Torn Rear Axle Halfshaft Boot (Inner)
Moderators: plenzen, glenlloyd, goglio704, Nissan_Ranger
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Torn Rear Axle Halfshaft Boot (Inner)
Hi,
What are my options for repairing/replacing/obtaining an inner halfshaft CV boot? Pass. side.
Concerned if I let it go too long the dirt/water will destroy the CV joint.
I have successfully used split boot repair kits on other cars but have not been able to find one for the Maxima.
Tried using the method described in the FSM (pry w/ prybar) to remove the entire halfshaft from a junkyard Maxima but it would not budge. Prybar could not get enough purchase before slipping.
Anyone dealt with this before?
What are my options for repairing/replacing/obtaining an inner halfshaft CV boot? Pass. side.
Concerned if I let it go too long the dirt/water will destroy the CV joint.
I have successfully used split boot repair kits on other cars but have not been able to find one for the Maxima.
Tried using the method described in the FSM (pry w/ prybar) to remove the entire halfshaft from a junkyard Maxima but it would not budge. Prybar could not get enough purchase before slipping.
Anyone dealt with this before?
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I just got done replacing a set of inner and outer boots on one of my cars. I don't think you will find a split boot solution - I didn't. I also didn't find anybody offering reconditioned halfshafts for sale either. The inner boot actually has a metal band integral to the boot which has to be folded over to crimp it to the joint. Even better is the filing or grinding off the staked area of the shaft to remove the tripod from the shaft so you can install the boots. Then you have to restake it when you reassemble (I was sorely tempted to use loctite instead). The FSM has a pretty decent description of the process. It is pretty primitive if you ask me. Not one of Nissan's finer moments. If the FSM method of pulling the shaft out of the diff doesn't work you could try pulling the other side. If you get it out you will then be able to look through the diff and see the end of the shaft you want and maybe hit with a hammer and punch. I don't know if there is a difference in shaft length one side to the other. Anybody? Are they interchangeable one side to the other? Beck Arnley sells the boots.
Matt B.
83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
83 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 5 speed, white, 130k miles. My original Maxima.
83 Maxima Sedan converted from gasser, LD28, 5 speed, 2 tone blue, 230k miles
82 Maxima Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, 2 tone Gray/Silver, 140k miles
81 810 Sedan, LD28, 3 speed auto, rust, rust, and more rust!
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
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Carimbo:
I had the same experience as goglio704 on my first Maxi diesel. I was able to find a boot (15 yrs ago) but it was a PITA I also had one that was loose, meaning that you could shake it up and down on that halfshaft but the other side was ok. It would take two crowbars to get it out. Second method would be to have a prybar on one side and smack it with a 3lb hammer on the other. It ain't plastic... some like it rough.
I would recommend trying to get another shaft, but would probably wait until it got worse, or better weather, to worry about it.
Forget about the split boot idea...destined for failure, sounds good on paper though.
I haven't had trouble with 195/70/r14 hitting the fenderwell, but occasionally a 195/75r14 will. The 70 series tire is shorter/wider than the 75 series. If you like wide tires a 205/65r14 would most likely fit perfectly, but it is not a size of tire I find at the salvage yard. The last new tire I bought was down in Georgia on a trip in 1995. Not advocating that everyone should do that, my first job @ 16 was in a tire store. (I can patch, change and balance tires myself)
I had the same experience as goglio704 on my first Maxi diesel. I was able to find a boot (15 yrs ago) but it was a PITA I also had one that was loose, meaning that you could shake it up and down on that halfshaft but the other side was ok. It would take two crowbars to get it out. Second method would be to have a prybar on one side and smack it with a 3lb hammer on the other. It ain't plastic... some like it rough.
I would recommend trying to get another shaft, but would probably wait until it got worse, or better weather, to worry about it.
Forget about the split boot idea...destined for failure, sounds good on paper though.
I haven't had trouble with 195/70/r14 hitting the fenderwell, but occasionally a 195/75r14 will. The 70 series tire is shorter/wider than the 75 series. If you like wide tires a 205/65r14 would most likely fit perfectly, but it is not a size of tire I find at the salvage yard. The last new tire I bought was down in Georgia on a trip in 1995. Not advocating that everyone should do that, my first job @ 16 was in a tire store. (I can patch, change and balance tires myself)
- asavage
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The boot kits are available. NAPA CVB 1167 is around $25, comes with grease:
Beck-Arnley 1032280 is slightly cheaper:
ARI 4261167 is cheaper yet, though I've had some questionable early cracks with ARI's boots:
I like Locktite, but I don't think this would be a good place for it. Anerobic sealants work really well for some assys, but I have my doubts about this application. If no circlip groove is furnished, staking is a good second choice. Fortunately, this shouldn't have to be done that often. The CVs work in a pretty restricted arc, so they last a lot longer than your typical FWD CV joint.
There's a nifty tool for tightening the inner band clamp, and it's not too expensive at $16.
Whoops, that's for wind-up clamps. I see that the boot kits above come with the other style, so a different tool to tighten them:
I can't find any reman'd halfshafts for the sedan, but plenty of used ones in JYs, starting at $25, via car-part.com.
Beck-Arnley 1032280 is slightly cheaper:
ARI 4261167 is cheaper yet, though I've had some questionable early cracks with ARI's boots:
The external circlip would have been a better design, and I notice that the above kits furnish one, though I don't seen in the exploded view where it would be used. It's not the correct clip for retaining the stub in the diff.goglio704 wrote:The inner boot actually has a metal band integral to the boot which has to be folded over to crimp it to the joint. Even better is the filing or grinding off the staked area of the shaft to remove the tripod from the shaft so you can install the boots. Then you have to restake it when you reassemble (I was sorely tempted to use loctite instead). The FSM has a pretty decent description of the process. It is pretty primitive if you ask me. Not one of Nissan's finer moments.
