Engine Rebuild

Discuss (and cuss) the Nissan LD-series OHC Six diesel engine, popularly available in the US in 1981-83 Datsun/Nissan Maxima Sedans & Wagons.

Moderators:plenzen, goglio704, glenlloyd, Nissan_Ranger

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bogs777
Posts:33
Joined:9 years ago
Engine Rebuild

#1

Post by bogs777 » 8 years ago

i would like to know what are the things needed to go about rebuilding my LD28 engine. it has worked its way to exist til today so im planning to give it a rebuild as reward. if someone could guide me from scratch since im not a pro and i get most of the infos i have from this site. ive read some threads about their rebuild and most of the time im confused. i would like to know more info about re-boring, getting the correct head gasket. my cam shaft split into two few months back and after that my LD28 hasnt been in condition.
C32 Laurel, LD28, Black/White, 330k

http://www.gofundme.com/7artao

rlaggren
Posts:541
Joined:13 years ago
Location:San Francisco

#2

Post by rlaggren » 8 years ago

Basically time, $$$ and endurance. Lots more of each than you could ever believe. Here's the newbie-101 version, the high points - take whatever helps.

Parts, of course, a bunch of tools and the FSM. If you have not rebuilt any engines before, spend a lot of time (20-30+ hours) reading about it. More time spent learning (the good stuff) less cost in time, screw-ups and $$$ later. The only way I know to recognize good info is it to wade through whole libraries and talk for hours until you learn to recognize different kinds like BS, Quik-&-Useless, Real-Info and THIS-IS-GOD-TALKING-LISTEN-UP. <g>

You want to have a trustworthy machine shop for stuff like boring and head work and anything else that might come along. It's worth your time (again quite a few hours) to inquire and talk with as many prospective local shops as possible, find who their customers are and talk with a few. Dig. It's worth the hassle to find good jobbers. The person actually doing the work is likely at least as important as the shop as a whole. Some shops do mostly one thing and while they have the equipment, don't really have much experience in a lot of areas. Check it out as much as you possible can - it's part of ending up w/a good job.

If you can find somebody experienced (with good results behind him) who is doing a rebuild (any type of engine) try to spend lots of hours helping them - it will likely save you as many hours and more when you do your own.

The main gotcha as far as I know for the LD28 is the head gasket. You have to locate that and also get all the other gaskets (probably in a kit or two) needed to rebuild your engine. In your case the other item IIRC is the cam. Don't recall if you found one; if not you might have to buy a complete engine to get one and if that is the case you might as well try real hard to buy an engine that comes already crated for transportation in a car and runs just fine...

Persistence is required. Local diesel shops might help or they might think you're an idiot spending time with a has-been engine where it's hard to to find parts.

Besides know-how, parts and tools, you need a decent working space with power, OK temperatures and excellent light; also secure enough so you don't lose your tools all the time. A strong work bench with a good vise is practically a necessity and a flat concrete floor is a god-send because it lets you roll stuff around easily and use a creeper. Unless you're one of those gifted magicians, an engine whisperer <g>, you'll need this space for at least a month and more likely a year.

If the IP works, treat it like gold, mark carefully when removing so as _maybe_ you can get it back on and running w/out a big hassle. From all I've read this IP is WAY easier to time when the engine is out of the car; it requires special tools to do this. The IP can be bench tested at a good shop and this might be worth it if all else seems to be going well.

Good luck. Have fun.

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

Carimbo
Posts:460
Joined:15 years ago

#3

Post by Carimbo » 8 years ago

Might not need a full rebuild. The lower ends are pretty tough. You can pull the head (to check for bent valves from the broken camshaft) and check the bore conditions and decide from there.

Were you getting symptoms of an engine needing full overhaul?

bogs777
Posts:33
Joined:9 years ago

#4

Post by bogs777 » 8 years ago

thanks rufus and carimbo for the reply. forgot to update you guys that the workshop found a camshaft. dont know where it came from but it perfectly matches. im just worried about the noise and thinking of extending the life of the engine by rebuilding it. youre probably right Carimbo. not a full rebuilt i guess will do. i saw a head gasket manufacturer based in New Zealand and told me they have few gaskets left for LD28. just dont know what gasket thickness to get from them.
C32 Laurel, LD28, Black/White, 330k

http://www.gofundme.com/7artao

rlaggren
Posts:541
Joined:13 years ago
Location:San Francisco

#5

Post by rlaggren » 8 years ago

Good on the cam!

If you have the original gasket, there s/b notches on one side near the front. Search here (maybe "notches"?) to find the post that lists where they are exactly and what they mean. Or look in the FSM.

Please let us know the supplier if they get you a gasket. Others here have been looking for a while.

Rufus

bogs777
Posts:33
Joined:9 years ago

#6

Post by bogs777 » 8 years ago

will try to dig the gasket resource i found. hope that they have a lot in stock. as far as i remember it will cost around $260 NZ. ive been reading and learned that replacement gasket should have the same thickness as with the original gasket not unless shaving was done to the block. correct me if im wrong.
C32 Laurel, LD28, Black/White, 330k

http://www.gofundme.com/7artao

rlaggren
Posts:541
Joined:13 years ago
Location:San Francisco

#7

Post by rlaggren » 8 years ago

You want the original thickness but sometimes there isn't much choice in the matter. Do you have the original? If so you can mic the thickness and also check the notches (front passenger edge I think) and see what the original spec was.

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

bogs777
Posts:33
Joined:9 years ago

#8

Post by bogs777 » 8 years ago

havent taken it out yet. im afraid of leaving engine opened waiting for the replacement gasket. by the way Rufus acl.com.au has gasket for our LD28. you can inquire about this part number : DK081 - contains 1 head gasket, 1 exhaust manifold gasket, 1 inlet manifold gasket, 1 rocker cover gasket, 8 r/c bolt seals,12 valve stem seals, 1 thermostat gasket. hope they have enough stocks left four all of us. cant really afford to buy for myself now. times really tight for me right now
C32 Laurel, LD28, Black/White, 330k

http://www.gofundme.com/7artao

rlaggren
Posts:541
Joined:13 years ago
Location:San Francisco

#9

Post by rlaggren » 8 years ago

Thanks for that info. I'll save it, maybe drop them a msg, see what they have.

You may be able to tell which gasket you have by running a small screw driver along the gasket edge on the front 8-12" of the right side of the head - if you can reach it OK. Can't remember for sure what the access there is. The screwdriver should slip into the notches and you can count and see what you have.

Rufus
82 Maxima wagon

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