Retired Pauly's 1987 D21-J SD25 KC

This is where we can post about our rigs, specs, ongoing plans, etc., links to pics.

Moderators: goglio704, Nissan_Ranger

Post Reply
plenzen
Posts: 890
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

Retired Pauly's 1987 D21-J SD25 KC

#1

Post by plenzen »

Got this little beauty about 2 years ago from my dad who bought it new in Vancouver B.C. Canada in December of 1986. The truck was built in August of 86 according to the plate on the post. He took it from the dealership to the local Zeibart Undercoating place immediately and it paid off. The mark at the left rear is where some baloney head in a parking lot backed into it and then of course left. I put some Rust Stop primer on it till the money tree blossoms again and I can get it fixed. The primer on the passenger door is to stop rust where some paint was chipped off of there. I have to remember that this ol boy is 20 years old and has a couple of bumps and scrapes on it.
I have installed an "intake air" heater under the throttle chamber and used a separate relay to fire that along with the glow plugs and it starts beautifully in the winter. I also have that air heater relay hooked to work with both the pre glow and after glow relays and it smoothes out the idle on those real cold mornings quite nicely, and then just shuts off by itself. I had the injectors rebuilt and had the break point upped to 2200 lbs on them and it seemed to help with the cold start as well. The old guy at the local Nissan dealership said that is what they used to do to them there to help them out. The 25's did not like the cold at all.
It has 230,000 Kms (143,000 mi) on it now. Dad kept a log in the glove box on it from everything that he did to it. It's just had the clutch done and changed the rear seal while we were there. New release brg. of course and the fork was still like brand new.
I do in fact have a FSM for a 1987 D21 and that has been very helpful in tracing a fuel heater problem that it had, and has now been resolved. I was also lucky to have received a spare of every hose on this engine, including the ones for the CSD on the fuel pump. I have read a few comments by people at different forums on this site that they just putter along. Well the 25 is not making any more power than the 22 did, at least this one is not and that is fine. I just learn to relax and wave politely when the impatient ones scream by you blowing the horn and giving you the single digit salute. I got all the friends that I can handle now anyway.


Image Image Image Image Image Image
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5431
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Contact:

#2

Post by asavage »

Great looking rig, Pauly.

I'm glad you took a pic of the emissions compliance underhood sticker too.

Can you expand on the intake heater? Who makes it, any links about it, and maybe a picture? I like that it shuts itself off.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
plenzen
Posts: 890
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#3

Post by plenzen »

I built the heater myself actually. I was able to source it from where my dad still works (building generator sets at 84 yrs.) It's an air heater that is used on Yanmar industrial and marine engines. ( Yanmar part # 129100-77500) I bought three of them. I have taken a picture of this item and can send it to you if you like. It was, needless to say, a perfect fit for the SD25. If you look at the picture that I have posted with the hood up and enlarge it you can see this heater right under the air cleaner. It has a red connector on one side of it and that is the power cable. It is below the throttle chamber and about three quarters of an inch thick. It does, I think, restrict the air flow slightly but I did not notice any difference in performance on my truck either with or without it. I tested it both ways after I installed it. I am not that certain if the throttle chamber bolt spacing is the same on the SD22 or not, but this could certainly be made to adapt. This bolted right on in my case, and all I needed to do was make another gasket and get some bolts three quarters of an inch longer than the ones that were there, and then get some small three quarter inch spacers to lift the breather on the valve cover. I wired the air heater to come on with the quick glow system and to remain on, at full power, during the after glow sequence. I also hooked a bypass button to the inside of the truck. When the weather is cold (-10 C or colder) I press the button for 20 seconds and then release and turn the key to the preheat position. The 20 seconds gets the elements just to start glowing red. Then when the quick glow cycles it gets nice and red. The system then goes to after glow, ( I hooked a small light to the glow plugs). Once the light goes to half brightness I know it has cycled to after glow. I then hit the key and away she goes!! Quick too!! I have a different light hooked to the air heater and it stays on ( at full power) until the entire glow sequence shuts off. I do not know if the SD22 had the after glow/ quick glow sequence or not. I have the air heater run by a continuous duty relay not unlike one of the old Ford solenoid switches. I know that the Nissan timer ( in my case located under the driver’s seat) is fairly fragile so I did not want to over load it. The continuous duty relay takes about 8 - 10 amps to fire I think. I got a lighter duty relay that only takes 1-2 amps to fire, and have the light duty one firing the bigger one. ( I know I should get a job with Ford, a relay firing a relay, sheesh!!). I did not want to take the chance of cooking the timer with too much load so opted to do it this way. I noted that all the wires that go to the existing Nissan relays are pretty small. I have three in total, one for quick glow, one for after glow and one for the fuel heater. I don’t know if the lighter duty relay that I put in would be have been enough to carry the air heater, but there is a real loud "THUNK" now when every thing shuts off. Makes the wipers jump off the glass!!! I also went to a different glow plug too and can give you more on them if you want.