I like Locktite, but I don't think this would be a good place for it. Anerobic sealants work really well for some assys, but I have my doubts about this application. If no circlip groove is furnished, staking is a good second choice. Fortunately, this shouldn't have to be done that often. The CVs work in a pretty restricted arc, so they last a lot longer than your typical FWD CV joint.
There's a nifty tool for tightening the inner band clamp, and it's not too expensive at $16.
Whoops, that's for wind-up clamps. I see that the boot kits above come with the other style, so a different tool to tighten them:
I can't find any reman'd halfshafts for the sedan, but plenty of used ones in JYs, starting at $25, via car-part.com.
Regards,
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
- asavage
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Carimbo, the '83 Sedan at the Pull-A-Part has both halfshafts still there as of Saturday. Unfortunately, it's going to rain all week.
It's a brown sedan, forth "row" (second "aisle") from the south fence (that is, about two aisles to the south), about 2/3rds toward the street. If you go, take a look at the front seat headrests for glenlloyd.
It's a brown sedan, forth "row" (second "aisle") from the south fence (that is, about two aisles to the south), about 2/3rds toward the street. If you go, take a look at the front seat headrests for glenlloyd.
Regards,
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
- asavage
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Yup, at least one 504. No engine, IIRC. It was pre-80 for sure, with that sloped trunk. Not even sure if it was diesel.
One MB, 280SE. That one I stopped and looked over. What a nightmare that engine looked like, the fuel distributor butted up against the left strut tower.
One MB, 280SE. That one I stopped and looked over. What a nightmare that engine looked like, the fuel distributor butted up against the left strut tower.
Regards,
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
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Last 504 sedan was 79, 505 sedan replaced 504 in 1980. If it was a 1979 by chance then the probability is high it was a diesel. If it had black bumpers then it's definitely after 1974.asavage wrote:Yup, at least one 504. No engine, IIRC. It was pre-80 for sure, with that sloped trunk. Not even sure if it was diesel.
One MB, 280SE. That one I stopped and looked over. What a nightmare that engine looked like, the fuel distributor butted up against the left strut tower.
Let me know when you're going back, I might have you acquire a few token parts that I need if you have time..which I know you really don't.
Glad I'm over the MB phase btw.
steve a
97 Jetta TDI, 86 VW Golf D
89 VW Fox diesel, 92 MB 300SD W140
gir - won't the sploding hurt?
zim - silence!
89 VW Fox diesel, 92 MB 300SD W140
gir - won't the sploding hurt?
zim - silence!
- asavage
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I don't have plans to go back to that JY soon -- between the two visits last week, I spent over $200 and ten hours on that JY wagon, and there's nothing left on it I want.
Regards,
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
Al S.
1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
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Finally replaced the halfshaft on the pass. side that had the (inner) torn boot. Not too hard a job; most of the work was lifting and securing the rear of the car and cleaning up the replacement parts, HW, and mating surfaces. And inspecting the brakes and other accessible bits and pieces. The escaped cv grease sure made a mess!
Found quite a bit of dried caked grease on the wheelside hub, far away from the stream left by the leaky cv boot. Does this indicate bad grease seals? Require immediate attention?
Found quite a bit of dried caked grease on the wheelside hub, far away from the stream left by the leaky cv boot. Does this indicate bad grease seals? Require immediate attention?
- kassim503
- Posts: 1027
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- Location: Stony Brook, NY
Busted grease seals also have grease strewn out in lines from the hub or whatever its connected to, if you see grease marks coming out of the hub, itll be worth your time to change the seal and re-pack with grease tommorow or today, cause when grease isnt in there, dirt and water is, and itll chew up a 20 something year old bearing fast.Carimbo wrote: Found quite a bit of dried caked grease on the wheelside hub, far away from the stream left by the leaky cv boot. Does this indicate bad grease seals? Require immediate attention?
Then again it could just be grease from, somewhere, mabye you hit roadkill and it splattered in a line ( I did recently and thought I blew a cv boot or hub seal).
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black
227K SOLD 6/7/2012
227K SOLD 6/7/2012
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Earlier in this thread you will see the passenger side inner halfshaft CV boot was torn since when I bought the car Aug. 2005. I replaced the halfshaft as insurance, no problems.
Yesterday I started hearing a new noise from the driver side rear, a knocking like knocking your knuckles on a window, when braking to a stop, the last 10-0 MPH. I guess similar to a FWD car w/ worn CV joints at acute steering angles but more subdued and muffled.
Looked under there this evening, saw a newly split inner CV boot on the driver's side so looks like I will R/R the driver side halfshaft soon.
Wanted to make the point that this knocking noise correlated w/ the newly split CV boot which correlates probably w/ a failing CV joint.
Yesterday I started hearing a new noise from the driver side rear, a knocking like knocking your knuckles on a window, when braking to a stop, the last 10-0 MPH. I guess similar to a FWD car w/ worn CV joints at acute steering angles but more subdued and muffled.
Looked under there this evening, saw a newly split inner CV boot on the driver's side so looks like I will R/R the driver side halfshaft soon.
Wanted to make the point that this knocking noise correlated w/ the newly split CV boot which correlates probably w/ a failing CV joint.
- kassim503
- Posts: 1027
- Joined: 18 years ago
- Location: Stony Brook, NY
my boots have been split for a while now, never bothered to fix it, never really had a problem with it and ive been using the maxima like a truck latley. Do you get new cv joint assy's when you worked on it, I find that the cv joints are NLA from my FLAPS.
'83 maxima sedan, l24e, a/t, black
227K SOLD 6/7/2012
227K SOLD 6/7/2012
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