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Nissan diesel engines, and the people who love them
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Post Number:#181  PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 7:37 pm 
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I would be real interested in pictures of the exhaust manifolds after being made over into turbo manifolds. I don't have the funds currently for anything, but any modifications that you feel will work will make for future ideas for me.

Also, pictures of anything you find that works for the cooling concerns would be appreciated.

Don


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Post Number:#182  PostPosted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 7:31 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
Maybe just for grins and giggles try a bottle of this stuff and see if it does what it says it's supposed to.

I know Redline "oil" products are pretty good.

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=75&pcid=10

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Post Number:#183  PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 12:04 am 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
I will let everyone know about the turbo exhaust manifolds when I know, and I will take photos.
It will be a while as the guy that is going to do the work has had an issue with his welder, and since it was under warranty they are going to send him a new one when his old one arrives, for some reason they are not going to fix his, and that is kinda sad, everything is disposable these days.
If I can remember to buy "water wetter" at Walmart I will be lucky as I see that they have it there, I rarely go there, I will look at the other places I go also like Baxter's and the like, that doesn't seem like a lot of money for a test try, but as the weather temps have dropped as of today, I will likely not have temp issues until next spring/summer now, so I might not even be able to tell if it helped.
I did not even start it this weekend, I stayed home the whole weekend getting ready for the rain.

I mowed around the pool Friday and something came out from under the lawn mower and made a hole in it, so I let all the water out and folded it up, I might throw it away or I might patch it, it is such a huge pool that it more than doubled my water bill that month I filled it, I would be happy with one a third the size as that one holds around 4600 to 5000 gallons, it wood have been cheaper to just stand in a cool shower for 10 minutes every hot day than to fill that pool.

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Post Number:#184  PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 4:56 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
I drove the truck yesterday in the cool weather and the temp never got above the half way mark on the gauge, I put around 20 miles on it.
It just doesn't like to go above 55/60mph unless I put my foot into the pedal, it will easily go 75/80mph all day long, but I have to bury my foot.
It really doesn't go any faster than it did before on level ground, it just gets to speed much faster and goes up the hills way better, oh and the EGTs are way cooler, I would guess it averages 500 degrees cooler, sometimes cooler, sometime hotter, but the average EGTs are down, at least for the way I drive.
I know other guys that never really went faster than 60mph in their Datsun/Nissan diesel trucks, they get really good mileage also, but I cannot drive like that.

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Post Number:#185  PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 11:59 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
I drove the truck today and I am back to getting hot, it was likely over 80 degrees, felt like 90 degrees.
I have not found that Redline product yet, need to find it and try it, if that don't work I might try that CLR trick, need to do something before I over heat the engine.
Picked up a refrigerator with the truck today.

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Post Number:#186  PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 6:01 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
I can't recall if you have an actual mechanical type gauge in that truck or not. Do you know for certain exactly HOW hot it is actually getting in degrees ?
What does your thermal gun read at the thermostat housing in this HOT condition ?
I have some running around to do today in mine and I will scan it when I get back with my thermal scanner and see.

On that note
Tomorrow I leave for the coast ( From Calgary to Vancouver ) and I am taking my truck because I have some stuff to haul back from my dads place.
I will NOT take the Coquihalla (highway thru hell) as there is way too much UP on that road ( both ways ) but rather the Fraser Canyon highway. Grades are much less there. It does add about 40 minutes to the drive however.
I will still have some pretty good mountain passes to take however before I get there and am down to 3rd gear on most of them.

I will scan my thermostat housing today when I get back from the city and let you know what it reads.

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Post Number:#187  PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 11:53 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
Took my temp gun with me on the trip to city today. There is a 3km long hill out of town. It's steep enough that my truck will not go up it in 4th gear @ 80 km/h. I have to go in 3rd and I keep it around 60 - 65 km/h so as not to beat it up too bad.
Cant get a run at the hill as the danged light at the bottom of it is usually red, and the speed limit is 50km/h.

It's 24C here today ( about 75 for y'all).

I went up it as usual shifting back and forth between 4th and 3rd, and the temp gauge went to about 1/2 way as usual
(maybe 1/2 needle width more) and i heard the clutch fan come on, depending on how warm the day is it may or may not come on.

I pulled out at the top and measured the temp at the thermostat housing where it's fastened to the head, below where the thermostat sits, and it was 210F,
I measured at that big banjo fitting near the oil filter on the pass side where the oil cooler water line goes, and it was 214 there, the thermostat housing where the hose fits on was 190.

I then drove 8 km on pretty level ground at 100 km/h and stopped and measured it at the same places. I heard the clutch fan let go about 2 km in.
The temps at the same places were 195 and 198, the thermostat housing was still 190.
The temp gauge was back to it's normal operating position of about 5/16ths , a couple ticks below 1/2.

The hill out of town changes in grades. Pretty steep at the bottom for about 500 meters and then a bit less for about 1km. There is then a long sweeping "S" bend in it and the grade increases again.

I am also at 1200m here too ( about 4000 ft) and that's before I go up the hill.

