after oil wrote:i dont think the coolant flow is backward. we checked pretty thoroughly when we installed it.
Concept: View each device filled with fluid but for about 10% air. Now position the device so that air bubble reaches a port. That port much be the EXIT point (the "high" point in the device). Never push down from the top to exit at the bottom as this promotes air locks.
Coolant LEAVES the thermostat elbow fitting. Plumb accordingly. And remember ... plumbed as a parallel circuit to the passenger compartment heater, anytime you command heat to the passenger compartment you will reduce coolant flow to your fuel heating devices at a time when they need it most.
Your new sigline ... it fits!
-Philip Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .
1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22
after oil wrote:phillip, where would you plumb into for a system like mine?
How did I post a generic answer before you posed your question?
Seriously, I'd have to know more particulars about the devices. And even then, theory must give way to experience. For instance, it might be found necessary to use the U-shaped bypass to run your heat devices instead of tapping the heater circuit.
-Philip Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .
1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22
althought very curious about this oil thing, the obvious thing, to me, is the removal of the second battery this truck should have in the location of this stuff........and it's bearing on the electrical system.....but cool stuff man, very cool.........why the suprise with the rotory pump?......with all the stuff that happens in a in line pump, a rotoryhas alot less going on inside....to my knowlage.......I have rebuild alot of caterpillar inline injection pumps off the A,B, and C model motors......and with getting the segments right on the rack and timing them and adjusting the levels....I have fond them to be harder to rebuild than these tractor pumps?.....am I missing somthing so plainly obvious that i cannot see it.........and I am asking humbly....not as a smart@$$
after oil wrote:
i dont think the coolant flow is backward. we checked pretty thoroughly when we installed it.
phillip replied
Concept: View each device filled with fluid but for about 10% air. Now position the device so that air bubble reaches a port. That port much be the EXIT point (the "high" point in the device). Never push down from the top to exit at the bottom as this promotes air locks.
Coolant LEAVES the thermostat elbow fitting. Plumb accordingly. And remember ... plumbed as a parallel circuit to the passenger compartment heater, anytime you command heat to the passenger compartment you will reduce coolant flow to your fuel heating devices at a time when they need it most.
i see how it appears i got it plumbed backwards, but the heater hoses appear not as they are. i checked and everything is plumbed in the right order(bottom to top).
now, what if i send coolant first to the WVO stuff, then to the heater... ie inline rather than in parallel?
the obvious thing, to me, is the removal of the second battery this truck should have
thats the way it came to me. all the mechanics i asked agreed that if its starting fine i dont need a second battery.
i have gone through a few starter clutches though...
"... the rare and elusive 1987 D21/SD25, I have come to believe these trucks exist ONLY in the minds of people who own them. " phillip R.I.P.
1987 nissan d21 SD25, canada/2 tank SVO
1993 mitsubishi delica chamonix 4X4 diesel van
I have always kept the two battery's in there in the case that the fuel filter waxes up and it's cold out and have to prime the system, the little pump on the top of the fuel filter housing is a pain if forced to put new fuel in the system on cold day.............
