sd22 in a 1948 Willys Truck.

#151

I would have removed the injection pump-but it scares me.

Having said that, I need to remove the solenoid one more time: it is leaking.
I suspect I boogered up the rubber o ring.
This is turning into a twisted version of "Groundhog Day." I am doomed to repeat this process until I do it right...

#152

Groundhog Day version 7.0.
Disregard my previous advice claiming that solenoids from similar injection pumps are interchangeable with the VE pump on SD23 and 25s. It will fit, but if you look very closely the bevel that seals the solenoid to the IP, the angle is ever so slightly different. Hence, leakage.

So back to looking for the correct solenoid-if anyone has a parts #, please let me know.

#153

I can contact the injection rebuild place here that did my pump and see if they list a part number for it. I just got a bag of parts back that they replaced and the bill. They did not list all the parts that they put in unfortunately.

Taking the pump out is pretty easy.

The biggest FEAR is dropping the key inside the engine. That being said it fits in the slot pretty tightly and is pretty near the top when you remove the gear. If you stuff a rag in the hole when you get the gear off it will prevent that little bit of drama from happening. I would not remove it from the slot if its tight. Removing it will make it loose when you put it back in. It's kinda hard to explain. It rocks a bit from front to rear ( front down, rear down so to speak) but is stuck in the slot pretty well.

The biggest PITA is getting the gear back in the right timing position, but leaving the pump loose to the engine helps with that.Before I removed it from engine I used a paint stick to mark the location between the 2 gears. The three "Y's" are kinda hard to see and my eyes aint what they used to be. A big ol stripe of white paint stick helped with that.
Just check and re-check and triple check that you mechanically timed it correctly when you put it back in. Check AFTER the gear is seated all the way on the pump shaft. For the key to line up and the "Y"s to line up you may have to roll the engine a bit one way or the other to get them all to fit at the same time. eg; You may have the "y" past where they fit together by a tooth or two and get the key to fit into the pump gear. Then by rolling the engine back the "y's" will line up. It's easier than it sound and hard to explain. Will run like POS ( if at all ) if you are out by 1 tooth either way.

The one nut behind the pump nearest the engine is a bit of a pita to get out as well.
You can loosen from the top with a 12mm and then I used a long 1/4 drive flex extension inserted from back where the oil filter would be in the way if you had not already removed it.
There is a bracket that fits on the bottom the pump as well that fastens it to the engine mounting foot. I found it easier to just take that bracket off all together. Its to lock the pump in place after setting the timing. Once you get it running where you like it you can put that bracket back on.

Bleeding the CSD ( if its equipped with one ) will take a long time. It will do it eventually on it's own but expect a week or so of driving for that to happen.

Only special tool you need is a steering wheel puller.
The two long bolts from the cover work in the threaded holes in the pump gear.

If you look at the engine cover at where the pump mates to it, it's already scribed with and mark that coincides with the mark on the pump.

I have had my pump on and off a number of times now and including draining the cooling system and taking the rad out I can do it in about 40 mins out. About an hour+/- to put in.

Will make changing that solenoid waaayyyyy easier.

The injection place does not open till monday and I can call them then if you like.
I can also look at the one they replaced and see if there is a number on it.

Sorry to be so long winded. Takes longer to explain how to do it that it does to do it.

P

#154

thanks for the descriptive write up, It makes removing the IP sound a tad less ominous. If you could ask them for the # of the solenoid, Id appreciate it. I hate the thought of buying another solenoid.

#155

I will.

#156

The shut off solenoid they used on my pump was

Zexel # 146650-0720

They have one in stock as it turns out at

$55.66 ( cdn )

HTH

#157

Thanks! I looked all over the internet and cound find a parts number, or be certain that it was the correct one.

#158

I called the injection re-builder company that did my pump and this is the part number that they used.

I have the used one here.
It was working fine but they change them with a new one when they rebuild.

#159

I sent you a PM

Paul

#160

One more thing that I forgot to mention if you take the pump off.
Before you loosen it check the scribe line on the mating surface that the pump mounts too. It will be a very fine line scribed and will line up to a groove, or notch in the pump just under the right mounting nut. Make note of the orientation of where those line up with each other. That is your "ignition" timing for lack of a better term. Like setting the distributor on an older gasoline engine. It's pretty sensitive to even the width of the notch in the pump as it relates to ease of starting, and NOISE.
You can certainly mess with it a bit and move it one width either way and hear and feel the difference.
You can get it so it's real quiet( retarded towards the engine ) but it's a bear to start.
Too much advance and you cant hear yourself think but makes decent power ( for what these make ).
Problem with running it too early is you risk damage to the top ring so I wouldn't go nuts on it.

You can mess with the smoke screw at the rear of the pump too.
( has a 13 mil lock nut and a small slotted head screw at the end)

Gentle turns. !
1/4 turn MAX at a time.
Also
Out is less
In is more. ( fuel/smoke/whatever )

Keep track of how far you move it.
It may still be lock wired.

Paul

#161

I've seen them fail electrically a couple of times, not on Nissans, but as you found it's the same (or similar) on many, many VE-type IPs.

#162

I suspect the failure was due to me leaving the ignition on for four days...I will rewire the ignition switch in such a way that it will not be possible to accidently leave it on.
Thanks to Paul for taking the time to get that parts number. I owe you one. I ordered a new part, hopefully will be here by next weekend.
Meantime I need my truck to haul a couple loads of rock and topsoil for the wife's garden, so back to "groundhog day," namely pulling the solenoid for the 5th or 6th time...
The first time I removed the solenoid it took three days (with a broken right hand). Now I've got it down to a NASCAR-like pit stop, I was able to pull it, remove the plunger and reinstall it in about 30 minutes. Now it runs like a champ. The only problem with this is that I have to stall the motor (I use 4th gear) in order to shut it off. Not an ideal solution, but the wife is happy!

Because of the delay I need to back off some of the projects I had hoped to have completed by summer. The first is to install a late 80s Nissan transmission/transfer case with a second divorced Nissan transfer case behind it. This will give me 15 different gears, as well as an uber-low crawl ratio.
The second is the turbo project. This isn't a bad thing as I need to research it more thoroughly. After failing to find one of those forward-exiting forklift manifolds, I may have come up with a way to adapt the stock manifold...

Thanks again for the support and happy Easter!

#163

Did the photos that I sent you of the one that I removed from my truck look like the same one that you are looking for

Paul

#164

elminero67 wrote:Disregard my previous advice claiming that solenoids from similar injection pumps are interchangeable with the VE pump on SD23 and 25s. It will fit, but if you look very closely the bevel that seals the solenoid to the IP, the angle is ever so slightly different.

(click on most images for larger)

The fuel cut solenoid body seals to the IP housing via an o-ring. If you are experiencing fuel leakage there, look to see if your o-ring is missing or damaged.

That also implies that you don't need a lot of torque when tightening that solenoid.

#165

Paul-from the pictures you sent I couldn't determine if it was exactly the same as the one I removed. For that matter I couldn't tell the difference between the VW and the Nissan version until I pulled it out and reexamined them side by side. Only then was it apparent that the beveled surface was ever so slightly different, which if Al is correct , shouldn't be what seals the unit into the IP. I have reinstalled the VW unit two times now, and it has leaked both times. I inspected the O-ring closely the second time before reinstalling the old unit, which doesn't leak.
After looking over the pics Paul sent me of his IP solenoid, Im not as confident that it will fit properly...will find out soon enough.

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