ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

#1

figured Id finally post my swap thread as I have been under mad scramble to find parts and other things. my whole year has been the craziest luck in the best and worst ways, in more then just these trucks haha. I also just want to state for the record I am a certified mechanic and I currently work at an industrial forklift repair shop. Which ironically is Nissan industrial for the province. To find two of these totally randomly one day, it was like a sign to me. To find two rare beast of the 86.5-87 D21 in Canada is nuts. People told me to buy lottery tickets haha

truck 1 home... not looking promising as hood has been off for many years apparently and air cleaner nut was missing.

truck 2 home

motor out of truck one. This is what happens when retard farmers don't do enough oil changes.... and over heat it..... then leave it half apart with no air cleaner nut 10 years. head has small cracks. i sent it to local shop to have it mag tested and its not CRAZY cracked... so I may have buddy TIG it and I'll use it as a spare.

motor out of truck 2. ya know as a mechanic... ive seen a lot of motors of all kinds. but this is just bad.... I was really hoping this was just a headgasket problem. but I noticed when I was taking the motor out the glow plugs had been re-wired. so this just spells ether starting fluid. some of the prechambers are even cracked so bad they are blooned out slightly into the cylinder area. Seeing this only convinced me to steal an intake grid heater out of cummins and plumb it in with the glow plugs. but use a seperate switch. for the really COLD days up here it would make a monstrous difference

so currently im sitting with 2 cracked cylinder heads. BUT!! my forklift connections have pulled through with a recylcer out of arizona has a good head with a some pushrod hole damage. but they mag'd it and it checks out! so thats on its way.

#2

I looked around and look and looked. I ended up in ebay looking motor parts and kits. My issue was everyone in north america that supplied parts have industrial piston kits. so I ended up finding a place in australia called "roo dogs 4wd parts" and he had the truck kit and parts... I felt a huge risk buying these parts knowing OEM quality is usually best. he ensured me this kits quality is oem standard or higher. all the parts cost me just under 1500 with duty.

the parts look like they are reasonable quality. but I have no choice really given I cant find much local or online. to bad I dont live in australia or europe or japan, when nissan diesels are in heavy equipment, boats, forklifts, trucks, vans, suv's.... i wish...

so i now am just in search of a 4x4 oil pan somewhere. not really wanting to cut up my 4cyl pan... and not really wanting to make a pan. But TIG welding buddy says he will help. but, i think he has other motives as he is getting me to fix the 4cyl in his 4x4 d21 like mine. his did the typical droping timing guide and eat out the front cover trick

#3

im also curious as to low compression ratio in the sd25 non-720 model. im not sure if the head gasket thickness or the pistons is the reason. 5 ring vs 3 ring?

I measured all my headgaskets and new one aswell and they all are 1.15mm. I'm just curious as I plan to turbo this motor is i can get my compression that smidge lower. I made sure the kits pistons had the steel impedded ring as is says "alfin" on the box. it does appear to be steel but its not magnetic. hard to say if there is enough steel to really get a magnet to stick. as far as I have read anywhere a steel imbedded ring land is turbo OK. I don't plan for anything crazy 5-7 psi tops. as this 4x4 is going to be more of a boat... then a truck haha. suspension is getting all modded and putting bilstein shocks in. Then time to plan a small expedition or 2

I have read that an sd23t apparently existed? I'm assuming since sd23 and sd25 use same pistons just different stroke thats why the motor all appears to be built for boost with metal head gasket, steel compression ring, piston oil jets. but nobody has any idea what your talking about if you ask... let alone anything nissan diesel it seems.

#4

Interesting thead. Lots of work, hopefully it all works out for you. keep us posted.
Thank-you
pete

#5

thought id post some more updates here.

got my block, head, crank, rods back from machine shop. looking perfect... i will get the micrometer and bore gauges out just to double check tho. cost me $1100 for all the machining done locally. cylinder head came from m&m forklift recyclers in arizona. they crack check the head and shipped... cost $600. Engine rebuild kit $1400 inculding shipping from ebay australia.

got 4 injectors off one motor rebuilt, and got the other 4 cleaned and tested. cost me $260 locally.

