Land Rover question Windsock
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Land Rover question Windsock
Hey got a quick question for you. I installed my LD28 into my rover frame today, went to install the pressure plate and clutch and the guy must have gave me the wrong set. They are for a Rover V8. (my LD28 motor was previously in a land rover). Anyway, the clutch itself is to big 10.5 diameter as is the pressure plate. I thought he said he had redrilled the pressure plate to fit but no way that is going to work. What did you do? Luckily I have the adapter for the V8 bellhousing and a LT85 and the bushing for the flywheel. Thinking I might need a Maxima pressure plate and maybe a series rover clutch? Let me know if you can. Thanks Gordo.
- exmod110
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The diesel clutch and pressure plate fit. it is smaller then the v8. if it has been drilled for a rover clutch that is the one it was prob drilled for.
if you can remove the nissan dowels the rover diesel clutch bolts up.
But this is to an lt77 trans.. not sure if the spline count or size is the same between lt85 and lt77????
if you can remove the nissan dowels the rover diesel clutch bolts up.
But this is to an lt77 trans.. not sure if the spline count or size is the same between lt85 and lt77????
85 Landrover 110 300tdi
02 Mazda protege5
02 Mazda protege5
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G'day JasperG,
yes, it is as exmod110 states, use the landrover diesel clutch gear and make sure you get the anti-rattle friction plate. Saves your drives for conversation not clutch rattles.
I am at work currently but once I get home I can go look at the box it all arrived in to see if the part numbers are listed.
I had my flywheel planed and redrilled for the correct dowl spacing.
I have used the LT77 housing and gearbox so any advise I can give is specific to that. I am not familiar with the LT85 gear.
The bushing I had made up had to get pressed into the flywheel as the LT77 shaft wouldn't reach the usual location in the crank. The gearbox shaft did however just make contact with the flat surface of the crank so I had to take a sixteenth of an inch off to ensure no contact could be made between the crank and the gearbox shaft. I had a steel press-fit bush made up top press into the flywheel to suit the contact surface of the shaft and into that I pressed the usual Land Rover spigot bush.
Take a look at your clutch lever yoke arm or what ever you like to call it. Sometimes these can collapse around the pivot point and reinforcement now while it is out can be a good thing.
On a separate issue but still about LD28 into a rover chassis. How have you made your engine mounts? I spent all weekend rebuilding a collapsed mount. I ran over some very rough ground and gave the truck a very hard time a few weeks back and while changing the oil this weekend gone I discovered I had broken one bolt of two on the longer engine mount under the fuel pump. I broke the bottom bolt and this led to the top bolt taking the weight until the leverage got too much and the engine mount broke. I'll admit to it being underengineered to start with as when I did the engine swap I only had 50mm by 5mm flat bar steel to work with and so it was designed around this. I have since rebuilt the engine mount out of 75mm by 6mm flat bar steel and replaced the mounting bolts with high tensile cap screws. The fellow at the bolt shop said the broken one was most likely only mild steel. All mount bolts were the factory nissan bolts and obviously not intended to take the offset weight of the engine over rough terrain. Luckily the sheered bolt left me with two whole threads exposed so i was able to turn a nut on and weld it to the broken one and turned oit out as normal. Rebulding a larger mount around all the fuel lines of the IP is no fun. Especially when it was the only fine weekend we have had in about two months...
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Phil
yes, it is as exmod110 states, use the landrover diesel clutch gear and make sure you get the anti-rattle friction plate. Saves your drives for conversation not clutch rattles.
I am at work currently but once I get home I can go look at the box it all arrived in to see if the part numbers are listed.
I had my flywheel planed and redrilled for the correct dowl spacing.
I have used the LT77 housing and gearbox so any advise I can give is specific to that. I am not familiar with the LT85 gear.
The bushing I had made up had to get pressed into the flywheel as the LT77 shaft wouldn't reach the usual location in the crank. The gearbox shaft did however just make contact with the flat surface of the crank so I had to take a sixteenth of an inch off to ensure no contact could be made between the crank and the gearbox shaft. I had a steel press-fit bush made up top press into the flywheel to suit the contact surface of the shaft and into that I pressed the usual Land Rover spigot bush.
Take a look at your clutch lever yoke arm or what ever you like to call it. Sometimes these can collapse around the pivot point and reinforcement now while it is out can be a good thing.
