SD 22 Feed Pump

[surfingnexpa]

Hello all. I'm new to the forum and I'm hoping someone can help me locate some parts. I have a chrysler/nissan MD 22 engine in my boat which is the marinized version of the Nissan SD 22 engine. I'm looking for 1.) a fuel injection gasket kit and 2.) a Lift/Feed pump or Lift/Feed pump rebuild kit. I called a diesel shop that told me the former Kiki pumps have been replaced by the Zexel brand and that he would need the original part number to determine what will replace it. I don't have the part number available from my engine. Does anyone know what the part number might be or which pump I can use to replace the original one on my MD 22. Much appreciated.

[plenzen]

Actually I believe the Chrysler Nissan designation for your engine is a CN433. and you are correct that it is in fact an SD22 family of engines.

The Marine/industrial applications used a different fuel pump than the automotive engines did.
The glow system is different as well.

That being said

The number for your pump is stamped into the housing at the bottom.

You may have to remove the pump to obtain it. ( if your good reading small numbers from a mirror then that may work.) I suspect that you are going to try to refurbish it so it may be off already.

What gaskets specifically are you looking for ?

[surfingnexpa]

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I wasn't totally sure on what the marine version was called. Unfortunately, I'm not at the boat. It's out of the country so I can't get the numbers off it. I was hoping someone might chime in who knows which one it is but I'm at least glad you told me it was different. I was about to by a zexel rebuild kit. I'm not sure yet that there is even anything wrong with it. I just wanted to bring it down to the boat the next time I'm there as I'll be working on trying to figure out some issues with the fuel system. Plus it's good to have as a spare part. As for the fuel injector gasket kit (I meant washer kit), I was basically looking for the copper washers that go to the fuel injectors and something that goes on those screw on back feed lines. I was leaking fuel out of them for quite some time. I was able to source a place out of Australia that had the kit. It's for an SD 22 so I hope it's the same. Here's the link.

http://www.dencodiesel.com/diesel-injec ... -sd33.html

[plenzen]

Yes that kit will work for you however.

What you have in it now will most likely be the older style copper gasket that fits at the bottom of the hole.

1. Be prepared to spend some time cursing and swearing getting those out. They are notorious for sticking to the bottom of the hole and being a proper SOB to dig out of there. Many guys have broken the ends off of picks etc trying to get them out only to have the end of said pick ( or whatever ) fall into the pre-cup and then the DRAMA begins trying to retrieve it.
Try this first
Get a larger diameter long lag bolt (5/16 or 3/8 about 4 inches long ) that will just start to thread into the hole of that small copper washer. There is a fine line between threading it in too far and not enough to grab sufficiently for it to hold on tight enough to then use a pair of vice grips or whatever to yank it out of there. You may have to grind the pointed end off the bolt a bit to keep it from going in too far and bottoming out in the pre-cup. If you can get it to grab on in the first 1/2 turn you stand a good chance of getting them out. You can try a regular bolt too. use the hole in the center of your new tip heat shields to gauge what size of bolt you will need. Once you think you have it in the hole securely enough gently move it from side to side to try and break it loose from where its stuck at the bottom.
Good Luck

2. The kit you bought will have some different looking pieces from what you have taken out, in particular those little bent stainless steel tip pieces. Lots of people think they are actually the tip gasket but they are in fact ( so I am told by the fuel injections service center I deal with ) heat shields. There is a top and an bottom to them and I will have to look up what way they go but I think the flatter side goes against the head. I can find out for you later. I just did mine 4 months ago and i forgot.

3. The copper washer that fits around the injector body.
Do yourself a favor and anneal them before you use them. Copper work hardens even just sitting around or the act of actually punching them, If you anneal them they will be soft again and seal much better.
DO NOT OVER TORQUE the injector.

4. Return Rail Lock Nut
Use a very light coating of either copper coat or never seize on the locking nut that holds the return rail in place. The flat side of the nut can grip onto the mating surface of the rail and try and turn it when torquing the nut. If it does turn it will break/crack the line loose from the fitting and leak all the time. The copper coat or never seize will allow only the nut to turn and slip easily over the mating surface of the return rail.
DO NOT OVER TORQUE this nut.

I can look up the torque specs for you if you like.
I have an SD25 but it uses these newer types of injector gaskets/washers etc so I suspect the torques will be the same.

I take it your having the injectors rebuilt ? ( why else remove them right )
If your having them rebuilt have the break pressure moved up to 1900 to 2000 psi. This aids in cold starts.

Taking one of those fuel pumps apart is an event that's best left to someone that actually services fuel injections systems. To just replace the "gaskets" will take some test bench setting up once it's come apart. There are clearances and internal pressures that have to be set. There are tiny washers and O rings buried deep inside. Most of these service centers do this in clean rooms as the tolerances etcc inside these pumps is pretty critical.

If the pump is original then it's most likely dripping now because of the ULSD diesel fuel. The older neoprene rubber style O rings etc did not bode well with that stuff and start to leak. The newer gaskets etc are made of Viteon and get along well with ULSD.
BUT
It will take a service center to overhaul and rebuild.

If its not leaking and the only fuel dripping issue you have is the return rail then that would be all I would look at taking apart.
I suspect however that someone has tried to tighten the aforementioned nuts on the return rail and cracked one of the lines that go between the injectors.
If that's the case it can be removed and silver soldered to be sealed again.

