My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

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waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA
Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#196

Post by waynosworld » 1 year ago

I got lucky today, after searching years for 3.3 gears for the rear axle I finally found a set that look really good, I have been on the fence about the 3.5 gears I have in it now, it is an LSD and when it is wet outside and I am making a left turn the back of the truck tries to come around unless I am light on the pedal, also when is is dry outside and I put my foot in it in a turn the whole truck vibrates as the inside wheel is locked like it is a Detroit Locker, the back of the truck is too light for an LSD.
Right now 3000rpms is around 80mph, I believe 80mph will now be around or under 2800rpms, these gears are the best freeway oriented gears Nissan made for an H190 axle, the only way to lower the engine rpms any more will be to use taller tires, I could not do this without the turbocharger.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#197

Post by waynosworld » 1 year ago

I forgot to get the speedo drive out of the transmission for these 3.3 gears, so I went back the next day and purchased them as I was afraid someone would get that transmission if I waited too long, after I crawled under the truck I realized that no one would likely buy it as there was gear oil everywhere, I think the front cover was broken from loosing the lower cluster gear bearing.
Today I put carriage bolts thru the bed of the box and clamped the cross members to it again, 3 corners had issues, driver side front all the spot welds had failed, I could lift that corner 4", the passenger side front the bed was cracked and getting worse, the back driver side was also cracked, the bed rattled/vibrated something awful at an idle, it was very loud, I will have to paint the carriage bolt heads before it rains.
I might change out the gearset/pumpkin this weekend when it is cooler, I need to buy gear oil first, maybe put it on the ground to check out the bed vibration/rattling issue, I hope it is fixed, I cannot lift any part of the bed now.
I will try to remember to take a photo of my truck in the air, it will likely interest a lot of the forum members.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#198

Post by waynosworld » 1 year ago

Here is how I work under my truck, I can even sit upright in some places.
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It's really quite stable, if I need to install a transmission I get the transmission under there then lower the truck enough that I can deal with it laying on my back after getting it up there above the cross member with the transmission jack.

It is actually raining outside right now, I will do the rear gear change when it is dry.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

plenzen
Posts:869
Joined:13 years ago
Location:Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#199

Post by plenzen » 1 year ago

That's awesome.
Did "the voices" come up with that idea ?
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#200

Post by waynosworld » 1 year ago

I do not know what made me think of using an air jack on each end, but once I figured it out I bought more air jacks and now I can have 2 vehicles in the air at one time.

See the truck in the garage.
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I seen there was another air jack on craigslist recently for cheap, but I already have all of them I need.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#201

Post by waynosworld » 11 months ago

I changed out the rear gears and speedo gear, I can hardly tell the difference RPM wise, now if it is wet outside the right rear wheel spins out in first and second easily, and it will spin in third gear also if given to much pedal while going up hill, but it does not vibrate anymore when making a sharp turn under power.
I should have turbocharged this truck back in 2011 when I found that turbo that is in it now,
I also figured out that when it is cold outside floor the pedal and hold it there till it is running, it starts almost every time on the first try, I used to let off the pedal when it hit and it almost always died before I could get the pedal down again to keep it running, I used to just keep turning it over with the starter till it would stay running, that is kinda hard on the starter.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#202

Post by waynosworld » 10 months ago

I received both the air heater elements I ordered.
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The one with the fitting that looks like a radiator hose would fit on(12920-77502) it appears to me to be too small, it is also thicker(7/8"), I suspect it would bottle neck the air flow, but after thinking about it I hardly use the top third of the pedal anyway since installing the turbocharger so it likely would not matter, but the other one(9129400-77501) is ready to go, it also appears to me that it has the largest hole/orifice so I will use that one, and it is 3/4" thick like the one Plenzen used after having his machined to remove the fitting part, here is a link to what he did.
http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1427
I plan to try to do what he did, but mine is an earlier engine/wiring harness, so mine will likely be a more crude setup without the timer for the air heater element to start with just to see how it works, I will likely use a glow plug relay with a button to supply the power, later I will see if I can integrate into the glow plug timer if it makes a big difference.
I also have a block warmer, but to use it I need to plan ahead, it takes about an hour(maybe less) to warm the block to where it starts fairly easy when below 45 degrees, my engine don't like starting below when it has been cold for 8+ hours, and it has not started at all below freezing in the past unless I used the block warmer, this will be for when I forgot to plug it in and when I go somewhere where I cannot plug it in like when traveling, as this is the vehicle I like to drive on trips.
It might be a few days before I start this project, I am still working part time and this is when people want their gutters cleaned out, so I work when I can.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

