Matt's (goglio704) 82 sedan

[rlaggren]

I've got some seepage there also. Wouldn't a hard fitting that extended down to where you could reach it "easily" be better than a single piece w/permanent fittings at each end? 'Cuz then you could remove/replace the hose w/out getting under the manifold. Just a thought.

Also, if the fitting is steel and cracked where the hose pipe comes out, it might weld up OK.

Rufus

[goglio704]

I've got some seepage there also. Wouldn't a hard fitting that extended down to where you could reach it "easily" be better than a single piece w/permanent fittings at each end? 'Cuz then you could remove/replace the hose w/out getting under the manifold. Just a thought.

Also, if the fitting is steel and cracked where the hose pipe comes out, it might weld up OK.

Rufus

What we have is pretty "hard" already. It has a banjo bolt securing it to the block and a bracket which bolts it to the block at the lower end. In looking at mine, I don't see any cracks. I replaced the coppers washers and expect the leak to stop.

The little hose at the lower end will have to be replaced eventually and my thought was to go back all in one piece. Fewer connections, fewer leak points is my theory. I am finding it counter intuitive that the steel tube is giving me trouble while the rubber hose keeps defying the odds. I am wondering if vibration of the tube could be causing the upper end to loosen and leak. Dunno.

FWIW, it is possible to sneak a socket on the 17mm head of the banjo bolt and tighten it up a bit. With a wobble extension this can be done with the manifolds still in place. It might be an option for those sane enough not to wade into a sea of "while I'm at it."

[asavage]

Matt, the point at which the hard line meets the block (vacuum pump oil feed) is beginning to look like a common leak point, and I'd like some pics to link to the FAQ on this. Could you take some pics and write good notes on it? Thanks.

[goglio704]

I started a project(s) on this car last weekend. I decided to pull the intake manifold in order to swap it for my clean spare. While I have the manifolds off, I also want to fix an oil leak. The leak seems to be coming from the point where the vac pump oil line meets the block. I'm going to replace the washers on the banjo fitting and hope that fixes it. I guess the tube could be cracked. Hope not. If the tube is cracked, I may look at getting a hose made up that would be one piece from the block to the pump instead of the tube then hose configuration it was built with.

Somewhere during all this I had a "While I'm at it..." type thought. A very dangerous type of thought to be sure. I decided to install a block heater while access was so good. Today, I finally got my hands on a heater after getting the run around from Napa's online store.

So, in short, I have can of worms open and hope to put the lid back on this weekend. Of course, while I'm at it, I should pull the radiator and get it cleaned out...

More than six months later, but I got this car back on the road today. Mom got sick before I finished the project, and I haven't had a lot of time to do anything since. The time situation has been improving a little lately, and a letter from the county about my "inoperable vehicles" lit a fire under me.

I still have one serious issue to address before I put this car back in daily driver status. On a cold start, if the engine sputters, the starter will lose it's grip and freewheel. Am I right to think this is a starter drive issue? Something going wrong with the clutch inside the drive I guess?

[kassim503]

When my 6.2 diesel started doing that it was a weak spring on the bendix (clutch mechanism), if you opt to not replace it and live with the thump freewheel thump freewheel thing, let go of the key immediatley, itll fry the solenoid's contact pads from the backpressure of the bendix kicking out. Ask me how I know