NissanDiesel Forums

pbknowles wrote:Judging from the way the chrome is missing at all the bends, and having bent a few shift levers myself, I would say that they heated up and bent the bejeesus out of a stock Nissan lever......

I will take a look at it. If they did the stock lever must be extreemly long. Just how long is the stock lever?

Zoltan wrote:

ecomike wrote: So does anyone know the part number and or any sources for the rubber boot and control lever/shifter that I need, or spares they want to get ride of?

The small rubber boot part# is 32862-E9300 and it costs 5.20 or so. The large one #74963-01w01 is expensive ($36.34) and usually available a lot cheaper from ebay (<$10). A lot of time it is listed under Datsun 240 and looks like this

Thanks!

I take it the one I need to seal off the striker guide inlet where the lever attaches is the small one #32862-E9300?? Are there any easy to use online Nissan parts dealer/web sites or other sites yet that would have it where I could just order one online? The only listed Nissan dealer parts place in the phone book in Houston does not like to even answer their phone.

I think I am going to have to custom make me a larger one after I decide whether to keep or replace the existing shift lever.

Thanks again for the help!

asavage wrote:

ecomike wrote:

Ok, I have fought that battle and run out of steam after 2 hours of attempts, so where and how do I post a decent picture and get it to display here directly. I tried all the sugested code samples....etc.

Code: Select all

[url=http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/4922/shifter02bt2.jpg]
[img]http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/5071/shifter02qy2.th.jpg[/img][/url] [url=http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2694/bootremainsrug02cu2.jpg]
[img]http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2694/bootremainsrug02cu2.th.jpg[/img][/url]

(without the line breaks, which I inserted to keep the lines short enough to not force horizontal scrolling of the entire thread.)

I think I see what I was doing wrong. I never would have figured that out in a million years the way the imageshack and FAQ code samples here and there are shown. Thanks! Now if I can just find this page sample next time I want to post a picture using there service!

ecomike wrote:I take it the one I need to seal off the striker guide inlet where the lever attaches is the small one #32862-E9300?? Are there any easy to use online Nissan parts dealer/web sites or other sites yet that would have it where I could just order one online?

If you have the part number:
http://www.nismoparts.com/cart/?pn=search

The small rubber boot part# is 32862-E9300

The large one #74963-01w01

Well Al we will see what happens, I used BuyNissanParts.com before I got your reply. I ordered the small boot, $3.06, and went ahead and ordered one of those OEM return hoses for the oil line (#1467G7004) on the vacuum pump, only $15.62.

The bushings were # 32855Q0100 for $2.30 each after their discount. They gave me a discount! Ground UPS was $10.25.

Nothing was in stock, so now I get wait...............

I checked the shift lever and sure enough it was heated and bent in both spots so it may be the OEM Nissan lever after all.

Good eyes pbknowles, They did bend the bejeesus out of it! If they hadn't the top of the lever in my jeep would have been about neck high and bit hard to reach! I measured the three lengths and it comes up to about 15" long overall.

Buy the way I made several trips yesterday and only had a little bit of trouble for about 2 seconds after shifting out of reverse and back to first at start up on the first trip. I put it back in reverse and back in neutral a second time with no problem, and it worked flawlessly after that. I ran all five gears and reverse several times on multiple trips and so far it looks like I am going to be OK and not have to pull that friggin thing. I just need to get the boot and bushings installed and rig up a nice outer boot setup to seal the floor now.

Well it did it again today. Ran the freeway in fifth gear, got off the freeway and it ran OK in 1-4th gear and on the last turn into the parking lot it frooze up again in neutral. Seemed like it had a hard time rotating the striker guide as well. Had to turn it off and fight with it for about 4 minutes then all of sudden it went back to working prefectly. No problems the rest of the day, but can't trust it and it's so unreadable making it hard to diagnose.

Yeah, that's the way mine was too.

Uh, isn't high and bent the way shifters are supposed to be?

asavage wrote:Yeah, that's the way mine was too.

Was???? Have you fixed it, if so how?

Does any one where I can get or what shifter, "control lever", I can use that will fit this beast but that is only about 10 to 12" long and is straight?

I am thinking part of my problem is angle on the shift lever and maybe a short straight one would be less problematic when it comes to rotating the striker guide. I am thinking the bent shift lever is putting added stress on the stiker guide when rotating it to get from reverse/5th fork engagement to the 1/2 and 3/4 engagement.

Anybody think adding some kind of snake oil to the stiker guide will help any?

ecomike wrote:Was???? Have you fixed it, if so how?

