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How can I to Start up a SD22?

Posted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 1:56 am
by Jamijou
Hello Guys, I have been searching everywhere for information about these Trucks with SD22.

I have my father's old 82 Datsun, I want to get working again but I can't get it too start. It was working back in 2005 but white smoke started to come out of it. My father wanted to fix it but he passed away in 2006. So Now I want to get the truck running back.

He told me that he thought it was the cylinderhead but I don't know.
From what I can see the engine looks alright, but it has a Homemade Wire modification that runs from the positive battery to the interior and another one from the top of the starter, the middle clip. What can that modification would be for? it used to turn on with the key turn.

So if anyone would like to give me some ideas on how to trouble shoot it so it can turn on I would highly appreciate it.

Posted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 12:29 pm
by dn29626
I think your truck has a more serious problem (because of the "white smoke" comment) but i will focus on your wire modification question.

This sounds like the switch at the base of the (key) ignition has gone bad (part of it may still work-it has 5 flat connector tabs).
To start the engine, the key still must be in the "on" position and the added wire(s) is to allow the starter to be powered and start the engine.

If i can find a picture, i will post and show you the part i think is bad.

Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 1:07 am
by Jamijou
So those that White Smoke mean I'm going to have to rebuild the engine? Any suggestions where can I find part for the SD22

Posted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 2:59 am
by dn29626
I agree with your father, i suspect the head (and associated gaskets/seals) is causing the white smoke. A week-end repair.

The ignition part is available on ebay.
Example ... 2958wt_866

Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:26 am
by charmalu
White smoke can just be unburned vaporized fuel.

Are the Glow plugs working? use a DVM (Digital Volt meter) and check to see if they are getting voltage from the GP Relay.

Another way is to remove the plugs, hold it with a pairs of Pliers, apply 12V and ground the body/Pliers. the tip should get red hot.
Caution, do not touch the hot plug.

I use Anti-Seiz to the threads when reinstalling them.

Adjust the valves. they have probably been neglected. this should be done every 15k miles or once a year. adjust them with a hot engine.
Intake0.35mm (0.014in)
Exhaust 0.35mm (0.014in)
as per my FSM.

If this has been sitting for the past 8 yrs, I would change the filters, and maybe use a container of fuel under the hood to bypass the fuel tank and it`s old fuel as a possible problem.

use the primer Pump to purge out any air in the fuel lines. If it is the old style pump that has to be unscrewed first to use, and it is leaking any fuel while pumping. they are known to suck air. replace it with the newer style Bosch black one that you just pump and no unscrewing.
There is 2 10mm bolts on the side of the IP, loosen these, fuel will come out as you pump. when the fuel runs clear, (no bubbles) then tighten the bolts.

make sure the battery is well charged up and the Starter is turning the engine over fast enough.

You need Air, Compression, Fuel, and heat form the compression to ignite the fuel.

I wouldn`t start removing the head and condemning the gasket before doing some basic things first.

The wiring sound like the PO bypassed the starting system to kick in the Solinoid.
I bypassed mine years ago with a Toggle switch and a Starter Button, works every time.