New guy! My first Chrysler/Nissan and I need a little help

[Cwarta]

Hey guys, looking for some input here! I just picked up my first 4cyl diesel. I am no stranger to diesel I absolutley love them. Been working on and been around them for years. However I have zero experience with these and would like to give them a shot.

I have an sd22 and it has the cav pump not the Kiki pump. Runs excellent, although for about the first 2-3 minutes of cold startup it has a slight miss. It goes away as it warms up.

I've been reading and reading and reading on these little guys.
I see they do not hold a lot if boost but 10-12# should be ok. I purchased a Td04 9b turbo for it, and that's what I want to double check and make sure this turbo will be ok for me. I'm looking to make about 12#. Hoping to get the little motor up to around 100/175 and be reliable. I'm not sure on the turbo spevs but it's a stock 30000gt vr4 turbo, 1 of two the car has factory. The car is ab3.0 twin turbo stock. So one turbo would be about a normal 1.5l turbo lol. What do you think?

[waynosworld]

The turbo likely will work just fine, I have found that most that try to turbocharge these SD engines get to big of a turbo and it never builds anything more than a couple pounds of boost at best.
I also see that almost all have the inline injection pump which is basically impossible to turbocharge successfully, I have an SD25 that Larry on here put together, he did a lot to try and get this to work, but in the end it doesn't work properly either, it's great around town in stop and go traffic, but when I get on the hiway, it just gets to hot if I try to go over 55mph, and when I get to any hill, it is impossible to maintain the speed I am going, as the EGTs go over 1400 degrees unless I let off the pedal until I get to the top of the grade which I may only be going 40mph or less by the time I get to the top of the hill.
I believe that my turbocharger was made for a 1600cc gas engine, and my engine is a SD25, so your SD22 should be fine with that turbo.
Keep in mind that your SD22 is likely a 3 main bearing engine, you don't want to give it a lot of boost, and as far as I know, the SD22 pistons were never made for boost, while the SD25 pistons were.

[Cwarta]

The turbo likely will work just fine, I have found that most that try to turbocharge these SD engines get to big of a turbo and it never builds anything more than a couple pounds of boost at best.
I also see that almost all have the inline injection pump which is basically impossible to turbocharge successfully, I have an SD25 that Larry on here put together, he did a lot to try and get this to work, but in the end it doesn't work properly either, it's great around town in stop and go traffic, but when I get on the hiway, it just gets to hot if I try to go over 55mph, and when I get to any hill, it is impossible to maintain the speed I am going, as the EGTs go over 1400 degrees unless I let off the pedal until I get to the top of the grade which I may only be going 40mph or less by the time I get to the top of the hill.
I believe that my turbocharger was made for a 1600cc gas engine, and my engine is a SD25, so your SD22 should be fine with that turbo.
Keep in mind that your SD22 is likely a 3 main bearing engine, you don't want to give it a lot of boost, and as far as I know, the SD22 pistons were never made for boost, while the SD25 pistons were.

Thanks for the reply! When you say it gets hot, is that because you have to keep it floored constantly? What is causing those extreme temps? How much boost are you running?

[waynosworld]

Thanks for the reply! When you say it gets hot, is that because you have to keep it floored constantly? What is causing those extreme temps? How much boost are you running?

I am running 5psi right now, I could likely run 10psi if I wanted to, but as it was pointed out to me, the engine is old.
Why is it getting so hot, well I can't really say I know why it is getting so hot for sure, but I suspect it is because it is getting a lot of fuel as the inline KIKI pump was modified to run richer, as I said, it runs great around town in stop and go traffic where the RPMs are not steady, so it has time to cool off, but once I get on the hiway, well that is when I start having issues, and I am far from floored on the hiway, I am only using the top 1 inch of the pedal, but when I give it more pedal, not much really happens except the EGTs start to get real high real fast, it's not that hard to get to 1400 degrees just getting up to freeway speed, I also cannot go much faster than 55mph.
My guess is that the injection pump rack is floored most the time, and speed is controlled by how much air it is getting, once I try to go a steady speed, the engine/truck starts surging, my guess is that the injection pump rack is trying to find a sweet spot but it keeps moving back and forth never really finding a fixed position, but the turbo is interfering with it, it is an inline pump after all.
This turbo engine is setup to run under 2000rpms, anything above that and it starts getting hot, I am going to take the inline injection pump off and put a VE type injection pump on it, and see if that fixes the EGT issue, I am just not motivated right now.

[plenzen]

Changing that pump over would be a big job too.

[waynosworld]

Changing that pump over would be a big job too.

It's not that big of a job for me, I have done it a couple times, I actually have the new pump mounted now, I did make a mistake though, I didn't realize that inline injection pumps have 4 positions they like to be in, when I tore the IP out, I just did it where the crank was, I made some marks for reference and tore it apart, well when it came time to put the gear on the front of the IP, I could not get the key way on the IP shaft to stay where I needed it to be to install the gear, I fought it for a while and finally gave up and decided I had to do something different, I looked at it for a while, I noticed that the IP shaft that the gear goes on had a hole in the end of it, so what I did was tap an easy out into that hole in the end of the shaft with the IP mounted, then I slid the gear over it into the position I needed it to be, then I took a tool I have for tapping holes and put it on the end of the easy out, then I pushed on the gear while I turned the easy out the correct direction, it took a couple tries, but the second time the gear dropped into position, you have no idea how happy I was that I didn't have to pull the front of the engine off to align everything.
I really am not sure if this IP is going to work, it's not an automotive application IP, but I bought it for cheap(NOS), and had it worked on to adapt it to an automotive application, we shall see if it will work, the biggest issue will be the throttle cable I hope.

