Calling Davehoos!

#1

Hi gang, been away for a while, new job and it has me hopping. Hoping to get some help for my dad, who is in Uganda. He has a non-US spec 93 Land Cruiser Model # Y-KZJ71W-MET, Engine # 1KZ-TE that is giving him fits. We have struggled through some long distance communication problems trying to diagnose (help there is nonexistent). I think the lift pump is bad (it is a vane pump built into the IP), but I want to throw it out for opinions. Right now it will crank and start, but then runs rough, dies and blows white smoke. There was oil in the inlet between the turbo and the throttle (didn't know anyone but us still used one!) so I had him route the crankcase breather to a catch bottle. If anyone has the patience they can read his text below, and thanks for opinions!
Dear Phil,

I have had ongoing problems with my car. A local mechanic has worked on it and it has gotten worse. I need the help of a good mechanic, you. I will tell you the whole history as best as I know:

First it began stalling while going at slow speeds. Sometimes there was a noise like if you try to go in reverse while going forward, only the noise came from up front, then it would stop and upon starting there would be white smoke at tailpipe. Then it began to stop at speed, sometimes with that noise, sometimes not, sometimes smoke sometimes not. Then it made that noise long and loud and began to go fast without me pressing on the peddle. At that point I shut it off and it appeared out of fuel. We added fuel and it started and behaved normal. Then it continued stalling as before. The fittings to the injectors were backed off while running and a little air came out. It continued to stall and one morning it became hard starting. It would catch and die with clouds of white smoke. It finally went, but the next morning it did the same, but would not go. The local mechanic took the injectors to Kampala and they tested OK. It is still doing the same thing, when you try to start it, it catches and then dies with lots of white smoke. You can try to start it all day with the same results. The local mechanic worked on it for two hours, and it does the same. He wants to take the pump apart, but at this point, I am not sure I want him to do that.

Looking at the book and the car, this is what I see. The injectors have no electrical connections and from the book, it looks like there is just a plunger and spring inside. I assume that it has to build up pressure to overcome the spring before it will inject.

There is a butterfly “throttle” valve in the intake that controls engine speed.

Going by the book and what I can see, the pump is driven off the timing belt and has a vane pump inside that draws fuel out of the tank and fills the pump body. Then there is a single plunger that is driven by a four lobed cam plate, which supplies the high pressure, and distributes it to the right cylinder. There is no throttle connection to the pump. There is the fuel cutoff solenoid, which seems to be working. There is a governor inside with flyweights that dumps the high pressure fuel. There is something that times the injection by rotating the four lobed cam plate. It looks like it might be a hydraulic piston and spring. There is what seems to be an electrical speed sensor on top. There are delivery valves at each outlet to the injectors according to the book. That appears to be it as far as the fuel system goes.

What does white smoke mean? Black smoke looks like soot, or too rich, to me. How does this thing know how much fuel to inject? I do not see anything that varies the amount of fuel.

One thing bothers me. This mechanic said the sump needed to be cleaned. I think that I told you that I had trouble with changing oil. When I add new oil, very slowly, checking the level on the dipstick, it sometimes overfills or under fills. After I have driven it for a while, I have to drain off or add oil, and it seems to take less oil than what the book says it should. Have you ever heard of sludge build up in the pan?

I have stopped the mechanic and am waiting to hear fro you.

#2

I dont know much about diesels, but I do know white smoke is unburned fuel. Unless its mistaken as steam, which is usually a blown head gasket, or coolant entering the combustion chamber.

#3

I agree, don't think it is steam, and he has no other symptoms of head gasket failure, no over heating, no water in oil or oil in water. The old man used to be pretty handy with a wrench but it's been a few years. Even so I think he could tell about a head gasket.

#4

There is a butterfly “throttle” valve in the intake that controls engine speed.

throttle plate in manifold---if it is vac operated it is a cold start warm up flap that shuts off the air when at cold idle.i cant imagine it is for egr unless its a used jap import [the Y prefix in the model code may be jap demomestic market] most of these engine are fly by wire i cant see how they could work other wise.some have a cable throttle that shuts off at idle,these are throw backs or left overs.

after writing here i did a google and the news is not good.
1KZ-T is an early prado 3 liter 4 cyl sold as a baby landcruiser--not in australia--but are common in counties like new zealand.
later modern shape aust prado has 1KZ-TE and are common.these engines are like a 3.0 4 cyl patrol.
i would think that a JDM spec prado/landcruiser would have got the update engine before the export version was built.

ebay 260086621797 work shop manual.

