sd22 in a 1948 Willys Truck.

#46

I don't believe that these are supposed to be bored, but I could be wrong, I thought one just bought new pistons and sleeves.
I bought one of them kits on ebay several years ago, it seems to be running alright.

The thing you look for on a SD head is cracks between the valves.

#47

Wouldn't I need to bore it out to fit the sleeve?

Here's my theory on the JDM motor (actually a SD23) I ordered, and the reason I was hesitant to deal with them: According to their website, they offer the SD23 for $1285.00 with free shipping to a loading dock or location with a forklift. Good price but every time I have called they were out of stock.
When I saw the same JDM company (same phone #)offering the motor on Ebay for about the same price, I called and asked about it, but for some reason the same motor on Ebay now cost $800 to ship to a loading dock. The same place also has a SD23 with what looks like a different transmission for $2000. This just seems fishy to me, and I'm starting to suspect that it may be the old "bait and switch" scheme, as in "we are out of that motor, but do have the $2000 version in stock..."

I hope I'm wrong, and if so will post liberal praises of the company.

#48

Order confirmed.

As of this morning, JDM of Dallas ten SD23 motors in stock, and didn't try to switch me to a more expensive model.

The one I have coming has a 4-speed auto transmission attached. Might save the auto for a future project!

#49

I did not know a automatic was available on one of these diesels.

#50

I couldn't find anything on the internet about what automatic transmission came with the SD23 in the Cabstar/Caravans.
Id be tempted to use it but can't imagine doing anything that would make an SD motor slower

#51

^^^^^^^

Exactly !

#52

elminero67 wrote:Wouldn't I need to bore it out to fit the sleeve?

I don't know for sure how the old sleeves/liners are taken out, but it is likely done with some kind of press or a hammer, I didn't ask my machinist how, I just had him install the sleeves/liners, cam bearings, the stuff I could not do, and check the clearances on everything, he told me it was all standard, so that is what I ordered with the kit.
I believe they are more like liners, you likely could install them if you were able to heat the block up to a couple hundred degrees, while the liners were in the freezer, then just drop them in the holes and wait till the temps equalize.

#53

Thanks for the clarification, that makes sense. If the SD23 doesn't work out (that is my anxiety speaking) I may end up going back to the SD22 that has served me well for many years.

After searching this site, it appears that there are differences between the SD22 and SD23 that need to be considered. Since I am not a mechanic and there is a lack of good information on the SD23, please feel free to jump in if there is anything I am missing or misinformed on:

The Sd23 seems to have the "newer" glow plugs. Since my truck (82 motor and harness) has the older style, which work fine, I plan to use the glow plugs from the SD22 in the SD23. good idea or bad idea?

I believe the SD23 I ordered has a circular IP, as opposed to the inline IP seen on our SD22. I also understand that they are not interchangeable, so it looks like I will have to go with the circular IP that comes with the SD23. Will I have to change anything else (i.e. wiring, fuel lines etc) when I install the SD23?

Does anyone else see any other issues?

#54

Are you saying it has a VE type injection pump(IP) instead of the inline IP?
I put a VE type pump on my SD22, but I had to transfer everything over, even the gears.
I have heard that the VE type do not last as long as the inline type do, but I wanted to turbocharge my engine, so I had a complete engine with a VE type pump shipped from Australia to me, but now a guy local to me successfully turbocharged his engine with an inline pump without issues, so now I guess I wasted my money, oh well.

