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Nissan diesel engines, and the people who love them
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Post Number:#121  PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 7:37 pm 
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I will need to check this out to be sure, but if you got any fuel on the Oregon side of the river I'm pretty sure that it will have a small percentage of bio-fuel in it. I don't know what Washington requires.

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Post Number:#122  PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 7:44 pm 
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plenzen wrote:
Pump ain't labeled B 5 or something like that ?


Next time I am there I will look, I suppose it could be some kind of bio-fuel, I never really gave it much thought, I do know that the fuel station I buy most my fuel from used to say #2 years ago, can't say I have noticed what it says now, it also has truck pumps and car pumps in the front, but I buy mine from the rear pumps that say "truck", and have for many years without issues.

I just stopped by another fuel station and bought 5 gallons of diesel, I already put a clear hose from the hard line to the back of the box, maybe tomorrow I will figure out how to put the hose in the can and be able to drive it without spilling fuel, I will let it return to the main tank, as this is just a test to see if anything changes.

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Post Number:#123  PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 5:18 am 
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Put the pouring spout in the jerry can and run them through there. It should not spill. Only reason I suggested both clear lines is so you can see whats going on when its taking fuel in and sending it back.
Jerry can could be 1/2 full as long as the inlet line is submerged it will be fine. Use that little electric pump as a primer and once it's running then disconnect it and you can test the lift pump performance at the same time.

Perhaps you got contaminated fuel at one point and now your tank is the one contaminated the station has most likely got rid of theirs.

Just thinking of eliminating one thing at a time is all.

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Post Number:#124  PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 8:32 pm 
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So I piped it for both hoses, I used a power brake booster boot to control fuel splash.
It still was losing power, just not as bad of power loss, but it is also only 70 degrees outside, I likely could have kept up 65mph on level ground, but no way on the hills.


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Post Number:#125  PostPosted: Wed Jun 28, 2017 9:22 pm 
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I am wondering if a bad diaphragm could cause this issue, to me I have always assumed that the diaphragm rest position is floored, the IP controller forces the diaphragm/shaft into the start and off positions, but in the run position it floats, vacuum from the venturi pulls the diaphragm to the idle position, when the butterfly is open it loses vacuum letting the spring move the diaphragm shaft moves to a richer position, now when under boost it makes the venturi think it has no vacuum therefore moving the diaphragm shaft to a very rich position, that is why I piped boost to the vent line, to keep the boost in the IP control line from being overwhelmed, basically deleting the boost factor and letting the venturi operate normally again.
Now in my mind if the diaphragm had a hole in it then it would run richer, but maybe I am missing something.
Also I tried driving it without the vent line piped to boost and it started surging, I only made it a few blocks from my house before turning around, I suppose I should try it again and take it on the hiway, if it surges at hiway speeds without power loss..................

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Post Number:#126  PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 4:09 pm 
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OK, so I did something different today that I sorta tried before but I did it a different way this time and it made a difference.
I ordered this valve setup to control boost that has a valve and a tee, I tried it and it didn't work, the tee is sort of a one way tee.
This time I just used a regular tee and the valve, in the past if I just vented the vent line the engine surges like it wants to run away but when I let off the pedal it cut the air off so it could not surge anymore, but when going down the freeway or a steady 40mph it would still surge, an even speed was kinda a pain and it always ran real hot(EGTs), anyway I put the tee in the vent line between the turbo and throttle body and that tee connection goes to a valve on the passenger seat where I can control it.
I got in the truck and started it and let it warm up, then I took it for a drive, at first I could feel slight power loss so I kept opening the valve and it got better and better, I could lift the valve to my face and feel the air coming out of the fitting that had no hose on it, I drove it for over 20 miles, at around 12 miles I pulled the small hose off the valve and just let it vent, the engine ran pretty good, it still wanted to surge a little, but when ever I blocked the end of the hose with my finger I would have immediate power loss, let off and away it would go.
That said I also had another issue that bothered me, the water temp was as high as I have seen it, now as far as I recall when I have pulled the radiator cap in the past I could see the water flowing, so I believe the water pump is good, so I am now thinking that I may need a larger radiator, it works fine in the winter when it is cold outside, but today it is 90 degrees and my temp needle was over 3/4s of the way to pegged, my EGTs were a little higher(800 degrees once), but not enough to make me think the EGTs were causing the warm engine, it just might be without the turbocharger I was right on the edge, but with the turbocharger it just cannot cool it enough on the freeway when it is warm outside(over 70 degrees).
I drove it a steady 75/80mph when traffic allowed, it felt better than it has since the hood river trip, but still had slight power loss a few times when the valve was on the end of the line, after I pulled it off it was better, but as everyone knows, when one starts paying real close attention you notice things you may have not noticed before.
I will look into a larger radiator next and go from there.
I also have a lead on a new inline injection pump for an SD22, I am waiting for a price right now.
I also think something changed, maybe it has something to do with the diaphragm or the diaphragm spring, when I do the radiator I will also do the battery holder, air filter box, and maybe pull the diaphragm/spring and look at them, I have a new diaphragm and an extra spring, I also am planning on changing over to the stock diesel power steering setup to make room for a better/larger pre-filter with a water trap.
I do not believe the fuel tank or fuel were the issue now, I will likely also pipe the fuel lines back to the stock tank.