4x4 oil pump off ebay - $125 with shipping.

went to local nissan car dealer and ordered all the little hoses and pipes for coolant to the oil/injection pump/cylinder head, also got thermostat and new crank pilot bushing -$95

one of the engines had a fresh clutch and flywheel job. so that is a nice bonus. still gotta get check out the alternator and starter. see if they need attention. I decided to go the extra mile on this engine since its all mechanical, and has the asia/europe VE kiki injection pump. I'm polishing all the aluminum and painting everything with high grade engine enamel for easy dirt cleaning. I also selected a very light/bright colour. I found in the trade an engine all one colour is hard to destinguish parts, specially in the dark. So I'm hoping the result of various painting will make it easier to work on if i need to on the trail.

the 3 cylinder heads. 2 truck heads are marked NF .1.2. and the forklift head had some confusing markings not like the truck, but was marked K2-A. both heads appear to be the same. cast with inserted prechambers. according to engine spec the industrial engine has 20.7 compression instead of trucks 21.5. so I hope forklift head and metal headgasket gets me abit lower for boost

got majority of the extras going in, couple gauges, hour meter/tach in 1, snorkel, bilstien shocks, small lift, replacing all the front end bushings and steering/suspension joints. Came up with a genius idea for a water tight air box to hook up to that beautiful diesel too!

#6

finally got my engine together. so the push to get the other trucks gutted and get everything prepped is in full swing. I can't wait to hear this thing under the hood. got my EGT, and oil pressure gauges plumbed in. I'm still concerned about my injection pump condition.

I noted between the engines an average of .008 in. from the engine that went 460,000kms vs 280,000kms. The engine with the bad cylinder head #2 the blue truck had remarkably better shape internals. I do believe this strongly due to a somewhat frequent service life. As the black truck engine had water in etc. the injection pump gearing was rotten beyond use. I may have to get someone to spray weld or find a used one. The cam was in poor condition as well as the lifters, and broken rocker arm. I believe this engine would have never broken if the farmer had actually done some oil changes.... and not left it rotting in a field for 10 years lol.

but I used the block and crank in poorest shape in hopes to salvage a usable bottom end from the other truck. however as I measure and check I ended up swapping the entire valve train from the block with 440,000kms to my new engine as they were in mostly premium condition. just goes to show what maintenance can do? lol im just worried now as im used the injection pump with 280,000kms on it.... whats going to go wrong. he prolly changed the fuel filters like he did the oil... hardly ever... lol

#7

Nice thread, good photos. Keep us up to date please. Love these projects.
Too there soo expensive to rebuild. mine is starting to get tired.

#8

well im more or less not looking at the dollar vs what I am getting. ive built several gas engines and worked on countless. I've seen guys spend double and end up with less... or nothing after.

i have built and owned several other Nissan cars, fixed many and had a good few on the track. I really wanted a truck so sold all my junk for my 92 king cab 4x4, 4cyl 5spd.

purposely chose 4cyl as had all the parts from a couple s13 turbo and non turbo motors. the plan was to turbo the 2.4l. but this is where I realized after taking an extensive motorcycle tour to the west coast of Canada. premium fueled vehicles kick ass.... when you have fuel. but don't put that need octane in and your engine and its a ticking a clock to its death unless its de-tuned.

problem #1- where I live and would be wheeling. premium is not common in small towns and I REFUSE to waste money on "octane boost" that you actually need 5 bottles in a tank to make 1 octane rating lol.
problem 2- gas engines are hard to water tight.... with its ingition system and computer, etc.
Problem 3 -computers can quit easy put in the right situations
problem 4- gas engines have high rpm for max torque

then i stumbled on my diesels!!! diesel fuel is everywhere. plus it can be made relatively easy with the right equipment and knowledge. nore does it go stale like gas AND! it can be turbo'd without changing fuel grade. AND WAIT! it gets better lol the typical longevity of a diesel if its taken care of FAR out weighs a gas engine. plus... you get like 30 some mpg im told. so what if like 8psi only gets me like 95-100ish hp or so. ill have all the torque in the world to keep the tires going

and the epa worked to remove vehicles that we would have gotten like this after they started to outsell the domestic market in the 80's. I believe 87 was the last year any import company was allowed to offer diesel in north america. now with the emissions restrictions so heavy any new diesel requires an egr and DEF fluid. (which is ammonia based liquid that is injected into the exhaust stream to cause catalyst type reactions). I really have no want or concern for that junk. any diesel in good running order doesn't smoke very much if any to start.

