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Nissan diesel engines, and the people who love them
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Post Number:#1  PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:24 am 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
About 4 years ago I decided to make this because I like legroom.
I started with this.
Image Image Image Image

This is what it ended up looking like.
Image

And this is why I am posting it here, it has a SD25 in it.
Image Image Image Image

It has power steering, and power front disc brakes, I put 350 gears in the rear, and it will do 80mph all day long on level ground, but it only gets 27mpg going that fast.

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Post Number:#2  PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 12:30 am 
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At one point it did look like this, I was towing it to a show with my 1980 Datsun 720 dually diesel.
Image

I do also realize that they did not have a diesel in 1980, but that is what I put the diesel into, can you guys figure out what is wrong with that 720?
I came to the conclusion that the SD25 diesel engine wasn't going to push that truck down the hiway at any reasonable speed sitting that high in the air, so I took it off the 4wd frame and made it 2wd again.

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Post Number:#3  PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 6:36 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
Is this what the "voices" you hear tell you to do ?

Keep them !
In these cases they gave you some good ideas.
The pink fuzzy dice and faux fur interior ...................... not so much

LOL

Nice job on both.

What are the side fenders from on the 720? Chevrolet ?

The diesel engine I see in the pictures appears to be a 22.
You mentioned a 25.

Also
I would like the mag wheels in photo 1 for my D21

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1987 D21-J SD25 KC
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Post Number:#4  PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:18 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
It has an SD22 valve cover on it, it is a SD25.
You cannot see the oil filter, but it is standing straight up, not tilted forward like the US SD22 versions.
It does have the SD22 intake also, with the smaller intake throttle body hole, but it works for me.
The fenders were off a Toyota truck, they are aftermarket, and I modified them to fit the 720 truck side.
As for the mag wheels, they are in use, sorry.

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Post Number:#5  PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:44 pm 
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Posts: 249
Location: Anderson, SC
Plenzen
You beat me to the SD22 question.

You are one talented guy.

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82 King Cab 2wd (nice)
82 Reg Cab (body damage)
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Post Number:#6  PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:40 pm 
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This is what I did for power steering on this truck, as you seen in my photo in a previous post, my fan has a double pulley, someone made it, and it got in the way of using the groove on the balancer below on the crank, so I used it, no issues so far.

Here is the lower unused groove I would have used normally.
Image

I make brackets that will bolt to the pump, and I then make a bracket that bolts to the 4 holes on the side of the timing gear cover, as you can see I drilled 3 different holes to test different heights of the pump.
Image Image

This is my adjustment for the pump.
Image Image

I basically just buy whatever is available at the wrecking yards and make it work.

When doing this to a 720, you also need to buy the 2wd power steering column, as the rag joint on the manual steering column is down at the steering gear, but the power steering column rag joint is up by the firewall, as the rag joint on the manual column hits the upper control arm if used on a power steering gear.

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Post Number:#7  PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 5:54 pm 
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The pictures are great.

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Post Number:#8  PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 11:36 pm 
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No guesses yet on what is not right with this 720 in the photo?
Image

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Post Number:#9  PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 5:52 pm 
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You already mentioned the dually whees & dually fenders.
Looks like standard wheels on front (which makes front to back a mismatch).
The bed might be long, i am undecided.

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Post Number:#10  PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 6:08 pm 
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dn29626 wrote:
You already mentioned the dually whees & dually fenders.
Looks like standard wheels on front (which makes front to back a mismatch).
The bed might be long, i am undecided.



That is it actually, it is a kingcab with a longbed.

