got my SD22 powered 620 running

[olderthanme]

I have swapped my SD22 into my 620 pickup with a 280zx transmission in the sd22 bellhousing.
Has a 4.375 rear gear with 225/50R15 tires. 75mph should be around 3000RPMS, if it has the power to get that fast. I've only driven it around the block.











http://youtu.be/wukJctT-VcM?list=UUdAkk ... klCN02yMBw[/youtube]

[Nissan_Ranger]

Beautiful work!

[5and2dimes1]

Very nice I always wanted to see a sd swap into a 620.

[plenzen]

Nice !

75MPH ( 120 Kph) is kinda of a lofty goal though.
I guess with a tail wind and a bit of a downward grade maybe.............
but then there's that pesky return trip

What radiator did you use ?

I like the Metropolitan in the background too.

[ehtrain]

thats a pretty slick looking little truck. I'm sure it will be decent! if not... TURBO!

[waynosworld]

Your going to be lucky to get 60mph out of 437 gears, I was getting 70mph at 3000rpms using 390 gears(stock) on level ground or down hill using stock size tires.
Right now I have a 521KC with an SD25, I can go 80mph at 3000rpms, I am running 350 gears.
If I were you, I would be looking for 390 gears to put in your rearend, you might be able to use the 370 gears in the 620, but that is pushing it for a SD22, after all, they only have 61hp.
As for turbocharging it, forget it with the inline injection pump, I have a turbocharged SD25 with an inline injection pump, and a lot of time was put into this setup, but it is a fail, the vacuum controlled inline injection pump rack is just not made for a turbocharger, mine runs, but it gets very hot fast on the hiway, I cannot go 70mph and keep the EGTs below 1400 degrees, around town it is fine, but my SD25 without the turbo is fine around town, I want power on the hiway, so it is a fail.

[ehtrain]

Your going to be lucky to get 60mph out of 437 gears, I was getting 70mph at 3000rpms using 390 gears(stock) on level ground or down hill using stock size tires.
Right now I have a 521KC with an SD25, I can go 80mph at 3000rpms, I am running 350 gears.
If I were you, I would be looking for 390 gears to put in your rearend, you might be able to use the 370 gears in the 620, but that is pushing it for a SD22, after all, they only have 61hp.
As for turbocharging it, forget it with the inline injection pump, I have a turbocharged SD25 with an inline injection pump, and a lot of time was put into this setup, but it is a fail, the vacuum controlled inline injection pump rack is just not made for a turbocharger, mine runs, but it gets very hot fast on the hiway, I cannot go 70mph and keep the EGTs below 1400 degrees, around town it is fine, but my SD25 without the turbo is fine around town, I want power on the hiway, so it is a fail.

that is very interesting! have you tried an intercooler? I can hold 80mph no problem with 5.13 gears on 35in tires i hold about 2800rpm at 70mph in 5th. turbo and intercooled at 5psi and only 1/4 turn on fuel screw. highest temps I can get is 1200F and that's only if im holding it to boards. if I coast hold at 70-80mph I drop back to 950-1000F area. I just started adding fuel and noticed big temp drops on average as motor had more power at lower rpms to keep the weight rolling. still not much smoke so I'm going to add in until I see temp spike around 1300F.

factory my truck had 4.10 gears on 215/75r15 I believe. I had no fuel added and just turbo so I tried 225/75r15 on 4.37 gears when I had them in still and the truck was pretty quick. I had no problems getting up to 85-90mph however the engien does rev higher.

[waynosworld]

I am running 330 gears in my 720, and I can easily reach 1400 degrees just getting on the freeway, and flooring it does no good, it has a lot of power starting out with hardly any pedal at all, but the more air I give it, the hotter it gets.
While driving down the freeway at about 1350 degrees going about 60mph, I can floor it and not much happens, it actually kinda loses power, just the opposite of what I am actually looking for, I want power on the freeway, I don't care about power around town, but I do care when I come to a hill on the freeway, but it gets to hot going up the hill(over 1400 degrees).
I bought this from Larry on here, he put a lot of time into this engine he had in his Volvo, but the inline injection pump just isn't made for a turbo unless one puts the throttle body/carb in front of the turbo, and that can create other issues.
I do have an innercooler, it made no difference what so ever, all that piping didn't seem to make a difference either, it acted exactly the same as it did without one.
I have noticed that there just is no sweet spot in the cruise mode, either it is speeding up, or it is slowing down, the injection pump rack cannot seem to sit in one place and let the truck go an even speed, the truck/engine surges, meaning the engine speeds up and slows down in a rhythm, while I am holding the pedal in one place, I basically think the pump rack is either floored or in the idle position, or moving somewhere in between, and that is why it gets so hot, it's always floored when any pedal is given.
Let me say that the engine does surge, but let me say this, when going 40mph down the road and holding the pedal in one spot, the engine starts to speed up, and it continues to speed up until I let off just a little, then it keeps slowing down till it sort of catches up with the amount of air it is getting, then it starts speeding up again till I let off a little again, there just is no even RPM, the speed up is slow, it's like a slow runaway.
I have a VE type injection pump, I am thinking about just converting over to that pump and hardware, that way it should work like all the other turbocharged engines out there, if it will not run cooler that way, then I will likely give up on turbocharging these engines.
By the way, I can get my regular SD25 engine without a turbo to 1400 degrees, all I have to do is floor it going up a hill, if I am floored long enough, it does get that hot and hotter, but now since installing the EGT gauge, I let off at 1400 degrees, normally I run about 800/900 degrees.