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Post Number:#127  PostPosted: Sat Jul 01, 2017 11:12 pm 
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I didn't get a lot done today, I planned on transferring over the diesel power steering but that didn't happen, I then planned to put a larger radiator in the 521, that didn't happen either, nothing I have would fit without cutting up the core support, so I am going to see if I can have a 3 core radiator made out of a 2 core 521 radiator.
I have a 3 core Champion aluminum radiator that has the outlets in the wrong spots, but I kinda am saving that one for the work truck.
I did weld a new battery tray area bottom in, I also welded the air filter housing into the inner fender, it's a lot solider now, I did see a notch in the upper radiator hose where it appears to be hitting the power steering pump pulley, I might put a hose clamp in that spot so it hits the clamp metal instead of the rubber hose material, it will buy me some time to get the radiator made with the outlets slightly re-positioned, I did put the hose on at a slightly higher angle that may have given me a little more space between the hose and the pulley.
I piped the stock tank back in to the fuel system, I believe that the issue I have been having has something to do with the diaphragm, the diaphragm spring, or the coolant temps getting higher because of the outside temps, now I am not sure how this could be causing the issues I have been having, I really need to remove the diaphragm and inspect all them parts that control the fuel mixture to be able to rule them out as causing the issue, but reducing, not eliminating the boost pressure to the vent line going to the injection pump appears to have made the issue less noticeable, the 720 runs just fine piped the way I piped the 521, something has changed on the 521.
It is getting more fuel now as the EGTs are a couple hundred degrees hotter than they were before, but it is warmer outside also, I will eventually figure this out or adjust, but I liked the way it was piped, this air leak thing on the vent line bugs me, I want it to be simple, I don't want to have to adjust/tune it every time I drive it because of outside temps.

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Post Number:#128  PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 7:49 pm 
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I didn't even start it today, but I made a heat shield for between the turbocharger and brake master/brake lines, I also pulled the battery and cleaned up the battery tray better, oh and I looked at it a lot.
To get to the diaphragm I would have to pull a lot of stuff to be able to get to the screws holding the housing on including the new oil filter I just put on, so I am not going to do anything about it right now, I am hoping for a few days of lower than normal temps to see if I can drive it with the air leak plugged, if it runs good then I will know for sure it is heat related.
I also pulled the grill and tried to install a electric fan, but I only have 2 inches between the grill mount sheet metal and a 9 inch fan that is 2 1/2 inches deep.
I have now started considering putting another radiator in the box, but I have no idea how I will pipe it as there is no room in the engine compartment for 2 more hoses, and will the water pump move that much water that far, I am hoping the radiator shop tells me that they can put 3 cores in my 2 core radiator tanks and that it will cool better.

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Post Number:#129  PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 1:10 pm 
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Do you have the 5 blade clutch fan on it and the shroud ?

Is there an air dam under the rad support to help draw air through ? Maybe make it a bit wider to stall more behind it. I take it your highway speeds are what gets it warm/hot ?

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Post Number:#130  PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:20 pm 
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plenzen wrote:
Do you have the 5 blade clutch fan on it and the shroud ?

Is there an air dam under the rad support to help draw air through ? Maybe make it a bit wider to stall more behind it. I take it your highway speeds are what gets it warm/hot ?