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Post Number:#11  PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 4:46 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Washington USA
So I have decided to put a turbocharger on this truck now, I have a turbo exhaust manifold that some previous owner cut a hole in the side of the stock manifold and then added a flange, this all came with this engine that I bought from this guy for $320.00, it was in the mid on the side of the guys house, I never really looked at this exhaust manifold before as I just assumed it was a hack job and I seriously doubted if it ever really created any significant boost as the waste gate was wired shut with what might have been a coat hanger, and it is a huge turbocharger, I kinda look at it this way, I can blow a spitwad thru a straw a long ways, but I cannot blow a spitwad out of a vacuum cleaner tube, my lungs are not big enough.
Anyway I pulled the whole manifold apart as I was considering having a guy make me a real turbo manifold for my SD25, after I got everything off and looked in the hole I came to the conclusion that this might actually work even though the back 3 runners are actually pointed the wrong direction, but at under 3000rpms it might work.
So here is what I got with that engine.
Image

Image
And here is what it looks like apart.
Image

Image

Image
Here is what I made to connect to the turbo manifold.
Image

Image

Image
Here it is mounted to the manifold.
Image

Image

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Here is the 1600cc Subie turbocharger I am going to use.
Image

Image
And here it is on one of my engines in the shed.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
This is going to be a tight fit as my brake booster/master are in the way by a quarter of an inch as far as I can tell, I might be able to change out the rear circuit reservoir for a smaller one, if that don't work I may have to use a Ford Courrier master brake cylinder as the reservoir is a remote type which will fix my issue there, it is going to be tight.

This time I am going to try a blow thru type turbo again, but this time I am going to try something I never thought of before, I talked to the guy that did the turbo bomb thread on here a year or so back, he is the reason my 720 turbodiesel runs so good as he made me think and I then added that boost line with a valve going to the vacuum line that controls the injection pump, I was able to get it richer to where it runs properly on a draw thru type turbo setup, well this blow thru is going to have a boost line with a valve going to the injection pump vent line, so then it will have boost on both sides of the diaphragm, with the valve to control how much boost the vent side of the injection pump sees, I am hoping that the ventruri in the throttle body will work properly again, that is how that guy did it on that pretty red engine in the top left corner of every page on this forum.
But first I have to get it installed, and I have to get ready to do this, I am going to push the brake master/booster towards the inner fender and make a bracket to hold it there first, even a quarter inch will help, then I will need to modify the exhaust pipe coming out of the turbo, it needs to make a 70/80 degree bend right out of the turbo so it doesn't interfere with the throttle cable and install an EGT sensor, then pipe it thru the torsion bars so I can drive it and see if it is going to work this way, if it looks good I will make the rest of the exhaust system all the way to the back, I will not need a muffler as the turbo is the muffler.
I will keep adding to this user rig thread as I make progress.

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Post Number:#12  PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 9:21 pm 
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So I looked at the truck a lot and then dealt with the brake master first, it looked crooked/at a slight angle compared to the clutch master, I came to the conclusion that I had not beat the inner fender out of the way enough for it to clear so it has been at an angle for years, and I didn't want to pull the brake system completely apart right now, I decided to cut the metal out of the way for now from the wheel well side, I will make a piece of metal to fill the hole after I get the turbocharger conversion completed.
I loosened everything, helped the booster/master into the position I wanted, made a bracket that pulled it another eighth of an inch farther and installed it, then I tightened everything back down, I then took a shower and went to the accountants and had my taxes figured out.
When I got back home I noticed the brake lights were on, this aggravated me a little, as they had been on for an hour and a half and I am tired of loosing batteries because of shit like this, so what had happened was when I re-positioned the booster/master, it had pulled the pedal just enough away from the brake light switch to have the brake lights come on, I had it adjusted that close, I re-adjusted the pedal switch and started the truck up and drove it a couple blocks to make sure that the brakes were not affected either, all is good.
I need to remove the turbocharger exhaust outlet and have an angled piece put in it with a EGT gauge mount, the one on there now points right at where the throttle cable is supposed to be, I thought about clocking the throttle body 90 degrees, but it would just be less effort to leave that stock and deal with the outlet as I am going to have to make an outlet anyway.
The brake booster/master was a success, I actually gained almost an inch of room, I may still have to route the brake lines on the other side of the master, but I will deal with that when I have to, I will do some more measuring.