"Was", as in the last time I personally drove it, two years ago. Since then, it has belonged to someone else, and has just recently been back in my parking lot and parted out. The trans is (likely) going to be re-used in the 1986 gasser -> diesel conversion.

I am thinking part of my problem is angle on the shift lever and maybe a short straight one would be less problematic when it comes to rotating the striker guide. I am thinking the bent shift lever is putting added stress on the stiker guide when rotating it to get from reverse/5th fork engagement to the 1/2 and 3/4 engagement.

I can't quite see how a different shifter or angle of force on the ball cup (lower "Control Lever Bushing) is going to affect the problem. Looking at the exploded view of the mechanism (click on pic for a much larger version):


My guess, from the illustration, is that either the striking lever (green) is worn, and/or the interlock balls (yellow) are not able to travel freely, or the return spring plunger (purple) is sticking. Those are my guesses at this point.

This post is probably of interest to anyone reading this thread.
Plus, I want to be able to find it later if I need it.

Well I tried some snake oil today. OK, not snake oil, just a dab of motor oil on the striker guide and striker rod assy. Got close enough to it, to notice I am missing the rear expansion plug (FSM says to apply sealant to the plug during re-aasembly. Since I did not have any unknown spare parts left over after the rebuild, it must have been missing the expansion plug when I bought it.

So now I am on the hunt for the, or a proper sized expansion plug to plug it up! With out that plug and a good rubber boot (on order already), dust and dirt can get in there, oil drains out on the ground and it starts to gum up the works. I just hope I found it and got to it in time to avoid pulling the transmision and spliting the case again just to clean it up. I just loved doing that! Not LOL.

By the way I am in the market for an OEM control lever (shifter) for this tranny. This one will get cut to shorten it, and not bent all to hell and back (bejeesus!) like mine is.

I've got a core trans. Might be able to remove the plug. No spare shift lever.

Well I made my first junk yard dog trip the junk yard in my life time today, YAHOO! Guess it had to happen sooner or later. It was like sending a hungry kid to the candy store for a jug of milk. I found a bunch of really old, really cool looking Jallopies (sp?) there.

First 5 places I stopped at were no help. Last one, a Pick N Pull, just 10 blocks from my shop, had what looked like what I needed. I found and pullled a short, nearly straight shift lever with the large oval interface like the one Al posted a picture of previously. It is about an inch wide at about an inch above the oval interface (pin location) like one of the ones in the pictures here, but has a slight maybe 5 to 10% bend in the narrow part of the lever just before it jumps up to the one inch width. I will post or link pictures later.

I reused the old spring, used the 2 new oval bushings, and installed the new small rubber boot. Only problem it left me with is the shifter runs into the manual parking brake lever when I shift into 4th and reverse. There is just enough room to push the brake lever sideways (right for 4th gear and left for reverse gear) and actually shift into reverse and 4th gear, but I will eventually need to deal with it by either bending this lever just a bit more, or by relocating the parking brake lever assy. back about 0.5 to 1.0"s. I suspect picking the brake assy up and moving it back just a little will be far easier than trying to shorten the parking brake lever arm since it has a button in the end of it right where the shifter lever runs into it.


I pulled the shift lever out of what was labeled as a 1984 Nissan/Datsun car (sedan). Could not find any other data on it, but it appears to be a 5 speed manual tranny on a gas engine still there. So I am seriously thinking of grabbing it for the $89.00 to use as a rainy day, disaster day
spare.

I have a mechanic friend who will help me pull it (he makes his living pulling parts like these in junk yards and uses them to fix and sell busted cars and it is a pick n pull do it yourself place. ) for about $70 (for his time, maybe less if it goes quick), so after taxes I would have just under $200 tied up in it.

Almost forgot, I test drove it today, made about 5 short stop and go trips, about 5 miles total,used everything but 5th, never got over 40 mph, but so far it works and fells great! Will try a long freeway trip soon, but three fourths of the times I had problems it was within the first few minutes of driving that it stuck itself in neutral, so I have high hopes at this point that maybe it is fixed.

asavage wrote:I've got a core trans. Might be able to remove the plug. No spare shift lever.

Thought I had posted this already, last weekend I acquired and installed a standard size freeze plug, installed it, added some oil to the now sealed area, worked the cylinder-shifter mechanism around about a hundred times and it worked like a champ.

Arg, now what did I do with that freeze plug diameter note???? Oh well it was somewhere around 1.25" diameter.

Thnaks for the help and the offers and for talking me into visiting my friendly neighbor recycling center, LOL.