

#54

Post by charmalu »

It was mentioned in one of the above threads that the SD-25 Injector Seal might/would work instead of the Copper Washer used in the SD-22.

I Googled the Nissan part# 16626-09W00, a cross reference came up of a Bosch part# 9-431-610-360.

I also came across this PDF file that is a large listing of Injector Seals for various makes of engines.

http://vedrich.by/files/catalogues/spaco/2.pdf

I have seen prices from $1.41 to $4.00 each. $4 was on E-Bay AU.

My 82 Datsun FSM doesn't mention of replacing the Seal each time the Injector is removed. Yet with the Mercedes Diesels it is talked a lot on the forums to replace them each time the Injector is removed. they are a one time use, IE a crush washer.

I have never changed the seals on my SD-22 in the 475K miles I have owned it. though the Injectors have been rebuilt several times. I bet those copper washers are welded in by now. :>O

I would think the SD-22 and SD-25 would use the same Injector and the seal would work in a 22. can`t see that Nissan would have redesigned the series engine`s differently.

Hope this helps some out there.


Charlie
82 Datsun KC 483K lost #2 cyl blowing blue smoke :cry:
83 Nissan LB 134K SD-25 as of 10-21-13
78 240D Mercedes $300 Parts?
80 240D 360K
80 240D Parts? $750
82 240D Parts? $440
84 300SD 270K
85 300D 363K
86 Ford F250 6.9 Diesel 221K
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