also around here people pay top dollar... like 8-15g for a right hand drive surf or terano with a diesel. land cruisers are like 20g. so... worst case my truck is left hand drive... and completely restored, lifted, 4x4, and diesel. so it would probably be worth something good if the thought ever crossed my mind.... not likly lol

all mechanical ftw... lol

#9

alright... well its been a long time since my last update. Ive been working so furiously at my vehicle its as ride in itself lol.

i discovered after some sloppy meauring... i guess. 2wd truck springs are differnet then 4wd springs. not only are they an inch shorter. they are a square measure spring over the 4wd which is an inch or so forward off center.

i beefed up the rear frame rails for a stronger bumper, and towing

my old shackles were in ok shape but the bushing sleeves were rusted solid to them. so I went to the local bolt supply store and pulled some steel put of my pile and made some new shackles. approx .5 in taller then stock. with new grade 8 hardware

took the transfer case apart to reaseal it. after screwing arounf for abit and figure out I dropped a detent ball into the shift fork pocket got it all re-sealed. why nissan never made the front cover seal differnt i dont know.... it a PITA and then I found chips in my low gear range set

crappy. I also think this t-case is same as v-6 just differnt spline. dont quote me on that tho.

got tranny apart and switch over to the diesel bel housing and measure out the front counter shaft bearing clearance.

took some screwing around with the clutch but it would appear a CA18DET silvia s13 clutch is the same pressure plate diameter and pressure plate as the deisel!!! the bolt hole are approx 16th on an inch to narrow but they can be re-drilled since the dowel for the flywheel locate perfect in the pressure plate. so I'm usuing a stage 2 clutch I had left over from a friends ca18det build thats going in. thats a spec clutch btw

diesel on left, ka24 on right, ca18 on bottom. if I remember difference is 225mm or 230mm vs 240mm. Spec made a flywheel for the ka24 that fit a ka and sr20 clutch also. the diesel flywheel would be large enough to be re-doweled to a ka24 sized clutch atleast

got the rear axel all fitted correct with new bushings and helper leafs which fit like shit. got a DOT approved stainles brake line made up for the rear 4 inch longer. put in bilstien shocks and po;y bump stops.

put energy suspension bushings in the front and cleaned everything up. put in some low profile bump stops

safari snorkel i got off ebay. kit was incomplete but no woriries as i dont need the rest with my new airbox

bistien steering damper from automotive customisers. fits like junk. like every single product I've bought from them that they make. everyhting so far needs to be modified or adjusted like the damper that hits everything? did they test fit they"re product for proper alignment and fit? not likly lol

interiour apart

jim bob · #10

If you get in touch with me at jimfromazbc@gmail.com I may be able to help you.

I have the same thing.

#11

email sent.

sorry I havnt been posting much. Have been super busy with the truck... and things not working out with it latly. on first start up the head gasket started leaking for some reason. the engine has since been removed and inspected to find.... absolutly nothing and no explenations.... so OEM headgasket is going in.

also had some injection pump issues. poor starting... max rpm was 2900... even with a added lift pump... so it went to the fuel shop. and they have rebuild my injection pump out of both mine

. and paid an extra to have to top cover machined out for a bronze bushing. apparently nissan didnt use a bronze bushing stock? weird as VW and dodge both use this injection pump with bronze bushings

my oil pan also will not stop leaking. as welding stamped layers of sheet metal proved to be a difficult task. even after a few attempts at repair it just keeps poping little pin holes.... leaking from? I dont know... all I know is a waisted like 2 and some days on the stupid thing to throw it out haha.
PLAN B is making a completely stainless oil pan. I now hold a waterjet cut oil pan flange and bottom plates for my oil pan to be welded up this week. so I guess I get a stainless steel oil pan for my sd25

if anyone need flange diagrams i have them. I will also be making the manifold flanges and have already copied turbo flanges.

#12

ok so heres my post/ updates. its now almost december and I'm way behind my schedule... but still pluggin away at the beast. Not to mention I'm WAY over my original budget. But that's modifying vehicles for ya 101 lol.

making a few body patch panels while everything is out. might aswell make it nice for what its worth lol

I wanted a second battery/ needed one. I couldn't use the factory battery locations of the 2wd diesel. As this ruins any plans for my turbo, air box, and intercooler piping. So I made a second battery tray where there was space. passenger corner is abit crowded now... but oh well. I swapped to the 2wd p/s resevoir as the outlets were better direction and more compact/ ideal.

added some bottom trusses for stregnth

passenger floor actually had a hole in it... crazy never noticed it before until the screw driver went through. Oh well patched it gets.