I myself don't know a lot about glow plugs, but I suspect that you need the type your truck system uses now, if you put a fast type glow plug in a system that is made for a slow type like the US model diesel engines with the glow plug timers all wired into the key, then you will possibly smoke the glow plugs on the first startup, a parts store sold me a set of glow plugs, I put them in my truck, and they worked great the first time, the engine started without smoking at all, but they never worked again, I actually had to pry them out of the glow plug holes with vice-grips, the ends of the glow plugs blew up like balloons, and they were not easy to get out.
Another thing that you need to know is that the SD22 inline injection pump has all that wiring to turn on and shut off the engine, a DPC module, an injection pump controller, the VE type IP doesn't use any of this, it has a fuel cut off solenoid, when the key is on you have fuel, when you turn the key off, it cuts the fuel off, but you will need to figure out how to give that solenoid power while you are turning it over, otherwise it will never start, I spent several hours trying to find a power source that had power in both key positions, I never found one that would work in my 1981/82 720 diesel wiring harness, I ended up using a relay that was activated by my starter wire, it was complicated and confusing, but it works now, if you have any issues, I can take photos and describe what I did, but I will have to go out to the truck and figure out what I did again, once I got it working, I chose to forget that nightmare day.
This is my VE type IP in my 720 dually.

#55

Thanks for the response-that is exactly what I was looking for.
Based on the "stock" photograph of the SD23 at the JDM website, it looks like I'll be getting VE style pump.

http://www.jdmenginescorp.com/images/025-11.jpg

Nice job on the IP switch. I'd like to take you up on the offer of explain how you wired the VE IP and cutoff.

Who knows, may even follow your footsteps with the turbocharging.

#56

OK, I will try to explain this the best I can, I did not remove the diesel wiring system, just in case I wanted to go back to the inline injection pump.

The power wire I used to turn the engine off and on is the blue wire for the washer bottle motor in the "T" plug, this is the key on/off power for me, see photo below.

See how it has a yellow and green wire coming out of the plug, the yellow wire goes to the injection pump(it is spliced into a blue wire), and the green wire goes to the relay(it is spliced into a red wire), see photo above.
Try to understand this, the blue washer motor wire is the power when the key is on, and the green wire coming from the relay will supply the power when the key is in the start position.
Now the photo below shows the otherside of the relay, you an see the red wire that turns to green that goes to the "T" plug, the other side of the relay that has a red wire, that wire goes directly to the positive post of the battery, there is a small black wire coming off that side of the relay connected directly to the battery, I think that is power for my tinytach.

See the yellow wire on one of the 2 small posts on the top of the relay in the photo above, that goes to the starter exciter wire and is spliced into it(black/red line wire), see photo below, I spliced into it, just above the alternator.

See the blue wire going to the top of the injection pump in the photo below, that is the yellow wire coming out of the "T"

I hope this makes sense to you, if you have any questions, just ask.
I suppose that there is likely an easier way to do this, but I spent several hours figuring this out, and it was the only way I could make it work.

#57

Thanks for taking the time to post that, now when the sd23 arrives (in 6 days according to shipping co.) I can start her right up on the crate and make sure she runs well.

#58

elminero67 wrote:Thanks for taking the time to post that, now when the sd23 arrives (in 6 days according to shipping co.) I can start her right up on the crate and make sure she runs well.

Is this going in the Jeep?
Do/did you have the wiring for the key on and off in this vehicle, or were you just using a choke cable?

#59

It is going in the Jeep/Willys. I have the complete wiring harness from the 720 installed in the Jeep, I was able to extract it without cutting any of the wires, so no cables or bypass wiring.

#60

elminero67 wrote:It is going in the Jeep/Willys. I have the complete wiring harness from the 720 installed in the Jeep, I was able to extract it without cutting any of the wires, so no cables or bypass wiring.

Good job, most would have went the easy way, big thumbs up for you.
I just read this whole thread, good job on all the work you have done so far.
I am afraid you are going to have an issue with the new engine, I don't know about the auto tranny, didn't know they had one, but I believe that your SD22 flywheel is not going to bolt on to the SD23 crank, I really hope I am wrong, but if the SD23 has/shares the same flywheel with the SD25 which I suspect it will, then you are going to be stuck, unless someone on here will part with a flywheel, I had to have one made, it cost me over $400.00, and I supplied everything except the labor, you see even though I did all the legwork, shops just don't want to do stuff like this for cheap.
Maybe you will have to use the auto.

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sd22 in a 1948 Willys Truck.

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