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Nissan diesel engines, and the people who love them
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Post Number:#1  PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 8:53 am 
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Hello, I have a 1978 SD22, engine shop put oil filter in upside down. Am I missing a piece? I do not see how large opening at bottom of filter can seal to head. Thank you.


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Post Number:#2  PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2016 7:04 pm 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
Have a look through this thread . I believe there may be some useful photos there.

viewtopic.php?t=1635

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Post Number:#3  PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 5:01 pm 
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I did see that, thank you. Wish I had a better picture of that parts diagram, I can't seem to blow it up big enough to read. I have never seen that filter insert before nor do I see it in any of my manuals. Probably impossible to find now. I don't understand how it would seal to the header. That IS my same engine, the yellow SD22 4 cyl (MN4-33). Wish there was a picture of the top and bottom, it might have its own seal or shares the one that the canister mates to. Been talking to Eldon at McFarling Diesel in NE, he confirmed the filter WAS upside down. Will send him more info as soon as I get back to the boat. Thx.


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Post Number:#4  PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:55 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
I'm thinking they maybe gave you the wrong filter. ?
The large opening at the bottom of the cartridge is supposed to be sealed by the washer and the small hole is supposed to fit snugly around the bolt shaft. It appears as if the filter they gave you has the wrong hole at the small end. ( or i may not see it correctly in the photo) The large one appears nearly too large as well but that's how it appears to me.
There is supposed to be a flat O ring/gasket between the canister and the mating surface of the filter housing (same diameter as the filter canister) As you tighten the "through" bolt it seals the canister so the housing.
Once the filter is sitting on the spring and washer it should be sitting just slightly above the end of the canister. As you tighten the bolt the filter is pressed against the washer and spring sealing that end. The small end is sealed around the bolt. The more you tighten the canister is pressed against the flat O ring/gasket sealing the whole assembly.

Hope that makes sense.

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Post Number:#5  PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 9:52 am 
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Yes it was both the wrong filter (Napa 1745) and installed upside down. The large hole goes down and is supposed to mate against part #15229-76200 in the last diagram attached. I am missing that part. I have the correct filter now #51399.

I realized that the
incorrect napa 1745 filter just fits inside the cover, its a bigger OD than the correct filter #1399 (in photo). I took the bottom
off the old filter, the correct filter fits in the old filter bottom plate just like it would sit on the missing "T" tube, minus the tube for now, but at least the oil will be going thru the filter. The only "if" now is will plate seal to the engine header. Looks like the tube was a stand pipe to keep the filter full when with the engine off.

Would you happen to have any shops in your area that could contact? No luck here in the US. The shops here a also getting a "no" from Nissan supposedly for my SD-22 serial # 137562.

Sorry I did not see this reply from you, for the 1st one I did receive an email notice, but not this one. Thx, Rich


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Post Number:#6  PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:06 am 
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Resending 1st 2 pics


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Post Number:#7  PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 12:10 pm 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
Sadly those parts may be made from unobtainium now. Start calling some marinas in your area and see if they may have an old one lying in a scrap heap. The dealership I worked for back in the day has long since got rid of all the bits a pieces they had left.
What you may be able to do however is to find an automotive/forklift sd22 and remove the oil filter housing from it and use spin on filters.
Also
There is a member on here (or was) that had an sd22 in a sail boat. He may be a resource for you. I wanna say his name was Tom Young but not sure.
I will search more for him when I get home.

Edit
Actually here is his member info. Perhaps his PM still works.

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1368

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Post Number:#8  PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2016 6:43 pm 
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Great thx, I sent a msg to Tom. I tried all of the above/below you suggested, even ebay parts shops in China, local fork lift shop can get the all the spin-on mods. thx, Rich


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Post Number:#9  PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:43 pm 
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Hi Rich! Sorry I missed this.

I don't have that missing part either. I use the Wix 51399 cartridges. The small end does go at the top and seals around the hollow bolt. Spring above filter holds it down. The base of the cartridge sits on the inner raised edge of the channel that holds the rubber gasket (replacement with every cartridge). I figure with the spring pressure from above holding it down, it's 'good enough' seal. It would be better to have a gasket but it fits nicely, flat - metal to metal. It seems it's nearly 'full flow' With marine oil changes 100 hours or less (in my case), I think it's doing the trick. My SD-22 fires up on the first crank even as the temps here are getting quite cold.

The bad news on trying to fit the spin on filter set up: I tried that when I replaced my last SD-22 with a newer one. The industrial IP pump does not leave enough room for it to fit. I had to take it off (sadly), and install the old oil filter set up.

I was able to use the bolt on metal tubing and replace the rubber hoses.

Hope this helps. What boat do you have the SD-22 in?


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Post Number:#10  PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 12:17 pm 
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Thanks Tom, The boat is a Sailcrafters/Columbia 41. I have not tried my mod yet, still waiting for a response from a couple of fork lift shops. I did finally get the 51399 filter and I'am using the bottom of a new dismantled napa 1745 filter (wrong filter) as you can see in the photo with the round magnet holding it in place. Hoping it will seal to the header gasket since it is a little larger than the filter and just smaller than the cover. Have had to explain the oil flow situation to alot of people when they suggest "just use a spin on", since the flow is a little different. What (IP?) pump did you have that was in the way? Thx.