and some fiberglass on top for stregnth. also to clean up the holes and keep the factory floor contour for good looks.

after I body guarded the whole floor and painted with khaki flat primer

after some engine bay paint. tremclad flat gray and Kubota orange for the hood prop rod for good visibility at night.

redrilled the clutch cover holes abit to allow the bolts to pass correctly. no concern for bolt center as dowels on flywheel align the actual cover. the bolts just hold it in place. 3/8 drill bit fixes that issue.

now as I cut the oil pan apart I realised I was in a shit load of trouble. I realised it was 2 layers of sheet metal and not 1 thick sheet. I have never attempted an oil pan before, and I'm only an ok welder by any real standard. But I gave it a whirl haha.
first I sectioned the oil pan

then I mated the 4wd bottom and the sectioned bottom

and after a lot of welding and grind/pissing around

lone and behold it leaks... so I head to local rad shop who claims they can make it seal with silver solder and rubberized liner. Seems like a good idea.... not.... after the solder enters the layers of the oil pan it will never stop leaking. my tig welding friend couldnt even fix it. guess I should have just gone to him in the first case..... oh well. Onto a custom stainless steel oil pan. I will post soon

added in guage wiring, brake controller, lights, and extra power cables run into the factory wiring harness. I used the 87 d21 wiring harness and added what I wanted into it. I swapped the 4way flasher switch. as the 87 had steering column mounted switch and my 92's was dash mounted which I liked more. I gutted the entire electrical from glow control computer and moved the wiring up to the dash for a manual momentary toggle switch for the factory relays, and glow light. the 2wd wiring harness at the cluster was wired for the 4wd light up to main junction block. So I ran the wire through the harness out to the trans for 4wd plug. I also tapped into the fuse block for some extra key on relay switch power wires.

so I got it all running and somehow my headgasket is leaking? so I call the machine shop and rally up some people to come inspect there work and mine as I pull the motor again

we inspected and nobody found anything. I found nothing.... the measurements show nothing wrong. It baffled 3 of us... including my machinist who's built 1000's of diesels. so I ordered a factory gasket this time and got my injection pump rebuilt.

More pics to come when motor goes back in with new oil pan. Now it's snowing though so it sucks to be working on it.

#13

well hes my oil pan.

cost:
material + water jet cutting - $135
AUTOCAD the flange and bottom plates - case of beer to buddy $20
fab up the pan and TIG together - bottle of patron, bottle of captain morgan and lunch. plus a couple days helping him fab and design.

took use 2 test fits and took original measurements off the oil pan I made originally. So should fit perfect now for install. I also allowed for more room around the differential incase I choose to swap to the r200a front differential. The factory oil pump makes for some weird clearances between the pan and differential we had to adjust for. I also tried to make the basin of the oil pan as large as possible to gain oil capacity.
If I remade this pan Id try and make it out of as few pieces as possible and minimize welding, since welding can possibly = leaks.

I could probably produce more of these oil pans if people wanted. It would be at a cost though.

I also got my turbo flanges but when I went to rebuild my turbo I found the lead edge compressor blades damaged

. oh well I worked out the ca18det compressor maps and they seem to match perfect for this motor from 100-150 hp. maxing about 10psi mark before overspooling. So later on when the thing actually runs for awhile I'll look into adding a gt1849v off a newer diesel xtrail or something. or maybe a replacement ball bearing for ca18. I was also pondering the toyota surf turbo as it would be similar in design needs for the motor.

post more pics soon. hopefully it works this time haha...

#14

The pan is impressive (looks good).

#15

thanks for the complement. the oil pan took a lot of effort from more then a few people. I truly appreciate those people pulling through for me.

got everything back together again finally!!!! and NO LEAKS!! seems to be running pretty good so far. the pizo clamp timing light adapter I purchased doesn't work so I'm trusting the factory mark is somewhat close for now. got exhaust on, and alignment done. the truck sits way higher then id hoped to get the alignment angles right with the ride height. those 1" ball joint spacers do a lot in ride position, alignment, droop and compression of the suspension. I currently have 1" between my upper bump stops... id rather have 1.5" but the alignment would wear tires considerably. So I will have to see what will happen. I fear the upper ball joints are going to take some punishment. The cv axels though seem to follow nice angles with the 3/8" bushing drop, so I don't think they will take anything extreme.

more pics to come as I add the last stuff.

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ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

ka24e to sd25t 4x4 swap

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