[plenzen]

I ran into the same issue with my VE pump the 3 or times I've had it off. I just roll the engine a tooth or 2 out of time till the gear sits on the key. I then roll to the timing marks to check they are lined. If not I just back it up and move it one more tooth and try again.
Do you change the front plate on the engine to allow for 3 studs of the VE pump as opposed to 4 for the inline?

[waynosworld]

I ran into the same issue with my VE pump the 3 or times I've had it off. I just roll the engine a tooth or 2 out of time till the gear sits on the key. I then roll to the timing marks to check they are lined. If not I just back it up and move it one more tooth and try again.
Do you change the front plate on the engine to allow for 3 studs of the VE pump as opposed to 4 for the inline?

When I teransfered that VE type pump to my freshly rebuilt SD22, I did have to change the front plate, I actually had to transfer everything, all the gears, plates and even the front cover.
The SD25 I have has different gears than the SD22, much finer teeth on the gears.

I did get that pump on the engine, but it is not running correctly, so I am going to turn it to TDC and check the pump gear to see if it is set up correctly, if not I will fix it, if it is correct, then this pump is a fail for this engine, as it is not running right, it has no power, I seriously doubt it has the power to move the truck in third gear.

[plenzen]

The timing gears on my 25 have 3 "Y"s that have to line up. 1 "Y" on the pump gear and 2 on the timing gear. If the crank gear that was on the 22 is indexed the same as the 25 with the key way ( which I suspect it is) then you would time it the same ......... YES?
1 "y" on the pump between the 2Y's .?
The timing mark on the front pulley is lined up at TDC as well.

I messed with my "ignition" timing a bit with advance and retard. I found that I did not have to move that pump very much towards the engine to retard it A LOT, or hear and feel the results of retard. It made for a harder start but a smoother quieter idle.
But,,,,,,,,,,,, no power. Just like you are describing.
A small movement of the pump away from the engine made for a nosier idle but lots more power. It's a very fine line for the difference.
There is a scribed line on the plate and notch/line in the pump. On mine, I have it timed so the inner most part of the notch on the pump is lined up with the outer most part of the scribed line on the plate.
It's about as good as it's going to get. Advance it any more and it "nails" too much and I fear that it will break the top piston ring.
The smoke screw is super sensitive on it as well. Tiniest movement inwards will make it smoke like crazy.

( probably telling you stuff you already know here but thought I would post it anyway ) .

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

[waynosworld]

The timing gears on my 25 have 3 "Y"s that have to line up. 1 "Y" on the pump gear and 2 on the timing gear. If the crank gear that was on the 22 is indexed the same as the 25 with the key way ( which I suspect it is) then you would time it the same ......... YES?
1 "y" on the pump between the 2Y's .?
The timing mark on the front pulley is lined up at TDC as well.

I messed with my "ignition" timing a bit with advance and retard. I found that I did not have to move that pump very much towards the engine to retard it A LOT, or hear and feel the results of retard. It made for a harder start but a smoother quieter idle.
But,,,,,,,,,,,, no power. Just like you are describing.
A small movement of the pump away from the engine made for a nosier idle but lots more power. It's a very fine line for the difference.
There is a scribed line on the plate and notch/line in the pump. On mine, I have it timed so the inner most part of the notch on the pump is lined up with the outer most part of the scribed line on the plate.
It's about as good as it's going to get. Advance it any more and it "nails" too much and I fear that it will break the top piston ring.
The smoke screw is super sensitive on it as well. Tiniest movement inwards will make it smoke like crazy.

( probably telling you stuff you already know here but thought I would post it anyway ) .

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

I put that IP on about 3 times, I could not get it to run properly, it was very noisy on the top like the valves were out of adjustment, and it was very slow to rev, it sounded very bad and had no power, I don't think it could have moved the truck once in 3rd gear, I got it into second and just decided to put it back in the driveway, I guess I don't understand that type of injection pump, I cannot see how it would move a boat, water pump, or anything else requiring power, as it had none, I thing my lawnmower has more power, and that is with the turbo connected, when I put it back together the way is was, it was noisy for a few seconds after I started it, and then it got quiet like I am used to.
When I had it running with the other new IP, I could not get it to stop smoking and smelling like unburnt fuel, I lost one IP shaft key into the oil pan when it fell out trying to install the front gear, the last one I used a punch on the key so that I had to tap it in to the IP shaft, it didn't go anywhere after that.
This inline put I tried was made for a boat, water pump, generator, or something that uses a steady RPM, and I tried using it in an automotive application, it didn't work, as I know at least one of the 3 times I installed it, that it was timed correctly, BTW I moved the IP threw it's full range of timing without any better results.
This pump has no smoke screw, it has a little screw inside the lower rear cover that one turns to make it leaner or richer.
I have to say this again, it was very noisy, maybe what you were calling "nails", I didn't like that noise at all.