land rover LD28 clutch issues
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- Posts: 95
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- Location: Bradenton, FL
land rover LD28 clutch issues
Ok this is probably more for the rover guys, but I know a few folks, like me, have put a LD28 into a rover.
So here is what I ran into. The pressure plate is a series 9.5 inch with a new clutch. The flywheel was already drilled out so that was relatively easy. The LD28 has about a 1/2 inch steel plate adapter on back it that mates to the rover LT95 . The problem is that the clutch fork is bottoming out on the bellhousing (where the slave rod pushes it) prior to the throwout bearing hitting the pressure plate (it barely hits it but not enough to disengage). Ive got the correct throwout bearing (verified that). I also tried to remove the ball pin that the lever runs on to see if I could elongate it but it is pressed in. This motor was in a FC101 (with a short bellhousing LT95 I believe) but damn if I can make it work.
My solutions at the moment seem to be this.
I got a used Pressure plate from a series 2. still 9.5 inches but it has a ring around the springs where the throwout hits it. I was thinking I could weld a ring onto it to "extend" it closer to the throwout bearing
Or weld longer "tabs" onto the lever so it pushes the throw out out further.
It seems to me though that this should not be necessary, but something is wrong and Im looking for ideas! Thanks Gordo
So here is what I ran into. The pressure plate is a series 9.5 inch with a new clutch. The flywheel was already drilled out so that was relatively easy. The LD28 has about a 1/2 inch steel plate adapter on back it that mates to the rover LT95 . The problem is that the clutch fork is bottoming out on the bellhousing (where the slave rod pushes it) prior to the throwout bearing hitting the pressure plate (it barely hits it but not enough to disengage). Ive got the correct throwout bearing (verified that). I also tried to remove the ball pin that the lever runs on to see if I could elongate it but it is pressed in. This motor was in a FC101 (with a short bellhousing LT95 I believe) but damn if I can make it work.
My solutions at the moment seem to be this.
I got a used Pressure plate from a series 2. still 9.5 inches but it has a ring around the springs where the throwout hits it. I was thinking I could weld a ring onto it to "extend" it closer to the throwout bearing
Or weld longer "tabs" onto the lever so it pushes the throw out out further.
It seems to me though that this should not be necessary, but something is wrong and Im looking for ideas! Thanks Gordo
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: 14 years ago
- Location: Bradenton, FL
I used the LD28 manual flywheel as it was already on the engine. I talked to the prior owner today and he had this motor with the same adapter in a FC101. It has the LT95 but it has a shorter bellhousing. I would suspect everything is pretty similar and he had no issues. He couldnt recall what pressure plate he ran, but since it is drilled out for a series plate I assume that is what he ran.exmod110 wrote:What flywheel did you use? gasser or diesel? the diesel is almost twice as thick.....
I did not use an lt95... mine was ld 28 lt77 combo. so i am not familiar with that set up....
I would think both of our set ups are similar inside the box though as I believe the throwout bearing is the same for all manual rovers.
This seems very odd to me, but the lever is clearly bottoming out on the bellhousing right when the bearing hits the pressure plate
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: 14 years ago
- Location: Bradenton, FL
Yeah I think the bellhousing is 8 inches shorter, but so is the input shaft and finding used 101 parts are not easy over here! And not cheap. I ended up welding a ring of 1/2 steel to the pressure plate off the series 2. It has a ring around it on the "springs" and seemed to work well (although it didnt want to weld good to the ring, but it seems to be stuck well). Probably going to throw the balance off a bit but its just a trail rig so I think it will be fine. I tried to get the clutch lever pivot arm off to extend but its pressed in and I couldnt get it off. I wasnt wild about that idea either as it could push the throwout bearing a bit past the collar around the input shaft. I will try to post some photos up as Phil has been asking too! Thanks, I will keep you posted.
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Hi JasperG,
I too am unfamiliar with the LT95 box (long or short bellhousing) as I too have the LT77 box.
a couple of things come to mind when reading your posts. Have you got the right clutch slave cylinder set up, i.e. is there enough travel in either the cylinder or is the hydraulic system bled thoroughly. Is the shaft that links between the cylinder and the clutch fork long enough? I guess you have checked the structural integrity of the clutch fork. Some of these split at the ball joint and fail by either bending or splitting on the LT77 and I assume this is the same as the LT95.
