Engine Vibration ... mounts sacked?

[philip]

Time to do this job. Took me about 90 minutes.

OH YEAH !!

There MUST have been a secret "Advisory" about engine vibration ... and didn't tell anyone. The engine is about 75% smoother now. And all the "grrrrrr-vibration" when engines are lower that 2000 rpm is gone.


See original mounts installed



The OEM mounts HAD sacked. BUY the new design!

Galen: NO need to file off any of the alignment pins. Hey ... that's Thailand parts byway of New York too!

[philip]

I don't know if it matter much for what you're doing since you already received the replacements. -SNIP-

TruckA: I checked out your mount photo on NAPA. Your particular engine mount is for the gasoline (1982 4x4) 2.2 L 2187 CC L4 SOHC;Left side only.

If you have a (1984 4x4) 2.4 L 2389 CC L4 SOHC;Left & Right, you'll still have an improvement design.

NEITHER is for diesel (if you have one).

Does that matter to you?

That goop is wasted for what you did. Sagging the rubber blocks causes "firming up" vibration which reaches through to the chassis frame. That little diesel is HEAVY and it vibrates from all that compression.

BTW, would you please add on your type of truck to your Signature (click on PROFILE at the top of any page, to get to where you can edit your Signature)?

[Carimbo]

There MUST have been a secret "Advisory" about engine vibration ... and didn't tell anyone. The engine is about 75% smoother now. And all the "grrrrrr-vibration" when engines are lower that 2000 rpm is gone.

Yeah, that was me, sorry I didn't broadcast the "Advisory" wider. Thought about replying to this post earlier but wasn't sure my experiences w/ the LD28 Motor Mounts would correlate to your SD22 application.

My perception is that the rubber can harden or soften over time, depending if it is getting a constant oil bath (in an oil leak path) or "dry sauna" (near hot exhaust). Hardened rubber isolater would transfer more vibration while softened rubber isolater would allow extra movement and possible metal to metal contact.

Apparently these mounts rubber isolaters cross sections are shaped like trapezoids that transform somewhat towards rectangle shape when installed and under the engines' weight. Looking at my before/after pics shows a subtle difference in the trapezoid shape that was evidently enough to make a big difference. New mounts = Less overall vibration (gives it an almost new car feel , doesn't it?), absolutely NO shake on shutdown (although now sometimes the whole car rocks at shutdown), and the fan is up off the bottom shroud.

Philip, congratulations on your record-breaking 90 mins. motor mount R/R!

[philip]

SNIP- Apparently these mounts rubber isolaters cross sections are shaped like trapezoids that transform somewhat towards rectangle shape when installed and under the engines' weight.

These OEM started out "rectangle" and becamed "trapezoid" under load. This change also lays the rubber to the bracket. So there goes a lot of engine vibration transmitting to the chassis frame.



The NEW mount starts out "trapezoid" and becomes "rectangle" under engine weight. There is no bracket shoulder for the rubber to sag against.

Philip, congratulations on your record-breaking 90 mins. motor mount R/R!

I get nervous about leaving things apart. I've always be a "flat rate" kind of guy.

EASY thing to do is all from under the hood (but for the hydraulic jack):

1) Disconnect the Positive cable.
2) Remove the air plenum. You -might- also want to disconnect the cables from the starter. (I didn't)
3) Remove the 12mm hex bolts and the 17mm hex nuts from the old mounts.
4) Jack up the engine pan, using with about 4" worth of wood.

About the time the wood meets the steering drag link, both engine mounts will fall out on the floor.







I left off the splash pan from the right mount because ... it's a little more difficulty R/R'ing the DPC motor.