teknomages 1977 280z 2+2 Turbo Intercooled LD28
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- teknomage
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 years ago
- Contact:
teknomages 1977 280z 2+2 Turbo Intercooled LD28
Well I am heare to unviel my 1977 280z 2+2 Turbo Intercooled LD28 weiging in at 2700 lbs buring pump, blend, and SVO averaging about 45 mpg composite and 50 mpg highway. Having a highway range of 880 miles at 60 mph from my grease barrell.
I will provide more detail as I get it written down.
How do we share pics of our rigs?
I will provide more detail as I get it written down.
How do we share pics of our rigs?
-
- Posts: 423
- Joined: 19 years ago
- Location: Denver
Really interested to know more about what you have done. Especially how you are introducing more fuel under full boost conditions.
Ben Martin
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon - DIESEL(For Sale)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon Parts Car - DIESEL(SOLD-Scrapped)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon - DIESEL(For Sale)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon Parts Car - DIESEL(SOLD-Scrapped)
- teknomage
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 years ago
- Contact:
boost compensation
to archive boost compensation I removed the slotted bolt that filters atmospheric pressure into the altitude compensating aneroid on the top of the LD28 fuel injection pump. I determined the size and thread pitch to be 12mm x 2.5 I believe, I picked up a low grade 12mm x 2.5 bolt from the metric section of our local hardware store, placed it in the chuck on my lathe and carefully drilled a 1/16 centered hole through it, I then enlarged this hole partway through to 5/16 and tapped it with my 1/8" NPT pipe thread tap, and screwed in a hose barb, similarly I drilled and taped the intake manifold to accept a matching hose barb and I connected the two with rigid line. (note the slotted bolt removed has a brass filter screen, I removed this filter screen and placed it in the brass hose barb on the aneroid on the injection pump.
I plan to get a dyno tuning job done on this but for now the seat of the pants tells me WOW. Under a spooled hurried takeoff it will lift the front end of the car significantly in first and quite noticeably in second. I would say probably 8 and 5 inches respectively, with this long hood in front of you on the Z at eye level it is quite noticeable.
However, I tested this car for fuel mileage with and without the boost fuel compensation active, and with it active my highway mileage is 37 mpg, with it inactive my highway mileage is 50 mpg, so I have it disconnected until I can obtain a 12vdc 1/4" pneumatic normally closed selonoid to place inline and wire into the TPS and or place a manual switch to enable boost compensation when, well when I just want the power
Check out these two links for more info on this car:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-log. ... cleid=2731
http://forums.hybridz.org/member.php?u=30773
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.ph ... ost1037628
ecomodder is the site I will probably keep the most up to date on this project.
I plan to get a dyno tuning job done on this but for now the seat of the pants tells me WOW. Under a spooled hurried takeoff it will lift the front end of the car significantly in first and quite noticeably in second. I would say probably 8 and 5 inches respectively, with this long hood in front of you on the Z at eye level it is quite noticeable.
However, I tested this car for fuel mileage with and without the boost fuel compensation active, and with it active my highway mileage is 37 mpg, with it inactive my highway mileage is 50 mpg, so I have it disconnected until I can obtain a 12vdc 1/4" pneumatic normally closed selonoid to place inline and wire into the TPS and or place a manual switch to enable boost compensation when, well when I just want the power

Check out these two links for more info on this car:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-log. ... cleid=2731
http://forums.hybridz.org/member.php?u=30773
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.ph ... ost1037628
ecomodder is the site I will probably keep the most up to date on this project.
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- Posts: 423
- Joined: 19 years ago
- Location: Denver
Sounds like you've done some serious work (and homework). And you appear to be only one state over!
You appear to be the first one on this site to successfully complete the turbo mod. Everyone has talked about it but no one has done it yet (as far as I know).
I am very interested in exactly what you have done. The info on the fuel compensation is very interesting. Most have suggested using an LDA (or equivalent) from a VW TDI. The intercooler piping and the install look quite sanitary. Looks like you've done a nice job.