Here my lack of knowledge of the LT95 gets the better of me. One is assuming that the shorter bellhousing had a proportionally shorter mainshaft. Is this necessarily correct. By using the longer bell housing is there the same lengths involved by proportion? If not then perhaps a different clutch fork and throw-out bearing is required. I think a good place to get some of the gearbox questions answered by those that use and fix them would be a forum I frequent. The Australian Land Rover Owners group. Many different sub-groups and so many experts in the many and varied configurations of these vehicles. There are not many LD28 folk on there so don't expect many responses if questioning about these engines but I can certainly vouch for the fact there are folk on there that can assist with the configurations of these gearboxes. Once signed up search the forums for some answers and if none pending ask a few questions on this box on some of the series, Stage 1 or FC101 fora.
Sorry i cannot be much more help. All the best.
Phil
I too am unfamiliar with the LT95 box (long or short bellhousing) as I too have the LT77 box.
a couple of things come to mind when reading your posts. Have you got the right clutch slave cylinder set up, i.e. is there enough travel in either the cylinder or is the hydraulic system bled thoroughly. Is the shaft that links between the cylinder and the clutch fork long enough? I guess you have checked the structural integrity of the clutch fork. Some of these split at the ball joint and fail by either bending or splitting on the LT77 and I assume this is the same as the LT95.
Here my lack of knowledge of the LT95 gets the better of me. One is assuming that the shorter bellhousing had a proportionally shorter mainshaft. Is this necessarily correct. By using the longer bell housing is there the same lengths involved by proportion? If not then perhaps a different clutch fork and throw-out bearing is required. I think a good place to get some of the gearbox questions answered by those that use and fix them would be a forum I frequent. The Australian Land Rover Owners group. Many different sub-groups and so many experts in the many and varied configurations of these vehicles. There are not many LD28 folk on there so don't expect many responses if questioning about these engines but I can certainly vouch for the fact there are folk on there that can assist with the configurations of these gearboxes. Once signed up search the forums for some answers and if none pending ask a few questions on this box on some of the series, Stage 1 or FC101 fora.
Sorry i cannot be much more help. All the best.
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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Just looked at a good source of info on all things LR... TeriAnn has some good info here.
I'll keep looking here and there. Let us know how you are going too.
Cheers,
Phil
I have highlighted the bit of interest to here I think. Could be worthwhile confirming as I think this implies a difference proprtionally beteen the two bellhousing versions.The LT 95 was a robust four speed gearbox with the transfer case built into the same enclosure (but they have different fluid reservoirs). One of the nice things about the LT95 was that there were a number of transfer case ratios available and you did not need to pull the box to change them. The gearbox was used on Range Rover through 1983, all 109 Stage 1 V8, all 101 and on 1983 and 1984 V8 Nineties and One Tens. The 101 LT95 is different from the unit used in the early RR or 110 V8s. The biggest difference is the bell housing and input shaft are shorter and the high ratio gear is pretty tall so, unless you're running big rubber you will run out of RPMs pretty quickly. The gear on the top of the box is very short as the 101 has a remote gear linkage. If you're putting it into a different Land Rover you will need to either modify the gear shift lever or source one from an early RR or 110 V8. The LT95 has a central diff so it powers both axles all the time. You'll need CV half shafts in the front axle. The center diff is lockable using a vacuum actuator. This requires a vacuum line to be run from the engine.
I'll keep looking here and there. Let us know how you are going too.
Cheers,
Phil
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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- Posts: 95
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- Location: Bradenton, FL
Hey Phil thanks a bunch for the help.Ive been on that sight quite a bit too! Figured out my manual diff lock conversion lever over there!
I finally gave in and welded a plate to the Series 2 style pressure plate. Seemed the easiest way to do it. It works well now. I think it was merely a clearance issue as the fork is fine, but it was hitting the case when it made contact with the pressure plate. If I have to break it apart again, I will probably remove the bellhousing and extend the pivot arm itself. My only fear there is that the throw out bearing may push past the collar on the output shaft. Either way it is working good and I was tooling around town in it today.
