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Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 6:46 am
I believe the IP timing belt is ??????? "challenging" IIRC
Not sure about idler brgs etc either. ( availability)
As previously stated Al (asavage) is a good "go to" guy for info if you cant find what your looking for through "search" on here.
Posted: Fri Jan 17, 2014 8:08 am
Lordco Said they have one, and rock auto got one or three. How ever the tensors for the IP I can't find. so I am hoping the one on the timing side will work.
Posted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 8:21 pm
plenzen wrote:As for the copper washers. "Annealing" them is a good course to follow.
Heating them to cherry red with a propane torch ( propane will not melt copper ) and then letting them air cool or plunging them into cold water is actually the best way to perform this task.
Copper annealing is the opposite from carbon steel: cool as quickly as you can to anneal copper. Air cooling will not achieve enough malleability to do the job for injector seals.
Posted: Sat Feb 01, 2014 6:31 pm
Air cooling is actually enough to soften copper; water does make it even softer. It is true that a regular propane torch won't melt copper, BUT it can cause oxidation crusts to form which are not desirable. Annealing should be done in subdued light and the copper need only be brought to dull dark red before plunging into water.
One important thing to remember is to take a little off the outside circumference of the washer with a fine file because the washer will spread out some each time it is annealed and re-used. This is especially important if the washer was already a little tight to get out of the injector hole. Failure to trim *will* cause such a washer to be swaged into the bottom of the injector hole making future removal extremely difficult. Use a file card to keep the file from clogging.
New washers, and especially small ones, should be annealed before use as they are manufactured by a punching process which does a dandy job of instantly hardening them and manufacturers are too cheap to anneal them after making them.