I am considering a move to the mountains of CO, and would have to turbo this car to make it even remotely usable at altitude. It is slow enough on surface streets at a Mile High, let alone 10,000 feet - it smokes like a locomotive.
Looks like we need a write-up on this!
You appear to be the first one on this site to successfully complete the turbo mod. Everyone has talked about it but no one has done it yet (as far as I know).
I am very interested in exactly what you have done. The info on the fuel compensation is very interesting. Most have suggested using an LDA (or equivalent) from a VW TDI. The intercooler piping and the install look quite sanitary. Looks like you've done a nice job.
I am considering a move to the mountains of CO, and would have to turbo this car to make it even remotely usable at altitude. It is slow enough on surface streets at a Mile High, let alone 10,000 feet - it smokes like a locomotive.
Looks like we need a write-up on this!

Ben Martin
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon - DIESEL(For Sale)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon Parts Car - DIESEL(SOLD-Scrapped)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon - DIESEL(For Sale)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon Parts Car - DIESEL(SOLD-Scrapped)
- teknomage
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 years ago
- Contact:
eisinhour pass 11500 ft up
I have been over eisinhour pass at a crest of 11500 ft in colorado twice in my maxima diesiel N/A talk about gasping for air, as you drop down through the gears and wind yourself up the grade. Expect to use 2nd and 3rd most of the time above 8000.
Now I would like to take it with the same engine in the Z now turbocharged, I think I could keep it in 5th, except for only the steepest slow corners needing 4th. If I could make the pass at 60+ I bet I could keep it in 5th.
Now I would like to take it with the same engine in the Z now turbocharged, I think I could keep it in 5th, except for only the steepest slow corners needing 4th. If I could make the pass at 60+ I bet I could keep it in 5th.
-
- Posts: 423
- Joined: 19 years ago
- Location: Denver
With the extra weight of the wagon body and a 3 spd A/T, I'd expect to be in 2nd, puffing smoke like a tractor trailer at that elevation. Probably holding 45 or 50 mph if I'm lucky.
Even a little help from a turbo with a modest amount of boost should clean it up and provide a little more power...
Even a little help from a turbo with a modest amount of boost should clean it up and provide a little more power...
Ben Martin
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon - DIESEL(For Sale)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon Parts Car - DIESEL(SOLD-Scrapped)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon - DIESEL(For Sale)
'81 Datsun 810 Maxima Wagon Parts Car - DIESEL(SOLD-Scrapped)
- teknomage
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 years ago
- Contact:
ongoing detail
I just got my 1977 280Z 2+2 on the road with its turbo intercooled ld28 diesel engine, power is more than sufficient, but at 650+ miles to a tank and the ability to go on road trips free using restaurant waste veggi oil, I am loving it. My bull mastiff is loving the extra space in the back with the seat folded down
you can take a look at my ongoing fuel log if you are interested in real world fuel mileage with this combination:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-l...vehicleid=2731
This link will take you to the ongoing spec for this car as I customize and hybridize it.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/emgarage....vehicleid=2731
I took thorough pics of the swap and can talk details to any one who needs just drop me a PM
to answer some of the questions in this post:
I am using the stock 280zxt turbo and manifold (get out your grinder to fit it) with a custom down pipe and 3" mandrel bent exhaust with two borla straight through glass packs (for a throaty but quite cruiz tone, I like to talk to my girl on the highway now and then). No angles greater than 60 degrees in the exhaust. I am seeing boost building just off idle with 1 psi by 30 mph, and 2.5 psi by 65 mph on an easy steady level cruise.
The LD28 is a unthrottled diesel so it takes all the air it can get and needs no pop off valve. Diesels are variable air fuel ratio engines so you just add as much fuel as needed for the power you want, any excess air is just a working fluid for high temperature gaseous pressure to exert force on the piston.