1KZ-TE also adopt the electronically controlled fuel injection, ETCS-i (Electronic Throttle Control System - intelligent) technology which is similar in basic construction to a modern gasoline injector, although utilizing considerably higher injection pressures, making it a very efficient engine.

wikapedia

2 versions of this idea and i think its the later-hence the bad news.
1 a VE pump with a ecu controlled throttle-livable easy to fix.

2 early common rail electronic fuel injection..these need a good fuel pressure supply and have no place being in a developing nation[INC RURAL AUST].they als need items like air flow meters etc that measure the air flow to decide how much fuel.wiki pedia quotes the model number having a 1KZ-T and as it is a 93 model you may be unlucky in that its a runout model with a newer engine that you cant buy parts for.in australia a buick V6[holden 3.8] conversion would cost less than an IP.it would be a better deal.

its very common for fuel lift pump to die due to poor fuel quality[or pump quality],i think it will be an electric pump like a benz around 60+ PSI.these last a few years with extra filters added.

i can help a little if you get desportate.

#5

Thanks Dave, I will try to determine whether it is common rail or not. I don't think it is since Dad says there are no electricla connection on the injectors and also each has a separate pipe going to it from the IP.
When he went over there I told him to get an old Toyota or Nissan diesel. I guess I should have been more specific, like 20-30 years old!

#6

hino [toyota] has the electrics at the ip in larger trucks

#7

toyota normally crack heads and bubble in the radiator.then the block fails or rusts.

ive seen blocks with bits missing due to casting problems when new but im gessing its a fuel problem.

cant go wrong with a 6 cyl troop carrier.unless you want to transport people.

#8

i was thinking-your early landruiser most likely the same as a earlyelectronic toyota surf [JDM hilux],these 2.8/3.0 use a throttle body with a position sencor and map sencor.some have air mass sencor aswell.

the idea is these are early electronic diesels and not fly by wire-- if it all fails the throttle plate will slow it down.

if you know RPM and throttle angle then map will give a load amount that a basic ecu can work with to calculate fuel.these use a normal injector pump with an electronic throttle.

latter engines use a air mass meter so the trottle plate is optional.
rpm and air mass for a given throttle possition equal load.simple.

most of the surf are turbo so when the throttle is clossed the turbo stalls.then there is a big flat spot while the turbo revs up again.2.4 toyota cars[crown]use ceramic turbo with variable shape compressor housings.

#9

Yes, I think that is what he has, see:

The small throttle is controlled by a double vacuum diaphragm that is controlled by two electric valves. It is sprung open. It looks like a lot of oil has been coming out around the shaft of this throttle, only on the side where the vacuum is. Enough oil has come out to coat the starter and run down to the bottom of the bell housing. This puzzles me because nothing has come out the other end of the shaft.

There is a sensor in the top of the air filter where the rubber pipe goes to the turbo. Looks like a flow sensor. A black plastic probe, end about 3/16 dia. in the air passage. (edit: I say this is air temp not flow, PB)

There is a computer in the console between the seats. The fuel pump has a sensor on top that is probably RPM of governor shaft. It has four electrical connectors on the side. One looks like it might be sensing the cam plate angle or injection timing. I have no idea what the others are – the book does not show any electrical connectors on the pump.

The injectors have no electrical connections and look to be just an orifice, plunger and spring from the book. There is a manifold to drain back the excess fuel to the pump.

The main throttle has a throttle position sensor.

#10

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-LANDCRUISE ... lyZ1QQpvZ2

i found lots that call this common rail.and they have small filters in silly spots like the fuel tank.i found a compliants corner that would stop you thinking about owning one.

from this picture it looks like an electronic controlled ve pump.
but i found https://www.toyota.co.jp/en/environment ... p18_19.pdf
and it looks more like this.

#11

Does this car have any sort of data link connector?

I would pull a wiring diagram and check which sensors are sent a reference voltage from the ecu (tps is one) and check the reference voltage at the time the car has a fit.

If it's compromised, there is either a sensor with a short or resistive short to ground on the reference voltage input (very common) .

If your reference voltage is what it is supposed to be, check the output of the sensor with an ohmeter and see if it changes per factory service manual.

#12

Wow, thanks for all the help guys. I haven't been able to raise my dad for a couple days, but I have sent him everything we have been discussing, plus the picture of the engine, that is a big help.
I had bought him a FSM off ebay UK but it seems like there are a lot of things different on the actual car. Of course we have no idea if it is JDM or export or what.
Thanks again for the input!
Phil

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