Driveshaft replacement

#1

The rear most u-joint on my sedan appears to be going out. I didnt drop it out yet and feel the joints, but the symptoms are as clear as day. Driveshaft speed vibration while accelelrating at 10-15 mph, regardless of rpm, a howl at higher speeds. Rear appears to be ok, it has fluid in it with no metal shavings.

Only thing is any FLAPS around me dosent appear to carry u- joints, and I wouldnt mind swapping it out for a 1 pc, so I dont have to replace the center brg later on. Anybody replace one for a 1 pc yet? If anybody has a good shop that they know, thatll carry the yokes required, ill channel my purchase through them.

#2

After a little bit of hunting, and calling around and getting about 400 for a 1 pc to be made up. I started looking around for u joints, I tried autozone's website, and came up with two that im probably gonna buy, It lists one with a 1.103" cup and another one with a .867" cup. Im assuming here that the 1.xxx cup is for the front piece and the .867 is for the rears, but I am not 100% sure. I dont have access to my floor jack right now so I dont think ill be lookin quite yet, does anybody know what is the proper size for each of the joints? I wanna get started on ordering them over here before I spin the caps in the yokes.

Also, How are Neapco u joints? I never heard of em and im curious to see what their country of origin are.

#3

The u-joints are not designed to be replaceable. See this thread.

#4

Try a catalog that includes PTO u-joints as that is the only place I see u-joints as small as the original units.

I used one out of a forklift (don't remember which one) and tack welded the cups to the yoke.

It's lasted a year behind a turbocharged L24e but it's getting a bit of play..........that and the fact that the literature states no more than 25hp should go through the joint.

It might be best to get driveshaft from a higher horsepower nissan that fits the output shaft of your tranny and have the machine shop tailor it to your dimensions since the joints used there are most likely a bit bigger.

#5

Al, I see what you mean with the non-serviceable kinds, they are staked u joints. Took a quick peek under the car propped on a curb. Also revealed some loose heat shields that I gotta tack back on.

HowlerMonkey, how hard was it for you to pull the old caps off? I know Rockford industries sells u joints for staked u joint replacement- they give you circlips that go on the inside of the yokes to hold the caps in place.

I dont know if its worth my effort and frustration in replacing them, I dont know if its easy to remove the old ones. But Id rather spend less than more, but everybody knows that dosent work with me. If the old joints come out without damaging the yoke, ill try replacing the joints, but I dont think im expecting much here.

I never noticed this but the rear pc. joints are terribly undersized, im surprised I pulled 211k out of em.

#6

asavage wrote:The u-joints are not designed to be replaceable. See this thread.

FWIW, I've had to have two diesel Maxima drive shafts 'rebuilt' over the years. The last one was about two years ago. My local machine shop sent it wherever he has custom shafts made for his stock cars. Charged me a whole $75!

I've been a happy camper.

#7

The circlips that seat on the inner surface of the yokes require that that surface be both machined and centered, neither of which is the case on the OEM Nissan yokes. While you can physically put the circlips in, the cross will not be centered and driveline vibration will result.

I only wish it were that easy . . .

#8

retired wrote: Charged me a whole $75!
CORRECTION... Total bill including removal/re-installation was $100. I think Gary took pity on me on the cost.

I believe the shop changed the U-joints to use their heavier-duty standard parts and rebalanced it. It might be worth a call for you to see where he shipped it for the rebuild.

Gary at Quality Machine
North Myrtle Beach, SC 29568
843.399.4110

#9

I got lucky as mine had been replaced before and had already been properly machined but...................I spent weeks trying every single source of U-joints and could not find the exact replacement.

It seems most u-joints are larger and any driveshaft plans should definately include using larger and more available joints for the sake of future servicing.

#10

My driveshaft obtained from a JY finally made it to my door. To my surprise, it appears to be a 1 Pc. unit made from a shop. Replacable actual clip in u joints. Once I find out of its straight or not, im set for life on a 70 dollar shaft. The only thing is the yoke that goes into the tailshaft of the tranny has a light coating of rust on it. Should I attempt to wirebrush or sandpaper this off? I dont wish to cook the output shaft seal

#11

kassim503 wrote: the yoke that goes into the tailshaft of the tranny has a light coating of rust on it. Should I attempt to wirebrush or sandpaper this off?

Yes, the rust should be removed because it is above the mean surface and will act as an abrasive.

The rust pits left behind might still allow some ATF to escape, but the seal's wear will not be nearly as great as from the rust above the surface.

#12

Yup, I did just that. Wire brushed it, moved up to 400 grit, and polished it with some 600. It was just surface rust, there was no pitting on the shaft, thankfully. Also brushed up the rear flange a little with the wire brush. Just finished installing it. The original 2 pc came out without a hitch. The only thing is that the 1 pc has no flex in the middle, and I had to pull the sway bar and parking brake cable to get it in. Spun it on the jacks, I felt a little bit of floating around 15 mph and a little noise at higher speeds, somewhere around 45 mph. Tried it again, went hitch free. My guess is something was stuck in somewhere and got pushed out after I spooled it up. Will see tomorrow when I take it for a road test. Hopefully the shaft will be straight and balanced. I dont think ill like taking it out again.

The autopsy of the old shaft revealed a notchy front joint, loose rear joint and alot of lateral play in the center bearing.

#13

kassim503 wrote:The autopsy of the old shaft revealed a notchy front joint

Yup, that's what was giving my Wagon a bad vibration below 25 for years. I've got a couple of bad front cores here, in case I ever find a need to rebuild them myself.

#14

Took her out for the first drive, silky smooth! Also elminated thumps and what was the suspected play from the differential. The car is a pleasure to drive again

#15

Im just going to add this Q onto this thread, dont feel it deserves a whole thread started for it.

I have a bit of play in my rear diff. Appears to just be play in the spider gears, but creates a thumping when shifting gears. Money woes means I dont prefer rebuilding or replacing the differential.

Im currently running 80w-90, IIRC. Mabye straight 80w. I am considering running a thicker lube to possibly create more of a cushion between parts, along the lines of a 90-140 weight oil. The ambient operating temperature of it should be somewhere around 0-40 degrees farenheit. Anybody think this may promote bearing and gear wear? Would this even soften up the thumping and slamming? Its a hunch, more of a far shot. The differential is already a little beat, but I want to keep driving on it until spring or so. (mabye another 8k miles on it tops)

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