That said when I connect manifold pressure to the aneroid on fuel injection pump additional fuel is injected proportional to manifold pressure density. Power and acceleration are great and fuel mileage is in the high 30's
Disconnect this line so no additional fuel is injected under boost and the engine runs extra lean (no problem for a diesel) I still feel the turbo surge but the power is less and I get in the mid 40's for miles per gallon.
I will be adding a solenoid to only allow manifold pressure to the aneroid at the press of a red button on my shifter or by micro switch on the throttle bell crank at 3/4+ to full, this button will run a few other things like a shot of steam on the turbo turbine to spool it .
As I bring this project all together I will get a dyno run for us to google at.
No modifications need to be made to the LD28 until your boost levels approach 20 psi, I read one case history where the stock tired head gasket let go at 20 psi of boost. Just replace it with a better quality head gasket and head bolts if you blow it trying to go with max boost +++
I plan on using the condensation tank in the rear passenger quarter fender as a 2nd fuel tank in a dual tank svo system holding kerosene for easy starts, warm ups, and shutdowns. Switching to the main tanks full of veggi oil for cruzing.
I might even add a parallel hybrid electric motor on the drive shaft for short runs to the store and back without firing up the engine, or for a little more scurry
One indispensable gauge you need to add to your cluster is an egt pyrometer on the number 5 exhaust port and keep it under 1300 F and you have a Z capable of a million miles!
diesel is a lubricant
gasoline is a solvent
how long is your engine going to last?
My pyrometer at the number 6 exhaust valve before the turbo, observations have been
200-300F at idle
450-550F at highway cruize
750-950F at full speed climb
I have been unable to push above 950F under any conditions, so egt is not a problem for turbocharging the LD28. What I have observed under heavy acceleration and climb is a spike in temperature in the coolant, I believe is due to the heat build up in and around the pocket combustion chambers under extended periods of high horsepower.
The LD28 for this project came out of my 81 nissan maxima manual that pulled the stock 77 Z 2+2 normally aspirated from fresno california up el cahone up black rock to the high plains desert in milford utah at 5500 feet above sea level and averaged 38 mpg on the highway pulling a whole other car near its own weight.............
Enjoy, and please comment.
you can take a look at my ongoing fuel log if you are interested in real world fuel mileage with this combination:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-l...vehicleid=2731
This link will take you to the ongoing spec for this car as I customize and hybridize it.
http://ecomodder.com/forum/emgarage....vehicleid=2731
I took thorough pics of the swap and can talk details to any one who needs just drop me a PM
to answer some of the questions in this post:
I am using the stock 280zxt turbo and manifold (get out your grinder to fit it) with a custom down pipe and 3" mandrel bent exhaust with two borla straight through glass packs (for a throaty but quite cruiz tone, I like to talk to my girl on the highway now and then). No angles greater than 60 degrees in the exhaust. I am seeing boost building just off idle with 1 psi by 30 mph, and 2.5 psi by 65 mph on an easy steady level cruise.
The LD28 is a unthrottled diesel so it takes all the air it can get and needs no pop off valve. Diesels are variable air fuel ratio engines so you just add as much fuel as needed for the power you want, any excess air is just a working fluid for high temperature gaseous pressure to exert force on the piston.
That said when I connect manifold pressure to the aneroid on fuel injection pump additional fuel is injected proportional to manifold pressure density. Power and acceleration are great and fuel mileage is in the high 30's
Disconnect this line so no additional fuel is injected under boost and the engine runs extra lean (no problem for a diesel) I still feel the turbo surge but the power is less and I get in the mid 40's for miles per gallon.
I will be adding a solenoid to only allow manifold pressure to the aneroid at the press of a red button on my shifter or by micro switch on the throttle bell crank at 3/4+ to full, this button will run a few other things like a shot of steam on the turbo turbine to spool it .
As I bring this project all together I will get a dyno run for us to google at.
No modifications need to be made to the LD28 until your boost levels approach 20 psi, I read one case history where the stock tired head gasket let go at 20 psi of boost. Just replace it with a better quality head gasket and head bolts if you blow it trying to go with max boost +++
I plan on using the condensation tank in the rear passenger quarter fender as a 2nd fuel tank in a dual tank svo system holding kerosene for easy starts, warm ups, and shutdowns. Switching to the main tanks full of veggi oil for cruzing.