On a separate issue but still about LD28 into a rover chassis. How have you made your engine mounts? I spent all weekend rebuilding a collapsed mount. I ran over some very rough ground and gave the truck a very hard time a few weeks back and while changing the oil this weekend gone I discovered I had broken one bolt of two on the longer engine mount under the fuel pump. I broke the bottom bolt and this led to the top bolt taking the weight until the leverage got too much and the engine mount broke. I'll admit to it being underengineered to start with as when I did the engine swap I only had 50mm by 5mm flat bar steel to work with and so it was designed around this. I have since rebuilt the engine mount out of 75mm by 6mm flat bar steel and replaced the mounting bolts with high tensile cap screws. The fellow at the bolt shop said the broken one was most likely only mild steel. All mount bolts were the factory nissan bolts and obviously not intended to take the offset weight of the engine over rough terrain. Luckily the sheered bolt left me with two whole threads exposed so i was able to turn a nut on and weld it to the broken one and turned oit out as normal. Rebulding a larger mount around all the fuel lines of the IP is no fun. Especially when it was the only fine weekend we have had in about two months...
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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Hiya JasperG,
Clutch kit is an APDrivelines one and is the proud possessor of two numbers...
I think the AP number is KT9773 which in Land Rover speak corresponds to STC8355BB. It is labelled a 3 in 1 clutch kit and contained the pressure plate, friction plate and thrust bearing.
Oh, and by the way, I was thinking on the way home, the clearance of the idler shaft of the gearbox from the end of the crank is a function of the adapter plate thickness. Mine was cast aliminium and allowed a contact. Your one may be different so maybe check it out.
All the best.
Phil
Clutch kit is an APDrivelines one and is the proud possessor of two numbers...
I think the AP number is KT9773 which in Land Rover speak corresponds to STC8355BB. It is labelled a 3 in 1 clutch kit and contained the pressure plate, friction plate and thrust bearing.
Oh, and by the way, I was thinking on the way home, the clearance of the idler shaft of the gearbox from the end of the crank is a function of the adapter plate thickness. Mine was cast aliminium and allowed a contact. Your one may be different so maybe check it out.
All the best.
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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Thank you so much guys. This is great info. I will get the LR kit you mentioned Phil and then if not already done, will get the flywheel adapted. My engine adapter is steel and is pretty thin. Like I said the guy who had it before me ran a LT85, but it was the short bellhousing one on a 101FC. It already has a brass bush for the flywheel but I will be sure the shaft fits in correctly. Thanks for all the tips...Much appreciated. Gordo
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Hi Gordo,
Just be aware the numbers I give are specific to the LT77. It is a fine spline shaft so I did a quick search on the differences between the two and they look to be same or similar.
From Ashcroft Transmissions.
V8 clutch
TDi Clutch kit (product details would indicate this is the same as mine - AP Borg & Beck kit)
Good luck.
Phil
Just be aware the numbers I give are specific to the LT77. It is a fine spline shaft so I did a quick search on the differences between the two and they look to be same or similar.
From Ashcroft Transmissions.
V8 clutch
TDi Clutch kit (product details would indicate this is the same as mine - AP Borg & Beck kit)
Good luck.
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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- Posts: 144
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Sorry Gordo, this is where my knowledge and your clutch requirements part company.JasperG wrote:Also the clutch shaft on the LT85 is a 10 spline. Any idea if the diesel clutch is as well? thanks Gordo
Is the gearbox 4speed or 5speed? Is there an integrated transferbox or is it a separate transfer box?
If the answer is yes to the first bits of each question, it sounds like it'll be an LT95.
I have not seen a coarse spline (10 count) shaft on an LT85.
Cheers,
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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Hi Gordo,
I tried to edit the previous post to include a few pictures but the site wasn't going to have it on.
Does it look like this one below?
Is so, then this is an LT95.
In which case you'll most likely need something like this kit found on the Australian eBay site. I just measured the ones I have here and 240mm (9.5in) diameter of friction plate is what you're after in a 10 spline kit. Most of the Series LR plates would most likely be OK. Caveat emptor though, this could get tricky.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Phil
I tried to edit the previous post to include a few pictures but the site wasn't going to have it on.
Does it look like this one below?
Is so, then this is an LT95.
In which case you'll most likely need something like this kit found on the Australian eBay site. I just measured the ones I have here and 240mm (9.5in) diameter of friction plate is what you're after in a 10 spline kit. Most of the Series LR plates would most likely be OK. Caveat emptor though, this could get tricky.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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Phil I really appreciate your help and replies! It must be an LT95, sure thought it was an LT85 but clearly Im wrong here. It is an integrated tbox, vacuum operated, and is a 4spd. It was pulled out of a series with a v8 conversion so I dont know exactly what it was in originally but suspect it was a early rangie.
