Maxima door locks

#1

My front doors don't want to close when they're locked beforehand. On the drivers side I thought maybe this was a Japanese "can't lock yourself out" feature; but the passenger side seems to behave similarly. The door seems to bounce when you lock it and close it and doesn't latch fully; I think on the driver's side it actually unlocks.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Maybe it's just a matter of adjusting the latch or replacing weatherstripping or something? But the bounce seems to occur mostly when the door is already locked.

I greatly prefer doors that can be locked _then_ closed - also doors that can be opened from inside w/out unlocking. So I have another low priority item to play with, probably when I get to fixing the drivers side crack.

Rufus

#2

You have to lift the outer handle to close the door when it is locked. If you don't, the act of closing the door will unlock the door. If that mechanism is a little stiff, it might act like your description.

#3

Bingo. Thanks

#4

Now a harder one:

Is there any way to mod the door lock/latch linkage so the inside handle will open the door even when it's locked? Maybe not, but never hurts to ask. <g>

Rufus

#5

probably, I wouldnt see why not, using the powers of free time, Ill look at the fsm.

On BF-7 it shows a overview of the interior of the front door, it shows two linkages to the latches, one ofr the interior and one ofr the exterior, They operate on seperate mechanisms, but they may conjoin as one in the middle of the two mechanisms, shown on pic SBF815 on pg BF-9. I cant seem to get my scanner to work, so it sounds like there isnt gonna be no pics from me anytime soon.

It also shown the "check stop" which was my problem with door removal, It sounds like ill be trying to find a replacement pin, ill probably try drilling it to 1/4, slap a bushing on it, and mabye a pin and circlip onto it. It dosent have a stock bushing, but bushings are always good to reduce wear.

Also, since this is door related. Can i use the power lock actuator off a Z car to replace my broken door lock actuator, while I have the door panel off

#6

Rufus:

I doubt that the latch assy. can be modified to provide the function that you desire.

Kassim:
The driver's door (on all Gen1 Maximas) has NO power door lock actuator. Neither does the tailgate on Wagons. It's the stupidest thing you've seen this week. Put another way: All Gen1s have three, and only three, power door lock actuators. Dumb!

Can one be added? Yup. But you will have to run wires. Two, to the door through the front jamb. I'm fairly certain that an actuator and linkage from a front passenger door can be made to work. I looked into it years back.

I can't recall from your previous post in a different thread: are you trying to re-bush the hinge pins, or the door check? If the hinge pins, you'll have to remove the fender to access the hinge bolts (to the A-pillar) without damaging the paint. Fenders around here come off relatively easily, but somehow I doubt that will be the case on your salty end of the continent.

I suppose it's possible that you could remove the door from the hinge, and then remove the hinge from the A-pillar without removing the fender, but I didn't look hard enough at it. Just dealing with the door's wiring harness alone is going to be Not Fun.

#7

asavage wrote: Kassim:
The driver's door (on all Gen1 Maximas) has NO power door lock actuator. Neither does the tailgate on Wagons. It's the stupidest thing you've seen this week. Put another way: All Gen1s have three, and only three, power door lock actuators. Dumb!

I can't recall from your previous post in a different thread: are you trying to re-bush the hinge pins, or the door check? If the hinge pins, you'll have to remove the fender to access the hinge bolts (to the A-pillar) without damaging the paint. Fenders around here come off relatively easily, but somehow I doubt that will be the case on your salty end of the continent.

Lol it definitley is the stupidest thing ive heard all week. Oh well, I tried, thats plenty enough.

I gotta re-bush the hinge pins, I think ill remove the fender and see if I can fix the rot that seems to be originating from the inside of the A pillar. Fenders in general dont really come off without snapping bolts over here, unless you wait long enough and theyll fall of themselves

I replaced the fenders a few years ago, so they probably didnt rust themselves to anything yet.

#8

>[no pwr lock drvrs side]

How crude! But there's some kind of wiring there because I lock the other doors by depressing the driver's door lock button. Don't think they unlock though...

Rufus

#9

There is a lock switch in the driver's door lock button linkage that will trigger an "all lock" (except the tailgate on Wagons).

There is no corresponding "unlock" function in the driver's door. To unlock all (except driver's door and tailgate), you have to lean in and use the console unlock switch.

Maddening, if you manually unlock the pass. door, then reach in to press the console unlock switch (unlocking the two rear doors), then go around and manually unlock the tailgate, then go around and manually unlock the driver's door.

As I said: stoopid.

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