I might even add a parallel hybrid electric motor on the drive shaft for short runs to the store and back without firing up the engine, or for a little more scurry
One indispensable gauge you need to add to your cluster is an egt pyrometer on the number 5 exhaust port and keep it under 1300 F and you have a Z capable of a million miles!
diesel is a lubricant
gasoline is a solvent
how long is your engine going to last?
My pyrometer at the number 6 exhaust valve before the turbo, observations have been
200-300F at idle
450-550F at highway cruize
750-950F at full speed climb
I have been unable to push above 950F under any conditions, so egt is not a problem for turbocharging the LD28. What I have observed under heavy acceleration and climb is a spike in temperature in the coolant, I believe is due to the heat build up in and around the pocket combustion chambers under extended periods of high horsepower.
The LD28 for this project came out of my 81 nissan maxima manual that pulled the stock 77 Z 2+2 normally aspirated from fresno california up el cahone up black rock to the high plains desert in milford utah at 5500 feet above sea level and averaged 38 mpg on the highway pulling a whole other car near its own weight.............
Enjoy, and please comment.
- teknomage
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 15 years ago
- Contact:
- leadpaw
- Posts: 28
- Joined: 17 years ago
- Location: northern california
Re: Images
teknomage wrote:How do I insert images of the engine swap and or create a gallery for the car?[/img]
host your images on a photo site such as Flickr.com,photobucket.com
or image shack.

1985 diesel sentra
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- Posts: 209
- Joined: 19 years ago
- Location: Florence, AZ
Hi teknoimage, sounds like a really sweet car. Any updates on it since your last post and did you get a chance to run that down a track for a 1/4 mile time?
1982 Datsun Maxima diesel wagon w/ 228k miles
*occasional daily driver*
1982 Datsun Maxima diesel sedan w/ 252k miles
*now off the road as a parts car and sent to the yard
*
*occasional daily driver*
1982 Datsun Maxima diesel sedan w/ 252k miles
*now off the road as a parts car and sent to the yard

-
- Posts: 12
- Joined: 15 years ago
- Contact:
Hello, very cool project and great MPG numbers!!! I'm building a Dakota for a daily driver / light towing of a small camper and I'm looking to get the best MPG as possible.
I thought your IP mod for boost reference was brilliant and the three way SOV to add in increased MPG and performance with a switch was intriguing...
Would it be possible for you to share some Hi-res pictures and detailed info on this thread or in another "How To" thread so that myself and others can follow? Thanks Frank
I thought your IP mod for boost reference was brilliant and the three way SOV to add in increased MPG and performance with a switch was intriguing...
Would it be possible for you to share some Hi-res pictures and detailed info on this thread or in another "How To" thread so that myself and others can follow? Thanks Frank
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- Posts: 117
- Joined: 18 years ago
- Location: Prunedale Ca. 93907
- Contact:
Re: boost compensation
Quite entertaining to see a thread that I posted in, in 2005.teknomage wrote:....
Check out these two links for more info on this car:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/em-fuel-log. ... cleid=2731
http://forums.hybridz.org/member.php?u=30773
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.ph ... ost1037628
ecomodder is the site I will probably keep the most up to date on this project.
Extremely entertaining to see that someone posted the very next posting 2 years later arguing my point and using their own numbers to disprove their own point. Though admittedly I was a bit younger and much greener.
On a more proper note: Man that is a sweet setup! Wish mine would have worked out. I had a good day or two run with it in my 260Z. Maybe the Diesel Maxima will come through for me.
Why not Propane injected?
Another question; what did you end up doing to use the STD T3 from the 280ZX to make it work on the LD? Specifically what was done with the waste gate, or has it been incorporated into your design?
Ray
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- Joined: 19 years ago
- Location: West Palm Beach Florida
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