You have to keep in mind that this is a custom diesel conversion, everything is modified to fit this engine in this truck.
I do have the diesel 720 clutch fan, but the two core radiator is for a 521 which is smaller and narrow, I had to have the radiator outlets reversed for the diesel, the lower outlet on the driver side is too high so the fan was hitting it, so I trimmed the fan blades around an inch in a jig I made, it doesn't move as much air now but has worked fine for over 7 years now without the turbo, sure it got warm on mountain passes, but I didn't go over passes a lot so I didn't care, but it would not go over them passes at the speeds I can do now either, around town I have no coolant temp issues, only at freeway speeds, on the first trip to Olympia when it was cooler outside I noticed the coolant temp rise on that hill at the 55 mile marker on the I5 freeway, but it didn't get that hot, this time it got way up there on level ground and stayed up there, but the EGT temps were not that high, maybe the water pump is going out???

The front sheet metal has lots of holes that direct air at the radiator as it was built for this radiator, the 720 chassis has a piece of sheet metal that bolts to the underside of the frame that protects the oil pan from rocks, I suppose that also creates a suction that pulls air out of the engine compartment also, at least the front half of the engine compartment.

I mentioned this is a custom build, my radiator has no shroud, I have never had an issue so I never really thought about it before, I do have a 521 radiator shroud, I might be able to get it in there, but the fan is real close to the radiator(1 inch away maybe), and the shroud is made for the fan to be back away from the radiator likely at least 3 inches, and even if I could get it in there, I seriously doubt the fan will center in the shroud.

Freeway speeds appear to be my issue now that it has warmed up outside, I was used to the coolant temp needle to be slightly over the half way mark, this was way higher than that, the only time I ever seen it higher was when I went up the Grapevine hill/grade just north of Los Angeles on I5 and by the time I got to the top of that hill the engine was running real bad and blowing a lot of black smoke, it cooled down going down the other side of that pass and started running properly again, I was very lucky I didn't blow the engine up that night, I didn't know about EGTs and pistons melting back then, I know now how lucky I was.
I don't really know how hot the coolant is, as it has a 720 sender, but it has a 521 temp gauge, the fuel gauge doesn't work right, empty is just under half a tank, but the temp has always seemed to be about right, it also has been the same on the other 3 custom 520/521 trucks I have built, but the fuel gauges all work correctly on the other trucks, only this one is weird.
Maybe I am getting too excited about the coolant temps and need to buy a lazer type temp gauge/gun and see what my coolant temps really are.
As I said, the coolant appears to move past the radiator cap hole at a good rate, so I am assuming the water pump is good.

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Post Number:#131  PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 5:26 pm 
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Well I got in this truck this morning planning to go pick up a pressure washer part and I only got to the freeway before having issues again, and it was only 60 something degrees outside, I turned around and drove back home and took the 720 turbodiesel.
I might put it back on the gas can sometime this weekend and try it again, but I suspect it is something else, the idle is rough, but I have no smoke coming out the exhaust, it starts easy also, this is getting old.

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Post Number:#132  PostPosted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 6:59 am 
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Frustrating for sure. :evil: :evil:

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Post Number:#133  PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 12:49 pm 
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I have not even looked at this truck since Friday when I tried to use it for my errand.
I cleaned up my back yard this weekend, I can see progress which makes me feel like I got something done.
I don't have the equipment to do a compression test, and the fact is I don't really know how to do one, me and this guy over in Portland that is selling his diesel truck on craigslist did two engines one afternoon several years ago, I don't think we did them correctly then either as the numbers were all over the place, could not get the same number twice.
It starts so easily that I don't think it is a headgasket, it doesn't blow any white smoke at all, so this makes me believe that compression is not the issue.
If the diaphragm was easy to get to I would have already done that, but it is very hard to get into that area now.


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Post Number:#134  PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 4:04 pm 
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Compression test is pretty easy to do. You can go through the glow plug hole.
Basically just take out the glow plugs, disable the fuel supply and crank it over with the throttle body plate wide open. I want to say the numbers should be around 350 - 400 psi but I'm guessing.

At one point Al had a tester and an adapter he made for SD engines so you could get in behind the fuel pump. He would loan it out for a deposit. Not sure he still has it. Somewhere on here are the exact numbers your looking for as well.

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Post Number:#135  PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:40 pm 
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plenzen wrote:
Compression test is pretty easy to do. You can go through the glow plug hole.
Basically just take out the glow plugs, disable the fuel supply and crank it over with the throttle body plate wide open. I want to say the numbers should be around 350 - 400 psi but I'm guessing.

At one point Al had a tester and an adapter he made for SD engines so you could get in behind the fuel pump. He would loan it out for a deposit. Not sure he still has it. Somewhere on here are the exact numbers your looking for as well.



We used Al's compression tester kit the time we did it that afternoon a long time ago in North Portland, I am thinking the results are posted in a thread on this forum.

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