hello, this is the first time I've posted on here so i hope this question fits the groups purpose.
I have a 1981 720 with a sd22 engine. I took out the fuel injectors to have them rebuilt. One of the copper washers that mates the injector to the head was badly stuck and i couldn't pry it out. So i had the bright idea of using a screw driver as a chisel but not being used to chiseling through copper i went through the washer and put a divot in the seat. AAAHHHH! what a stupid mistake. But my question is, does anyone have any suggestions on an "easy" fix for this situation or am i going to have to pull the head and have it machined down or do i have to get a new head? please help. the divot is small but big enough for gas to get through with the injector tightened to the specified torque. thanks!
justin
Help with fuel injector head
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Re: help with fuel injector head
Well, not being able to see the 'divot' makes this a lil hard, but... here goes... First off, this is only a suggested 'easy fast fix'. It's not guaranteed, but I have made this work a couple of times when customers have done the same taking the copper washers out of their engine cylinder heads...sepoletna wrote:hello, this is the first time I've posted on here so i hope this question fits the groups purpose.
But my question is, does anyone have any suggestions on an "easy" fix for this situation .... the divot is small but big enough for gas to get through with the injector tightened to the specified torque. thanks!
justin
Copper is a metal which hardens when worked, i.e. hammered and/or bent. Most copper washers are punched to size out of a solid sheet and then packed and shipped. They are already semi hardened by the punching process and this is where your salvation MAY lay.
Slip the new washers onto some iron wire and, in a dark place so you can see the following clearly, heat them to dull luminescent red with a propane torch. When they are dull red, plunge them into cold water. The heating and chilling will anneal them and they will be VERY soft. In fact, you could easily bend them with your fingers once or twice before they harden again from the bending. Now, get or make a round nosed punch (Roundness to be about the same as the edge of a silver dollar) and using a very light hammer, flatten/peen the burred edges of your divot until you have those raised edges worked back down flat. You can tell when the edges are down flat again when they don't catch the edge of a fine screwdriver. Now install your freshly annealed washer and injector. Make sure you tighten the injector hold downs VERY evenly, slowly building up the torque in small steps. Start the engine and check for leakage.
Good luck and let us know if this works...
N_R
Last edited by Nissan_Ranger 16 years ago, edited 1 time in total.
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