Going wheeling Wed-Sun with the Floridalandroverclub so Im glad its up and running. I got some photos today out of the shop and will post once I get them downloaded. Many thanks
I finally gave in and welded a plate to the Series 2 style pressure plate. Seemed the easiest way to do it. It works well now. I think it was merely a clearance issue as the fork is fine, but it was hitting the case when it made contact with the pressure plate. If I have to break it apart again, I will probably remove the bellhousing and extend the pivot arm itself. My only fear there is that the throw out bearing may push past the collar on the output shaft. Either way it is working good and I was tooling around town in it today.
Going wheeling Wed-Sun with the Floridalandroverclub so Im glad its up and running. I got some photos today out of the shop and will post once I get them downloaded. Many thanks
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: 14 years ago
- Location: Bradenton, FL
Hey Phil, it performed very well thanks! I had a few quirks the final day as I pushed the envelope a bit too much, but nothing drastic!windsock wrote:Excellent news, well done. Look forward to the photos and the stories from the few days of wheeling.
I cant figure out how to load photos that I can view so here is a link that I hope works! Still have to finish a cage and a few things but its on the trail and running good.
http://www.floridalandroverclub.com/pho ... fullsize=1
http://www.floridalandroverclub.com/pho ... fullsize=1
http://www.floridalandroverclub.com/pho ... fullsize=1
http://www.floridalandroverclub.com/pho ... fullsize=1
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Host site > Open the photo, right click, properties, copy address (URL) > recipient site > [img]paste%20address%20(URL)[/img]
Be sure to do the [img]...[/img] code right and viola
Also pays to have the images at 600x480 pixals or whatever the resolution is for websites. I had posted them here in this post but your original photos are very wide. Good pictures though.
Nice day out. Looks great. Liking the bobbed look of the rear of the truck and the pup on the hood!
I have seen variations of the last shot but never with polka-dot boots, nice touch...
Watch out for mud getting up into the injector pump timing belt. there are small breather spaces on the bottom of the cover plate. Mud up in there equals pain later on eventually. Don't know what to do to stop mud getting in there without also blocking the hole that lets much out. Had thought about a duck-bill breather...
Be sure to do the [img]...[/img] code right and viola
Also pays to have the images at 600x480 pixals or whatever the resolution is for websites. I had posted them here in this post but your original photos are very wide. Good pictures though.
Nice day out. Looks great. Liking the bobbed look of the rear of the truck and the pup on the hood!
I have seen variations of the last shot but never with polka-dot boots, nice touch...
Watch out for mud getting up into the injector pump timing belt. there are small breather spaces on the bottom of the cover plate. Mud up in there equals pain later on eventually. Don't know what to do to stop mud getting in there without also blocking the hole that lets much out. Had thought about a duck-bill breather...
Good roads lead to bad fishing.
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: 14 years ago
- Location: Bradenton, FL
Didnt even think about that Phil. Trust me those polkadot boots arent mine! HAHA. My wife is stylish even in the woods. The old truck did great. I did blow a power steering pump (discovery) and the alternator seems to be drawing the battery down now, but it still works. Luckily I have an extra one of each! Hoping to get it out again around Memorial day weekend.windsock wrote:Host site > Open the photo, right click, properties, copy address (URL) > recipient site > [img]paste%20address%20(URL)[/img]
Be sure to do the [img]...[/img] code right and viola
Also pays to have the images at 600x480 pixals or whatever the resolution is for websites. I had posted them here in this post but your original photos are very wide. Good pictures though.
Nice day out. Looks great. Liking the bobbed look of the rear of the truck and the pup on the hood!
I have seen variations of the last shot but never with polka-dot boots, nice touch...
Watch out for mud getting up into the injector pump timing belt. there are small breather spaces on the bottom of the cover plate. Mud up in there equals pain later on eventually. Don't know what to do to stop mud getting in there without also blocking the hole that lets much out. Had thought about a duck-bill breather...
One other thing, I pulled the valve cover off to retorque the head and noticed one of my springs had moved out of the groove on the rocker arms. I popped it back in place and also removed and checked the relief valves in the block, oil cooler and filter. The filter and cooler valves were in place and functioning but someone plugged the relief valve in the block. I also changed the o ring inside the cooler/filter housing. Pressure went up a few pounds at hot idle so I am now around 7-10 lbs at hot idle so I think the pressure is okay now. Thanks again for your help...
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- Posts: 95
- Joined: 14 years ago
- Location: Bradenton, FL
Thought I might post a video up too so you can hear it running. Gordo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIn7kI7f6c4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIn7kI7f6c4
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