I was already looking at the series clutch as the diameter is right. The flywheel on the LD28 has a groove where the clutch must ride. I measured it and it is 9 inches across. I see the early series2 had a 9 inch plate and the later ones had a 9.5 inch plate. Id imagine either will work. Going to try to borrow some used series bits to try and make some sense of it. At least Im heading in the right direction! MANY THANKS Gordo
I was already looking at the series clutch as the diameter is right. The flywheel on the LD28 has a groove where the clutch must ride. I measured it and it is 9 inches across. I see the early series2 had a 9 inch plate and the later ones had a 9.5 inch plate. Id imagine either will work. Going to try to borrow some used series bits to try and make some sense of it. At least Im heading in the right direction! MANY THANKS Gordo
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You're welcome Gordo, it is a fun time transplanting motors and you have a neat project on your hands there.
The LT95 is a tough old box with some good variety of ratios available so it'll be interesting to see what your speeds turn out like. They also came out in the Series 3s Stage 1 V8s. Early 110's and 90's in the V8 livery came out with these boxes also until it was replaced by the LT77. A few guys on the AULRO.com website run these boxes behind the Isuzu 4BD1-T motor in 110's.
All the best. Look forward to a build thread sometime.
Cheers,
Phil
The LT95 is a tough old box with some good variety of ratios available so it'll be interesting to see what your speeds turn out like. They also came out in the Series 3s Stage 1 V8s. Early 110's and 90's in the V8 livery came out with these boxes also until it was replaced by the LT77. A few guys on the AULRO.com website run these boxes behind the Isuzu 4BD1-T motor in 110's.
All the best. Look forward to a build thread sometime.
Cheers,
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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The 4BD1 110 perentie box was a V8 box with the bell housing change.
I grabed a few as as scrap.shafts in the trans box was upgraded so that they could operate for some time without oil.
5 speed 3.9D had a different ratio to V8 but I think the V8 would be better suited.
leyland P76 4.4 uses a falcon/valiant 3 bolt pressure plate.inc the terrier truck twin plate.
it uses the chrysler fine spline clutch and gear box not the ford corse spline.
when fitted to rangerovers extra bolts are used to reduce judder but the clutch is the same dia.
bought a 1986 3.5 EFI 5 speed range rover as tow vehicle.
got dudded on a 3.9D 109 stage1 cab chasis $2500.
was offered a disco with dodgey TDi just waiting to look at it.
I grabed a few as as scrap.shafts in the trans box was upgraded so that they could operate for some time without oil.
5 speed 3.9D had a different ratio to V8 but I think the V8 would be better suited.
leyland P76 4.4 uses a falcon/valiant 3 bolt pressure plate.inc the terrier truck twin plate.
it uses the chrysler fine spline clutch and gear box not the ford corse spline.
when fitted to rangerovers extra bolts are used to reduce judder but the clutch is the same dia.
bought a 1986 3.5 EFI 5 speed range rover as tow vehicle.
got dudded on a 3.9D 109 stage1 cab chasis $2500.
was offered a disco with dodgey TDi just waiting to look at it.
WCJR31 Skyline.3.0 manual.wagon
R31 SKYLINE/Passage GT/PINTARA
LPG Ford Falcon 99-06 93 Disco
Local Shire Southern Zone Mechanic.
R31 SKYLINE/Passage GT/PINTARA
LPG Ford Falcon 99-06 93 Disco
Local Shire Southern Zone Mechanic.
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Hey Gordo,
Now theres some good news right there! Good to hear. If you haven't already bought a new friction plate ask about the possibl.ity of an anti-rattle friction plate. I really don't know if they are available in the coarse spline version but if so then is worth it for the quiet idle.
Have you looked at that Australian land rover website for the good info on the LT95. Much info there and there may be one or two things you could check while it is on the garage floor.
Looking forward to hearing of more progress... ...always will have a soft-spot for the old series body shape, but the addition of coils instead of cart springs and better brakes will really make it a better truck.
Cheers,
Phil
Now theres some good news right there! Good to hear. If you haven't already bought a new friction plate ask about the possibl.ity of an anti-rattle friction plate. I really don't know if they are available in the coarse spline version but if so then is worth it for the quiet idle.
Have you looked at that Australian land rover website for the good info on the LT95. Much info there and there may be one or two things you could check while it is on the garage floor.
Looking forward to hearing of more progress... ...always will have a soft-spot for the old series body shape, but the addition of coils instead of cart springs and better brakes will really make it a better truck.
Cheers,
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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