* SD22 FUEL INJECTOR NOZZLE EXPERIENCE *

SD diesels were widely available in the US in the 1981-86 Datsun/Nissan 720 pickups, and in Canada through '87 in the D21 pickup.

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Zoltan
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#16

Post by Zoltan » 13 years ago

It's time for me to send in the injectors to Oregon Fuel Injection for a rebuild, but I could not get out the copper washers. The guy at OFI said I should send him a sample and I should be able to get the washers out with a wire hanger ... yeah right !

So my question is: what's wrong with just leaving them where they are and reusing them?
- Zoltan -
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'82 Datsun 720 SD22 California model
'86 Ford Escort 2.0L Diesel

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philip
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#17

Post by philip » 13 years ago

Zoltan wrote:SNIP- The guy at OFI said I should send him a sample and I should be able to get the washers out with a wire hanger ... yeah right !

So my question is: what's wrong with just leaving them where they are and reusing them?
'Mommie Dearest', 1981 wrote:Joan Crawford: No... wire... hangers. What's wire hangers doing in this closet when I told you: no wire hangers EVER? I work and work 'till I'm half-dead, and I hear people saying, "She's getting old." And what do I get? A daughter... who cares as much about the beautiful dresses I give her... as she cares about me. What's wire hangers doing in this closet? Answer me. I buy you beautiful dresses, and you treat them like they were some dishrag. You do. Three hundred dollar dress on a wire hanger. We'll see how many you've got if they're hidden somewhere. We'll see... we'll see. Get out of that bed. All of this is coming out. Out. Out. Out. Out. Out. Out. You've got any more? We're gonna see how many wire hangers you've got in your closet. Wire hangers, why? Why? Christina, get out of that bed. Get out of that bed. You live in the most beautiful house in Brentwood and you don't care if your clothes are stretched out from wire hangers. And your room looks like some two-dollar-a-week furnished room in some two-bit back street town in Okalahoma. Get up. Get up. Clean up this mess.
Ahem ... scroll back to the beginning of this thread. I found MY way of getting those buggers out and, I didn't damage the cylinder head.

But next time, reduce the washer's out diameter a -little-. :wink:
Last edited by philip 13 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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Zoltan
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#18

Post by Zoltan » 13 years ago

The question remains: why dig out the washers ? They sit pretty where they are and all look shiny ....
- Zoltan -
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'82 Datsun 720 SD22 California model
'86 Ford Escort 2.0L Diesel

pbknowles
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#19

Post by pbknowles » 13 years ago

New copper washers are annealed (soft). The copper washers work harden when you squish them with the injector, so after one squish they are no longer as soft as when they are new, and potentially wouldn't seal as well. I have reused them successfully when removing injectors to do a compression test, but if you are having the injectors rebuilt, why not freshen them up now, even though it can be a PITA to get them out? Do be careful and don't get frustrated though, its easy to damage the sealing surface in the head if you get mad at them.
SD22 powered '85 Chevy S-10

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philip
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#20

Post by philip » 13 years ago

pbknowles wrote:New copper washers are annealed (soft). The copper washers work harden when you squish them -SNIP.
The copper washers were a PITA which is why Nissan changed the design in the SD25. The new type are a crush type. Scroll back to the beginning of this thread for the photos.
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

crzhors
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Washer removal

#21

Post by crzhors » 13 years ago

Howdy,long time no see, I had the washer problem with a Yanmar, I used a new drill bit in a Tee handle, the bit will bite in just enough to grab the washer-Yippee! JD 8)
SD22 Marine=M4-33 1974Challenger 40

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asavage
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#22

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

And a Shop-Vac, presumably!

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Zoltan
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#23

Post by Zoltan » 13 years ago

This is turning into a disaster... I got the injectors back and tried to pick out the first washer with a bent pick following Philip's suggestion when the bent part broke off and fell in the pre-combustion chamber. I tried to fish out the broken part with a magnetized screwdriver, but it's gone somewhere deep... Here's the broken tip of the pick:Image
Image

Left: broken pick on an inch scale.
It's about 2mm [see on the right] where it broke off and the missing piece is about 3/16" long. Should I take off the engine head to fish it out ? It's a small piece, but it's steel and the cylinder is aluminum :cry:


What's even worse is that the copper washer didn't budge and the internal edge has suffered in the process. Any ideas how to get the bugga out? Pencil torch, dropping a piece of dry ice on top of the washer? I guess if the verdict is that I should take off the head in order to fish out the broken tip then I can try the drill bit method. I am kinda depressed right now...Image
- Zoltan -
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'82 Datsun 720 SD22 California model
'86 Ford Escort 2.0L Diesel

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philip
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#24

Post by philip » 13 years ago

"Zoltan"... I am so sorry to hear your situation. The pick you show ... is that metal with a chromium plate?

The cylinder is steel, the rings are chromed, and the piston is aluminum. Of course the engine will run but ... HOPEFULLY .... that little tip exited the exhaust instead past down between the rings, piston, and cylinder. :shock: :shock:

"Fortunately" :oops: :roll: the head on these engines has push rods which makes removing / replacing the head simple. You don't have a cam chain and two cams!
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"

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asavage
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#25

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

If you can't get the broken tip out, the head will have to come off, yes. If that pick end gets stuck between the piston and cyl wall (and it's small enough that that could happen), you will be replacing the liner & piston. If the tip just lays on top of the piston, it will be pressed into the top of the piston on the first stroke, deforming the piston.

Due to the latter, don't even crank the engine with the starter until you get the piece out. It's OK to roll the engine by hand though.

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Zoltan
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#26

Post by Zoltan » 13 years ago

philip wrote:"Zoltan"... I am so sorry to hear your situation. The pick you show ... is that metal with a chromium plate?
Yup... Perhaps it's a good thing that I have to take off the head. The engine was using quite a bit of oil, so now I can take a look at the rings and the liners.

Are the head bolts TTY or I can reuse them ? I read the chapter in the FSM and it didn't say I needed new ones.
- Zoltan -
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'82 Datsun 720 SD22 California model
'86 Ford Escort 2.0L Diesel

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kassim503
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#27

Post by kassim503 » 13 years ago

Do the valve stem seals too, they wear out before the rings and liners do.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black

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asavage
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#28

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

The head bolts are not torque to yield (TTY), and can be re-used.

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asavage
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#29

Post by asavage » 13 years ago

Torque to Yield: one-time use bolts.

zen
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#30

Post by zen » 13 years ago

You could try to get bit out via vac cleaner..cylinder type with extendable pipe..take out glow plug to allow vac to vac to suck air in...use a clean bag so you can check to see if its been sucked up...could try sucking though glow plug hole... long shot I know...but minimal effort required and you never know.
turbo it

(sd33t home turbo set up if anyone is interested..)

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