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Post Number:#13  PostPosted: Sun Apr 09, 2017 8:00 pm 
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So this is where I started today.
Image
Then I removed the stock intake and exhaust manifolds and installed the SD25 intake and turbo exhaust manifold.
Image

Image

Image
I got the down pipe started, it goes about a foot down and makes a turn around the booster, I am going to have another one made out of a little larger pipe.
Image
I also made a connection to the throttle body that the blue piece of rubber tubing is connected to in the previous photos.
Image
I ruined a pyrometer gauge today, I hooked it up wrong, I was not thinking right, I don't know what I was thinking, all I know is that was $200.00 in the garbage can, not all that happy right now.
I still need to pipe the oil and water for this turbocharger, water will be easy, oil a little more difficult, already have the oil return hose in the block, but it needs replaced.
I need to replace the front brake master cylinder reservoir with a straight up type, as the short wide type it has is in the way of the compressor side outlet, not sure what I am going to do about the compressor intake right now, not a lot of room left in the engine compartment.
This whole thing needs cleaned up, right now I am just mocking everything up, once everything is figured out I will take it all out, clean it up and put it back together with all the bolts holding everything on, I will also put a brace between the turbo mount plate and one of the head bolt studs to take some of the weight off the exhaust manifold and it's mount bolts.

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Post Number:#14  PostPosted: Fri Apr 14, 2017 8:36 pm 
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So I piped the oil and water to the turbocharger today and then started it up and ran it till it was warmed up, the air is not piped yet, but it seems to have a better throttle response, it now has an SD25 intake instead of a SD22 intake which has a smaller throttle body, it can get more air now, but I didn't put my foot that deep into the pedal.
When I rev it up a lot of air comes out of the turbine, so I am hoping this all works out, I received a Pyrometer kit today, so I now have the bung I need, but I don't want to use this bung on this head pipe, so tomorrow I am going to go to the parts store and buy a fitting that the pyro probe will screw on to and just drill a hole and thread it into the head pipe temporarily till I have the new head pipe made that goes under the truck, right now I just have a piece of flex pipe connected to the head pipe, it doesn't even clear the frame, but it does point at the ground so I don't expect to start a fire.
I will also pipe the boost gauge, then I will have to start thinking how I am going to pipe all the hoses that will control the rack, I will also need a valve to control the boost going to the vent line, that is how I am going to try and keep this one a blow thru instead of a draw thru.

EDIT

So I just went out in the garage and found a square nut that I re-threaded to fit the adapter that the pyrometer probe threads onto, I will drill and tap the head pipe, then I will thread the adapter with the re-threaded nut on it till the nut gets to the head pipe, I will tighten it slightly then tack weld the nut to the head pipe, then I will remove the adapter and then weld the square nut to the head pipe permanently, then run the tap thru it, then thread in the adapter and install the probe, it should work long enough to get me thru testing and to the exhaust shop, I need to make sure it is building boost before I have an exhaust system made.

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Post Number:#15  PostPosted: Sat Apr 15, 2017 7:07 am 
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Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada
I have a question for you.

Can you not just eliminate the throttle body all together ?

Or do you need the vacuum source from it for the fuel pump diaphragm and all that "magic" that happens there ?

I have a throttle body on my SD 25 but have the VE style pump.
I have adjusted it so it's open all the time.
Only thing I can think of why it was on this truck was for noise abatement as it was originally adjusted to open at about 1/2 - 3/4 throttle and then the engine noise was enough you couldn't hear when it opened anyway.
It's made no difference whatsoever as to how the engine performs.
I kept it there in its open position merely to keep my air cleaner in place. My air heater is mounted under it.

I would think that getting rid of that thing would give you more air flow and a bit easier to seal the boost to.
You could use the base of it or make a flange with just a piece of 3 inch ( or whatever size it is ) pipe and shoot it straight in.

However
If you need it for proper fuel pump diaphragm function then I guess your stuck with it.

Or has someone mentioned this already elsewhere ?

Just curious is all
P

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Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN


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