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Post Number:#11  PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:55 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
Sailboat wrote:
Thanks Tom, The boat is a Sailcrafters/Columbia 41. I have not tried my mod yet, still waiting for a response from a couple of fork lift shops. I did finally get the 51399 filter and I'am using the bottom of a new dismantled napa 1745 filter (wrong filter) as you can see in the photo with the round magnet holding it in place. Hoping it will seal to the header gasket since it is a little larger than the filter and just smaller than the cover. Have had to explain the oil flow situation to alot of people when they suggest "just use a spin on", since the flow is a little different. What (IP?) pump did you have that was in the way? Thx.



This block looks a lot like my diesel engine I imported from Australia, and my SD25 blocks, they all have the oil filter that points straight up instead of tilted forward like the normal SD22 engine, except the SD25 engines have an extra hose coming from the head fitting to the oil filter/cooler assembly.


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Post Number:#12  PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 10:57 am 
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Sailboat wrote:
Thanks Tom, The boat is a Sailcrafters/Columbia 41. I have not tried my mod yet, still waiting for a response from a couple of fork lift shops. I did finally get the 51399 filter and I'am using the bottom of a new dismantled napa 1745 filter (wrong filter) as you can see in the photo with the round magnet holding it in place. Hoping it will seal to the header gasket since it is a little larger than the filter and just smaller than the cover. Have had to explain the oil flow situation to alot of people when they suggest "just use a spin on", since the flow is a little different. What (IP?) pump did you have that was in the way? Thx.


Great boat! I don't follow how you're using the bottom of dismantled Napa filter. Do you have any pics that show that? The oil flows out of the hollow bolt that holds the everything together (I think), flows around the outside - and in through the filter element, then pumped down to the pan. The metal body of the 51399 is slightly larger in diameter than the inner lip of the recess that holds the rubber filter gasket. I just had a thought: What about doubling up that rubber gasket? It would then tightly seal to the 51399 metal body. But it might cause problems with the seal the cannister cover and the base.

The injection pump - the same as you have in the photo - was too close to the screw-on cartridge set up. Unless your's is different (and it looks like the same manual governor injection pump), I'm afraid you'll have the same problem. It fits fine with the SD-22 pneumatic governor and injection pump (shorter fore and aft) that was used on the Nissan pick up trucks (where my engine came from).

Here's mine just before we put it in the boat about. You can see there is not much space between the cannister and the IP.

Image

I just re-read your old post and photos. I think I get your plan now. You're looking for a seal at the 51399 bottom rubber gasket that is a part of the element. Is there any problems getting the cannister to seal to the base-gasket when you tighten the bolt down? I'll be changing my oil for haul out soon. I'm pretty happy with the seal I get (tried to explain above) but I'll give it a closer look.

I have a non-related question for you: What is the diameter of your iron piping going from the water cooled exhaust manifold and your exhaust riser? I'm planing on replacing my old exhaust (copper exhaust pipe with a copper water jacket) with a water cooled muffler.


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Post Number:#13  PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2016 3:32 pm 
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Y'all couldn't use something like this could you ?
I remember I used one on my old 57 chev with a 265 and cannister type oil filter. Not sure if they make a universal type unit but a machine shop may be able to make the aluminum piece for you so you could then use a readily available spin on that would not be in the way of the IP pump.

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=we ... ZMdopGzPQA

Just a thought

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Post Number:#14  PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 10:41 am 
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I just changed the oil and filter this morning, and took this photo.

The metal base of the element is bigger than the inner ring on the mounting plate. The element rattles around on the inside of the cannister when you're fitting it(it's a smaller diameter than the cannister.

But, when you begin to tighten the hollow bolt - that goes through the cannister + spring + washer - the element begins to line up and center inside the cannister. It makes sense as the upper washer on the element is tight to the bolt. Once the spring begins to compress on the element, it's pushed down on that inner ring.

As I began to tighten the bolt, I watched the element. I didn't guide it - it just centered inside the cannister. I took a pic before the bolt drew the cannister down to the rubber gasket (the one included with the element). You can just see the element can resting on the inner rim of the mounting plate.

Not perfect - it doesn't have a rubber gasket for a 100% seal, but it's not a bad seal. All oil is pumped through the hole in the hollow bolt, above the element, and suction pulls it through the element, and back to the engine.

I know the element wasn't designed with this in mind, just luck.

Image


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Post Number:#15  PostPosted: Wed Nov 02, 2016 10:42 am 
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plenzen wrote:
Y'all couldn't use something like this could you ?
I remember I used one on my old 57 chev with a 265 and cannister type oil filter. Not sure if they make a universal type unit but a machine shop may be able to make the aluminum piece for you so you could then use a readily available spin on that would not be in the way of the IP pump.

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=we ... ZMdopGzPQA

Just a thought


If they made one that fit, that would be great! I don't know how it would bolt on though. Anyone know?


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