handcannon
Posts:57
Joined:4 years ago

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#203

Post by handcannon » 10 months ago

Wayno, what is the bolt spacing for the heater that is flat both sides? The SD-22 intake is about 1 3/4 inch by 1 3/4 inch center to center to center (square) of the bolts. It's not easy to get accurate dimensions when the parts are still in place, so it could be slightly more or less than 1 3/4 inch. This heater would fit perfectly between the intake and manifold on the SD-22. I'm hoping that the heater bolt spacing is close enough to be able to use this heater as a back-up to the glow-plugs for those colder days. Also, was this heater used like the other one was? If it was new, what web site did you get it from?

Don

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#204

Post by waynosworld » 10 months ago

Sorry guy, it is 2 3/8ths on the mount hole centers and that is what the SD25 measures out at.

The one with the radiator looking hose mount on one end is the used one, the flat one is new, I found both of them on ebay, the flat new one was cheaper than the used one, there could be one out there that will fit the 1 3/4" SD22 throttle body, you would just have to find it.

But you could make something like this in the photos below and put it in front of the SD22 metal cover that leads to the hose coming from the air filter housing, but with a straight piece of rubber tubing not the 90 degree bend I used as an example in the photos below.
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I don't really know how well it would work that far away from the intake manifold as the air will cool as it makes its way into the intake and cylinders, but it likely is better than nothing.

I don't know if you ever read how I setup my 1980 720 turbo diesel as a draw thru, it actually worked pretty good but I have been using a turbocharger that was not meant to be used on draw thru applications, it worked fine except for having the wrong type of turbocharger as when I let off the pedal it sucked oil thru the turbocharger seal and fed it into the engine, I could drive it because I knew how to drive it and what not to do, but no one else could drive it, but it is the reason I figured out how to pipe it as a blow thru, it drove fine with the throttle body in front of the turbo way over close to the stock 720 diesel housing, and it drove normal but was running lean, I could accelerate very fast to 60mph but then ran into a wall, it just didn't want to go past 64mph as it was not getting enough fuel, I went thru all that on this forum in my 1980 Datsun 720 diesel thread, how I figured out how to make it run richer is how I figured out how to make it a blow thru without issues, I suspect I could have got 40+mpg set up that way before I figured out how to make it run richer, but I cannot drive 50/55mph on the freeway, it drives me crazy when slow people are causing backups, I just want to go at least the speed limit, and 64mph don't cut it.
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It did not drive weird set up this way above, when I gave it the pedal it went fast until 60mph, when I let off it slowed down, no delays either, but the air being sucked into the turbocharger made that venturi in the throttle body create vacuum even when floored so it ran lean, I figured out if I added a little boost to that vacuum line with a valve it ran richer and it went like crazy after that, and that is how I figured out how to pipe it as a blow thru, by adding boost to the injection pump vent line to make it run leaner.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#205

Post by waynosworld » 10 months ago

Here are a couple auctions for the part I bought, the second one is cheap.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yanmar-Heating ... SwYshUaWG6

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yanmar-Heating ... 8683!US!-1

And here is the used one with the fitting on it I bought, I have not tried it to see if it works yet.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/129100-77500-G ... SwcOZcCUqQ

Like I said, your SD22 throttle body is not the same size as the SD25 throttle body, you could move the throttle body to a different place so you could put the air heater element right on top of the intake hole with adapters and then have the throttle body on the end of the stock metal housing like I suggested in my last post, but I would suggest waiting till I try this myself, in the end it is much easier to have a block heater, nothing has to be modified, just don't go on vacation to a place where the high for the day will be below freezing unless you can plug in somewhere.
Last edited by waynosworld 10 months ago, edited 2 times in total.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

plenzen
Posts:869
Joined:13 years ago
Location:Cochrane Alberta Canada

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#206

Post by plenzen » 10 months ago

FYI on bolt spacing is 60 mm

Post 22 this thread.

http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopi ... 7&start=15
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#207

Post by waynosworld » 10 months ago

I actually read that thread of yours Plenzen, I was the last one to post to it 5 years ago, but if I don't actually do what you did, I will completely forget everything.
Now that this truck is my favorite vehicle to drive I want to drive it year round.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

handcannon
Posts:57
Joined:4 years ago

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#208

Post by handcannon » 10 months ago

Thank you both wayno and plenzen for replying and giving me the info I needed. I was aware that there was a difference in size in the air intake between the SD-22 and SD-25, but not how much difference. Wayno gave the difference in inches, plenzen in metric. What it boils down to is .55118 in difference, or almost 9/16ths inch (less than 1/64th inch smaller). I was hoping for less difference so that I could just file the holes oblong, but not possible with that much difference.