HTH

Paul

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Post Number:#188  PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 6:31 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
I built this truck back in 2009/2010 and drove it for 7 years without a turbocharger, the temp needle has always hovered around the exact middle of the gauge for all them years using the 521 gauge and the 720 sensor, I have another 521(521 harness) and a 520(1980 720 harness), they act exactly the same, right around the middle, when I am driving on the freeway in the 521 work truck which hauls a trailer also, the needle will pass the middle and climb maybe 10/15 percent higher going up a slight grade and then when I take the exit it refuses to drop until I get thru all the signals that stop me(5/6 of them), then it drops, I have dual SUs in that truck, the bowls of the carbs start to boil and it starts missing until I get moving so cool air can get into the engine compartment.
This diesel 521 diesel needle 25/30 percent past the middle(3/4rs and maybe a little more), I have only seen it higher once before, and that was when I drove up the grapevine pass just north of Los Angeles on I5, buy the time I got to the top the engine wasn't running properly, it cooled and started to run properly again, so I believe that the gauge is still showing the same now as it did back when I first put it together, the 720 diesel sensor looks the same as the 521 sensor except for the connection.
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I don't know if they are actually the same, but for 7 years it seemed to work fine, I don't believe the gauge/sensor changed just because I added a turbocharger, I believe the only thing that has changed is that I added that coolant line to the turbocharger, maybe this extra heat has broken the camels back.
I also just went out and looked at the turbocharger coolant piping, I piped it from the lower heater core hose connection to the turbocharger, then from the turbocharger to the heater core, then from the heater core to the lower thermostat housing, so I am thinking that the coolant is getting pulled out of the lower thermostat housing thru the heater core, then it goes thru the turbocharger, then it gets sucked into the water pump, this appears to mean to me that the heater core coolant/turbocharger coolant never goes thru the radiator itself, but it does go thru the heater core before going to the turbocharger, Larry had the engine I got from him piped the other way, it goes from the lower thermostat housing(hot water just coming out of the head) to the turbocharger, then to the heater core, then it gets sucked into the water pump.
Larry's way makes the coolant hotter when it enters the heater core, which could make it heat up the cab faster, I routed it so the heater core cools the coolant down slightly before it enters the turbocharger, either way I don't believe that the temp sensor is getting any hotter coolant than it normally would get because of the turbocharger as the turbocharger coolant is getting sucked out of the head and into the turbocharger/heater core or heater core/turbocharger and then into the water pump, the coolant doesn't go the other direction does it, the coolant gets sucked into the water pump via the lower radiator hose, correct?
The more I look at the water pump the less I understand it, it looks like it is pumping cooled radiator water into the lower thermostat housing via that "U" shaped hose.

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Post Number:#189  PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 2:33 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
So I found and put that Redline Water Wetter in the radiator and took it for a drive with my only goal being temp checks.
I checked it 3 times, the middle time had the needle around 3/4s the way up the gauge, I got out and lifted the hood as fast as I could while it was idling, I found low 190s on the upper and lower thermostat housings, same thing at that fitting above the oil filter, the hottest thing I could find was the top of the radiator which was at 201, I found the longer it idled the hotter it got as air really doesn't flow thru the radiator, as I don't have a cowl as it is a custom conversion, since I never had a heat issue in the 7 years I have been driving it I never thought about making one.
When the needle is in the middle of the gauge it runs in the 160s, I have been seeing it in the middle for years, so when I see it higher it is running hot in my mind, I still don't like it up there as I don't have a lot of warning now if it starts creeping up and really running hot, and what is the new hot. :?

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Post Number:#190  PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 8:28 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
Well the IP controller quit working today, I unplugged it and plugged it back in a few times without positive results, I then plugged in another one and it functioned properly, so now I am going to have to R&R that, what a pain that is going to be, I will likely bend the inner fender up out of the way so I can get to it thru the fender well as I am never ever going to replace it from the top, I cannot even see it except at this strange angle with a light pointed at it.
I replaced the lift pump a while back by bending that inner fender up, but it is in a higher position, it is really lucky that I didn't install the stock power steering assembly on this like I was thinking about doing, I likely would have had to remove everything in front of the engine to replace the IP controller.
It appears to be stuck in the run position, unlike the 720 that is stuck in the off position but that one doesn't change when I test another IP controller, it still don't work properly.

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Post Number:#191  PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 12:20 am 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
I changed out the IP controller today, when I got the old one out I found the cover was missing one screw and the other one was loose, I found a screw and tightened it up but could not get it to work.
So I took it apart this evening and figured out why I didn't work, one of the brushes broke off and was in the motor stuck to the magnet, or at least it was stuck between the rotating assembly and the magnet.
I pulled the rotating assembly out and found the little spring that held the brushes against the commutator(had to look that one up), at least all the parts are there except for the one lost screw.
I don't think I can fix it myself, I just am not that good, can something like this actually be soldered back together?

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Post Number:#192  PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 7:12 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
I think I see what your talking about being soldered.
Conventional solder is not likely to work for any length is time, but perhaps silver solder might.
If Al sees this he may have an opinion.
Of course if you could find that brush it would be better, but that's unlikely.
If not take the good one off and take them both to someone that does jewelry repair. They use silver solder all the time. Using the good one as a reference they could silver solder the broken one back together.......maybe.
Brazing I think would require too much heat.

As stated. Al might know of a different method.

Edit: just zoomed in on photos and realize you would have to take that whole board the brushes are mounted on to jeweler, (or wherever) and they may be able to silver solder it back in place.
Maybe

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Post Number:#193  PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 11:01 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
I had something to post yesterday when the site was down, and now I cannot remember what it was.
The truck is back to running good again, it starts a little harder now as it is colder outside, I have never changed the glow plugs in it, the last time I bought glow plugs for the 720 diesel I had to pry them out of the holes as the tips had blown up like balloons, I am a little shy about buying them now as what if I had not been able to get them out, I suspect it would start easier with new glow plugs like the 720 does, that one starts easy.

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