Good luck

P

[surfingnexpa]

I'm not needing to replace or rebuild the fuel injection pump. I just need to rebuild or replace the fuel lift/feed pump. Do you know where I can source this for the CN 433.

[TOYoung]

I'm not needing to replace or rebuild the fuel injection pump. I just need to rebuild or replace the fuel lift/feed pump. Do you know where I can source this for the CN 433.

I may be confused but if you're talking about the hand priming pump on the fuel injection pump, I think they're the same on either the CN 433 or the SD22.

The injection pumps are different(the CN433 has the mechanical governor and the SD22 has the pneumatic governor). I switched IP from a CN433 onto a newer SD22 that I put into my boat. I'm pretty sure the hand priming pumps were the same.

If you search this website, I believe there is a thread on a replacement.

Is it leaking? If so, is the plunger screwed down into the body?

What kind of boat do you have the CN433 in?

[surfingnexpa]

Yes. I'm trying to locate a replacement of the manual hand pump. Nissan Parts Zone says it's on backorder indefinitely. They were selling it for $200. I found one with Blue Ridge Marine and they want over $500!

I'm not all that confident that there is anything wrong with mine. It became a potential concern when I started having RPM drops and then finally started stalling completely. There was a large pocket of air (not a bunch of air bubbles like most people talk about) in my RACOR fuel/water separator which then made me negate the idea of a failing feed pump. However, I do want to bring one back to the boat when I head to where it's moored just in case. I'll look on the other discussions but if anyone knows where I can get one of these manual hand pumps, please chime in.

I have an IOR Islander 41. I'm not sure if it's the CN 433 or the SD 22. The boat came with an SD 22 manual but its the automotive version. Is there anyway to determine exactly which one it is?

[waynosworld]

Yes. I'm trying to locate a replacement of the manual hand pump. Nissan Parts Zone says it's on backorder indefinitely. They were selling it for $200. I found one with Blue Ridge Marine and they want over $500!

I'm not all that confident that there is anything wrong with mine. It became a potential concern when I started having RPM drops and then finally started stalling completely. There was a large pocket of air (not a bunch of air bubbles like most people talk about) in my RACOR fuel/water separator which then made me negate the idea of a failing feed pump. However, I do want to bring one back to the boat when I head to where it's moored just in case. I'll look on the other discussions but if anyone knows where I can get one of these manual hand pumps, please chime in.

I have an IOR Islander 41. I'm not sure if it's the CN 433 or the SD 22. The boat came with an SD 22 manual but its the automotive version. Is there anyway to determine exactly which one it is?

Is this what your pump looks like?
Are you talking about the only clean part in this photo below?

Or are you talking about what that plunger is screwed into?
Here is the same part on a different pump, does your pump look like this one?

Personally I would try a diesel injection service shop, same place you would have your injectors rebuilt, or have a new injection tube made, they carry that kind of stuff, I think I bought one for less than a $100.00 from mine.

[TOYoung]

Yes. I'm trying to locate a replacement of the manual hand pump. Nissan Parts Zone says it's on backorder indefinitely. They were selling it for $200. I found one with Blue Ridge Marine and they want over $500!

I'm not all that confident that there is anything wrong with mine. It became a potential concern when I started having RPM drops and then finally started stalling completely. There was a large pocket of air (not a bunch of air bubbles like most people talk about) in my RACOR fuel/water separator which then made me negate the idea of a failing feed pump. However, I do want to bring one back to the boat when I head to where it's moored just in case. I'll look on the other discussions but if anyone knows where I can get one of these manual hand pumps, please chime in.

I have an IOR Islander 41. I'm not sure if it's the CN 433 or the SD 22. The boat came with an SD 22 manual but its the automotive version. Is there anyway to determine exactly which one it is?

Start with this thread.

http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopi ... =fuel+pump

There are a few links to primer pumps that may fit for less than 40.00 USD I think this is a pretty standard part.

If your Racor has air then, as you probably have guessed, there's a leak in your fuel line from the Racor back to the tank.

I could be wrong, but I think these engines are all marked SD22 on the block. The Chrysler Nissan marinizing didn't change anything except the marine add on parts.

The Injection Pump on the CN's is the industrial mechanically governed IP, used on water pumps and generators even before Chrysler Nissan marinized the SD22. This is a continuous duty set up that limits the rpms.

Nice boat! Are you cruising the area or is this your home waters?

[plenzen]

Sorry I did not see the part of the "lift feed" pump in your original posting.
I mistook you for wanting to rebuild the whole injection pump.

What Tom said !

I think ( IIRC) there is a plate riveted to the back of the rocker cover on the injector side that states what it is. The earlier ones had Chrysler Nissan cast directly into the rocker cover.
But as Tom stated they were ALL SD22's.

I had a racor (R 100 I believe) when I got the truck from my dad and I found that the O ring on the top cover would allow vacuum in but not pressure out. I too was having trouble with it laying down when pulling a hill.
I removed the Racor and problem gone.
Try bypassing it for a test run and see.

[dn29626]

I did a quick look at datsun/nissan but did not see one at several sources i use. I am confident it is still available. For some reason i am thinking mercedes also.

[waynosworld]

Here is a hand primer pump on ebay.
Zexel 152200-5620
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-ZEXEL-ISU ... 38&vxp=mtr