[ehtrain]

very interesting! There still should be a way to manually control the fuel rack without that diaphram and a bunch of contraption. I don't have this style IP currently on a running engine so I have done very little research other then general operation. My truck has the VE IP and It seems to run very nicely. I am continued to be impressed the more i play with it. The only time I experienced this "power drop off" or slowing down on highway when you max throttle. Was stock non turbo fuel level with 2-10psi. However now that I have started doing fuel adjustments it seems to have really woke up the truck. I seem to be getting as good or better mileage and now it has reasonable highway power and my egt's seem to be basicly the same at peak loads.

im almost positive an early td27t injection pump (pre-94 I think? has mechanical timing VE IP) will bolt in the VE injection pump plate on the sd25/sd23. This is what I have been thinking about swapping as the turbo aneroid prevents max fuel until boost, is how I understand it works. Which would be good as I think the more I crank the fuel screw in on my standard VE pump my idle rpms and fuel will increase... and possibly black smoke at idle? I have yet to find out as the truck is still pretty shy with the black smoke.

sorry for the thread hijack haha

[waynosworld]

Others have tried controlling the rack manually, but most have said it is either floored or not, it's very sensitive, and one of the drawbacks is that when you let off the pedal, the engine dies because the fuel is cut off, you see that is how it is controlled, just below idle is off, while just past floored is the start position.
It's kinda a pain this vacuum controlled injection pump, but it works really well for what it is.

very interesting! There still should be a way to manually control the fuel rack without that diaphram and a bunch of contraption. I don't have this style IP currently on a running engine so I have done very little research other then general operation. My truck has the VE IP and It seems to run very nicely. I am continued to be impressed the more i play with it. The only time I experienced this "power drop off" or slowing down on highway when you max throttle. Was stock non turbo fuel level with 2-10psi. However now that I have started doing fuel adjustments it seems to have really woke up the truck. I seem to be getting as good or better mileage and now it has reasonable highway power and my egt's seem to be basicly the same at peak loads.

im almost positive an early td27t injection pump (pre-94 I think? has mechanical timing VE IP) will bolt in the VE injection pump plate on the sd25/sd23. This is what I have been thinking about swapping as the turbo aneroid prevents max fuel until boost, is how I understand it works. Which would be good as I think the more I crank the fuel screw in on my standard VE pump my idle rpms and fuel will increase... and possibly black smoke at idle? I have yet to find out as the truck is still pretty shy with the black smoke.

sorry for the thread hijack haha

[ehtrain]

I was cruising jeep cj10 forums looking for info on belhousing swaps. this guy has comething like what I imagine http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-har ... ild-3.html

I really dont think this s^&% is that complex. I may fiddle with a inline IP if my engine keeps running strong. I have no doubts that there is an easy solution to all this confusion.

heres a bunch of cj10a links. lots still have sd33 check out some builds http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-har ... hread.html

[waynosworld]

The guy in Australia that races his turbocharged SD engine did that, he was the one that said it was basically floored or not floored, he eventually went to a modified VE type pump, that whole adventure is on a thread here on this forum somewhere.
I myself have already mocked up an injection pump with a manual controlled rack, but it has so many issues with start up and shut down that I have not figured out yet.
I am of the opinion that some kind of controlled vacuum leak is the way to go, like having a dedicated vacuum source, and then putting something like a RC airplane engine carburetor on the top of the rack connected to a "T", the other end of the "T" goes to the vacuum source, when you give it pedal it looses vacuum and lets the rack travel accordingly, but since I have a VE type injection pump, I suspect I will just use that till I get this turbocharged thing figured out, then if I want to do another one, I will mess around with that one on another way to do it.

I was cruising jeep cj10 forums looking for info on belhousing swaps. this guy has comething like what I imagine http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-har ... ild-3.html

I really dont think this s^&% is that complex. I may fiddle with a inline IP if my engine keeps running strong. I have no doubts that there is an easy solution to all this confusion.

heres a bunch of cj10a links. lots still have sd33 check out some builds http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-har ... hread.html

[ehtrain]

my thinking is if this little diaphram moves the rack and returns it based on pressure change. Then if someone calculates surface area pressure you should be able to find a spring to put in place of the diaphram. If the spring is proper then the control rack should return to neutral the same as if the pressure change had been present. I have not taken one of these inline IP apart. I don't know if the governor weights have anything to do with the throttle position or if that is controlled through another mechanism in the lower housing.
If not I would take the pump apart until I can control the rack by hand. then apply the above method.

I need to do some more reading. But I also having the VE IP and a spare drive plate. I want to swap a td27t pump on or atleast the the proper turbo top hat. I think the top hat may just switch over like a toyota.