I started looking to see if there was anything close to the SD-22 (1.81102 inch) in size. So far I haven't found anything, but I haven't had much time to search either. Hopefully I will have a bit of time tomorrow morning before I have to take the new pups (born Sunday evening) down to the vet.

Don

waynosworld
Posts:519
Joined:7 years ago
Location:Vancouver Washington USA

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#209

Post by waynosworld » 10 months ago

I found searching "intake heater element" shows more results, unfortunately most of this type we are talking about are for larger diesel engines, and I cannot imagine they would be smaller than the ones I bought, a lot of them are 1000 watt elements and expensive.
There are other types that appear to mount like a 02 sensor, not sure which type is better or worse, but there are a lot of them out there.
I also searched "small tractor intake heater element".
The flat one I bought seems to be the easiest type to install on my SD25 intake manifold, unfortunately I forgot about my starter issue I have, the top bolt hole that holds my starter in position is stripped out, to fix it properly I need to remove the transmission or remove everything on the driver side to get the starter out so I can drill the hole all the way thru and put a washer/nut where the hole exits the transmission case, right now I have a turn buckle with an eye on each end, the starter has a nipple that sticks out the center front of the starter, I put one of the eyes on that, the other end near the throttle body uses one of the throttle body mount bolts with a "Z" shaped tang the the eye is connected to, I tightened the turnbuckle just tight enough to hold the starter up against the transmission plate so the starter meshes with the flywheel starter teeth without skipping teeth, it is a fine line, too loose it skips teeth, too tight and I might break something, I also have a block of wood jammed between the engine mount bracket and the starter, I am not inclined to change anything right now as it runs great, so I am not going to try and re-do what I have done right now, I took the insurance off the 720 because I have not drove but a couple times in the last year but maybe I will mock it up on that engine and get everything working properly in the driveway, but that is not on my top ten list right now.
I did test the new flat one I bought, it took almost a minute to start glowing orange, the outside metal frame/structure got pretty hot also, I didn't take it any farther.
I can think of a couple ways to mount this heater in your SD22 engine, one way is a round or 8 corner plates with the throttle body 45 degrees out of the stock orientation, or putting it in front of the throttle body like I mentioned already, I doubt when in use that it will melt turbocharger tubing when the engine is running, and it should not be on long enough to melt anything getting warmed up to start the engine.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.

handcannon
Posts:57
Joined:4 years ago

Re: My 1969 Datsun 521 kingcab

#210

Post by handcannon » 10 months ago

Thank you for the tips/different wording for searching the internet. That is one area that extra input is very helpful since two minds will come up with different wording for searches.

The flat heater you have is the type I was hoping to find. The other type, the thread in cylindrical type, I have been hoping to avoid as they look like they will intrude and take up more air volume in the intake manifold, and taking up air volume is what I want to avoid if at all possible.

"I can think of a couple ways to mount this heater in your SD22 engine, one way is a round or 8 corner plates with the throttle body 45 degrees out of the stock orientation" (wayno)

I was already thinking of this approach. My biggest concern is space for the studs for the first and second adapter plates. Will there be enough room to get a nut on top of the adapter plate and still get the heater on there? Maybe a flat head machine screw will allow the heater to go on there and still allow the heater to seal up to the first plate. I can measure the head size of some metric machine screws I already have.

One other idea I came up with last night during one of the times I woke up during the night (often when I do my best thinking, I'm not fast, but instead try to be thorough) was to use one of the stock SD-22 studs (only longer to hold the heater also). Then use three new studs/bolts and offset the heater from the stock position. I will need to draw up a full size template of the stock set up and a full size template of the bolt pattern of the heater to see if the first and second adapter plate studs will seal up, and which idea is more viable. Doing so will be a big help to me, and may give me an idea that is totally new.

Don

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