Paul
Last edited by plenzen 16 years ago, edited 3 times in total.
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5431
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Contact:

#4

Post by asavage »

But, of course we want more info about your replacement GPs.

The afterglow system (at reduced voltage) is an SD25-only thing. I've seen it in the FSM, but not in Real Life. It is the same system as I have on my Maxima diesels with the LD28 though.
Regards,
Al S.

1982 Maxima diesel wagon, 2nd & 4th owner, 165k miles, rusty & burgundy/grey. Purchased 1996, SOLD 16Feb10
1983 Maxima diesel wagon, 199k miles, rusty, light yellow/light brown. SOLD 14Jul07
1981 720 SD22 (scrapped 04Sep07)
1983 Sentra CD17, 255k, bought 06Jul08, gave it away 22Jun10.
plenzen
Posts: 890
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#5

Post by plenzen »

you want the pictures on the heater?
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5431
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Contact:

#6

Post by asavage »

plenzen wrote:I built the heater myself actually. . . . It has a red connector on one side of it and that is the power cable. It is below the throttle chamber and about three quarters of an inch thick. It does, I think, restrict the air flow slightly . . .
So it is a plate/grid heater, rather than a thread-in style like this?
plenzen
Posts: 890
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#7

Post by plenzen »

It is different, with a 13 or 14 segmented flat element in it. The element surfaces are about .030 thick and about .250 wide with the air flowing through the .030 side. Lots of hot surface!

Image Image

The GP's are a Delphi HDS283. They are rated at 10.5 V which all the SD 25 plugs are rated at. They get hot F A S T !! The delphi has a point on it much like the sharpened end of a crayon. They are red in less than 5 sec and only the tips of them get red. The NGK's and the ND's are both rated at 10.5 V and get hot, but the Delphis seem to concentrate it more to the very tip. They were cheaper than the NGK's as well, but the shipping got me. They had to come from England even though they are made in the USA. Go figure

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
User avatar
philip
Deceased
Posts: 1494
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Southern California, USA

#8

Post by philip »

plenzen wrote:you want the pictures on the heater?
YES. If you don't mind, please remove the air filter house and then take photos closer on left, center, right from about 1-2 feet above the fenders. Do include the injection pump angle.

Thanks! :)
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"
plenzen
Posts: 890
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#9

Post by plenzen »

i have photos of the unit here now do you want those?
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
User avatar
philip
Deceased
Posts: 1494
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Southern California, USA

#10

Post by philip »

plenzen wrote:i have photos of the unit here now do you want those?
Yes.
-Philip
Passed 08May2008
My friend, you are missed . . .

1982 Datsun 720KC SD-22

"Im slow and I'm ahead of you"
plenzen
Posts: 890
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#11

Post by plenzen »

they are on their way same place as the manual photos went. Is that OK?

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
pbknowles
Posts: 95
Joined: 17 years ago
Location: Illinois, USA

#12

Post by pbknowles »

Wahoo! This little heater is exactly what I have been looking for. I was trying to adapt one off an old Oliver tractor, but this is sweet! Thanks for sharing this!
PK
SD22 powered '85 Chevy S-10
User avatar
asavage
Site Admin
Posts: 5431
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Oak Harbor, Wash.
Contact:

#13

Post by asavage »

How do we buy one of these intake heaters?
plenzen
Posts: 890
Joined: 16 years ago
Location: Cochrane Alberta Canada

#14

Post by plenzen »

You can get them from your local Yanmar Diesel Industrial Dealer. In the case of us Canucks it will most likely be Land Sea Power Ltd. 7400 Wilson Ave. Delta B.C. V4G - 1E5 Tel (604) 946-5996 Fax (604) 940-9566 e-mail: info@landseapower.com web site http://www.landseapower.com. Yanmar Part # 129100-77501 Air Heater. Don’t know what the retail is on them but I have called them to get a price and I will post it here. For the American fellows I am not sure where the local Yanmar dealer would be but these guys at Land Sea Power ship all over the world now so I am sure that they will send one to you.

Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
redmondjp
Posts: 204
Joined: 18 years ago
Location: Redmond, WA

#15

Post by redmondjp »

I would try an ag equipment parts dealer--I know that my grandfather's 1970s Allis-Chalmers diesel tractor had an air intake heater as well (this tractor was made somewhere in Eastern Europe, in the late 70s). I looked for the glow plugs on that thing forever and never found them.

The air intake heater really worked--better than I expected. You would just hold the starter switch in the 'preheat' position for several seconds (it was a completely manual system, with the amount of preheat time left up to the discretion of the operator) and it would fire right off.

[rabbit trail:] We sold the tractor at auction a few years back, after it had been sitting for ten years without running or being turned over (after my grandfather died, nobody touched the thing). I put a new battery in it, checked the fuel tank and found the diesel still clear with no evidence of water in the tank, and cranked it w/o using the preheat to try to get some oil pressure first and the darn thing started right up immediately! It startled me as I wasn't expecting it to fire off that quickly. Diesels are really amazing engines.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests