Car really hard to start?

[asavage]

wouldn't you accomplish the same thing by bridging the two posts on the relay with a screw driver?

Yeah, but it's hard on the screwdriver, and buggers the terminal threads and removes the plating so that they rust.

I think I'd pull one or two GPs (they're easy to pull, it's the bus that's tough) and do a bench check: see how long till they glow red. I can get a comparison time on an OEM GP (after the weekend).

[die stink]

First off, Thanks to all of you for really great and useful info to continue the restoration work. There is a lot of p.o. info. here so that gives me some history. The glow plugs are not working correctly. plugs are new but testing shows they need 15 sec. to fully glow there champions and i think there taking to long to fully glow? I jumpered with heavy gauge wire to start 10 secs it starts right up idles fine on all 6 cyl. I drove it home a little under 200 miles. I checked it out before i left of coarse.first thing i noticed is thermostat was not closing heavy nailing possibly injectors or to much carbon? Hit a nice snow storm at night outside of Klamath falls Ore. on the way home it made the trip more interesting ! Well next day i went trouble shooting this cream puff, car its almost perfect here is what i noticed that dosent work. Thermostat, glow system ,there was a half inch extra oil on dip,Air filter fine. Changed oil and filter first thing . trans also over filled clean atf. I checked fuel filter looks new no water also drained a little fuel from tank and little bitts of crap but no water, but there is heavy rusting on inside of the fuel cap, so I am thinking there was moistuer at one time in tank. The intake is gross inside not good needs cleaning.I cracked each injector hitting on all 6 cyl. I replaced stat. with the by pass one . A little smoke at start and acceleration once warm no smoke at idle only under load. How do i check blow by with cap on valve cover hose really blows out? I wonder if injectors are bad and no therm. how can one check timing? I checked fuel mileage to see hows she running upper twenties aprox. I drove up to about 6000 el. no overheating but i think fan clutch is out . So am i correct to have injectors checked out first? Could that have somthing to do with blow by and nailing sound like ball bearings in the cyl.. Theres some oil around the head gasket should i be concerned ? Once injectors are good should i check the timing is that correct? Thanks Paul Also any tips or directions for using this forum?

[asavage]

First off, Thanks to all of you for really great and useful info to continue the restoration work. There is a lot of p.o. info. here so that gives me some history.

If you need the front turn sigs, PM me.

The glow plugs are not working correctly. plugs are new but testing shows they need 15 sec. to fully glow there champions and i think there taking to long to fully glow? I jumpered with heavy gauge wire to start 10 secs it starts right up idles fine on all 6 cyl.

That confirms my guess that the CH60 is not a fast glow plug.

heavy nailing possibly injectors or to much carbon?

Light nailing can be wrong fuel (gasoline in fuel?), very heavily advanced timing, or an injector dribbling. Usually the injector, in my experience.

If you have a LOT of extra oil in the crankcase and it gets pushed to the intake, you can get nailing, but it's accompanied by a LOT of smoke and unintended acceleration.

. . . Thermostat . . .

It's a special thermostat.

The intake is gross inside not good needs cl
eaning.

Common problem.

how can one check timing?

With great difficulty No. 1

Mechanical timing adapter fabrication

I checked fuel mileage to see hows she running upper twenties aprox.

That's what I get in my '82 Wagon: 25-31 (mostly 27).

I'm leaving your other Qs for someone else . . . I can't have all the fun!

[die stink]

What is the best glow plug for the ld 28? I here Beru plugs are very good but there 6.5 volts does that mean faster glow? Also wheres a good place to send fuel injectors? Also Al I would like to by right sig cover. I am not real computer savy whats pm I can pay any way you like. Thanks Paul

[goglio704]

NGK plugs are good plugs. I'd avoid Champion or Autolite. Typically, plugs that are rated less than twelve volts are a fast glow type. By driving them with more voltage than they can stand continuously, they heat very quickly. They also overheat quickly and burn out if they are energized at twelve volts for too long. This is the reason for the glow plug controller. It automates the process and keeps the plugs from running too long and burning out. The plugs are only run at twelve volts for a brief time before a large resistor is switched into the circuit to drop the voltage.

[asavage]

Also wheres a good place to send fuel injectors?

The place I'd been using has gone out of business, but "any" diesel shop that does injector rebuilding should be able to rebuild yours. You'll probably need new nozzles (an internal injector part) rather than just clean-n-adjust, but even so, you'll only be paying $50-65 ea, which is in-line with rebuilding other makes of injectors.

I would like to by right sig cover. I am not real computer savy whats pm I can pay any way you like.

PM = "Private Message". It's like email, only it's specific to this board, and it allows folks to have private conversations without revealing email addresses or annoying the world at large with stuff that doesn't need to be public. There's a button at the bottom of this message that says "PM". Select it, and you're taken to a Compose screen, and when you're done, the msg goes to my Inbox here at NissanDiesel, and the next time I log in, a popup tells me that I have a msg waiting.

I offered the PO (Previous Owner) the front sigs free, just pay shipping. Do you want only one? PM me your address that can accept packages, and I'll mail one or two to you. Send me a few bux to the return address on the box when you get it/them.

[asavage]

Also, the owner previous to the owner you bought it from, posted in this thread.

[die stink]

Well finally got time to do some work. Had the injectors rebuilt and replaced the nozzles. They were pretty bad according to the shop that did the work. Also went over the timing it was off a tooth on the belt. The pump was almost a quarter inch off the mark. The prob. was there is no mark on the crank because the shield in front of the crank seal spins freely. To get it right took a lot of reading and studying pictures. I discovered the mark is not totally vertical It took two tries but it was a huge improvement. It starts runs, idles better very little smoke. Hope there is no permanent damage to the engine.
My problem is should I remove the crank shield as it spins freely? Could it cause problems or damage something?
Also, does anyone know if the gas Maxima share the same drive line. tranny, and rear differiential as the diesel ? I was offered a gas max for cheap with 89,000 miles and wondering wich parts might be interchangeable. Thanks, Paul

[kassim503]

most things are interchangable, rear diff will fit, cv axles are identical, but the driveshafts are different between the manual and auto trannies, but everything else is just about the same.

[die stink]

Does the auto tranny interchange, are the gear ratios in the diff. the same?

[kassim503]

I beleive the mt uses 3.54:1 while the at uses 3.73's or something of that accord. At models are taller. However you can get anything ranging from a 3.54 to 4.56's using diffs out of other cars that share the R180 differential

[asavage]

While you can probably bolt up an (X)nN71b from a L24e to an LD28, the gear ratios, and especially the valving and torque converter, are different, as well as the part Nos. for the clutch packs. Will it move? I think so. But it won't shift right and won't have overrev protection.

I've got a known-good 1983 L4N71b from a Sedan that I'd make you a heck of a deal on, if you want to try. Bear in mind that the OD trans (the "4" in the model No.) will not backfit into 1981-2 Maxima/910/Bluebird chassis; the tunnel in the floor pan was modified for the larger trans cross-section at the rear, for 1983. And the back of the 1983 AT sits in a cradle/subframe.