LD28 into Land Rover 110

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windsock
Posts: 144
Joined: 11 years ago
Location: zu ui umop

Re: LD28 into Land Rover 110

#31

Post by windsock » 5 years ago

It has been a long time between visits so am well overdue for an update.

Just clicked over 100,000km on the transplanted engine. This engine cost me NZD$100 and approx. NZD$1000 to transplant.

Problems in that time have been the blocked fuel line, had the leaking IP overhauled, and had the injectors overhauled. Rebuilt the exhaust to go to a 2.5 inch system, moved the radiator back towards the engine to increase fan pull-trough and to create more space aft to mount a winch. Last minor problem was a broken valve cover bolt on completion of the last valve adjustment. Reverse-cut drill bit got that out easy enough.

All in all, the engine is still going strong and still reliable. Still trucking to work in it daily. Still camping and fishing and gathering firewood.

Changes to the truck in the time between last post and this one. I replaced the transfer box which had a 1.667 gear with one that had the 1.41 gear and thus got a bit more road speed out of the old fella :D . I replaced the old 7.50/16 tyres with 235/85 16 radials on wider rims and thus introduced more rolling friction :roll: . Prefer the old measure 750/16s but they're getting harder and more expensive to find. I took the flatbed off and mounted an all aluminum well side deck and this allowed me to put a roll over protection bar in over the cab. This lightened the truck by some 200kg in total.
Good roads lead to bad fishing.

davehoos
Posts: 525
Joined: 14 years ago
Location: Karuah Valley,NSW Australia
Contact:

Re: LD28 into Land Rover 110

#32

Post by davehoos » 5 years ago

we use 750 16 Hankook on canter Rural fire trucks as they have decent casing. replaced a set of perished [OZ made] Olympic this week.

plenty of farmers lined up for the worn out tyres.
WCJR31 Skyline.3.0 manual.wagon
R31 SKYLINE/Passage GT/PINTARA
LPG Ford Falcon 99-06 93 Disco
Local Shire Southern Zone Mechanic.

windsock
Posts: 144
Joined: 11 years ago
Location: zu ui umop

Re: LD28 into Land Rover 110

#33

Post by windsock » 4 years ago

It has been a while. Overdue for an update. I am still about but not nearly as active on forum as once was. Still trucking along though and checking in here from time to time. Clicked over 130,000 km on the engine since transplant to the 110. 30 thou km since last update.

Latest change is I have taken out the viscous fan and put in electric cooling fans. Picked up a few lost ponies along the way and the ability to rev very freely throughout the range is now very appreciated. I had no idea the viscous fan consumed so much horse power and placed rev range limits prior to taking it out. Fuel consumption has appeared to decrease slightly but too early to have anything other than anecdotal evidence. A few more long trips and I'll be able to place a number here sometime.

I used a Davies Craig Electronic Thermal Switch number 0444 seen here set to come on at 87 deg C.

The thermostat in the engine is recently new ex-Japan and was tested by me to be fully open at 82-3 deg C. Once activated, the controller turns the first fan on, and then ten seconds later the other fan starts. Each fan draws approx 11 amps once started. Surge amperage is unknown. The fan switch stays on until temperatures seen by the system probe embedded in the top radiator pipe decreases by 5 deg C (theoretically back to fully open temperature). I have used a twin-thermofan set up from a car widely available here in NZ. The Ford Falcon AU2 (googled here). NZD40 for a complete setup and the fan shroud is an exact match to the land rover radiator. Just had to make a supporting framework to hold the fans and shroud. They were not heavy but the mass moving about on rough country I needed to brace it against vehicle not radiator.

I have built in a wiring redundancy so if the controller faults out I can move a couple of fuses and reconnect a wire thus isolating the faulty controller and then enabling me to manually control the twin fans to cool the truck. While in 'auto' mode though I still have a manual turn on and off. The "manual-on" is good for cooling the truck if it gets hot (but not hot enough to activate automatically) prior to turning the motor off. The "manual-off" I have used to turn the fans off when starting the truck up again after a brief stop where the temperature has crept up to activation levels. The ability to turn off in this situation saves amperage for pre-heating and starting. Once the water pump is circulating again, the temperature drop away quickly and I switch back to auto control. i also use "manual-off" for when crossing deep water. This is great. When I had the viscous fan on in deep water, everything got very wet and the stresses on the fan blades was high enough to make me worry about radiator damage at times.

I have done a few long trips with this with the truck all fully loaded up and the route included hills and long straights etc. I have also commuted to work daily over hills and a 60 km round trip and the system has performed well. The thermostat allows for ram air cooling in a vast majority of distance so far. Thermo-fans kick in periodically when slugging up hills or in slow-mo 4x4 mode. All in all a great change. The summer is just around the corner and a long road trip is planned so I hope all continues rolling as it has done so far.

Cheers
Good roads lead to bad fishing.

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