Transmission removal help request

[cseger1]

Hey Folks,

I am pulling the trans from my 81 parts truck and I have hit a snag. Here's what I've done so far.

Pulled:

driveshaft
starter
exhaust down tube
4 large bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine
2 small blots at bottom of bell housing
transmission support crossmember
slave cylinder
speedo drive cable
shifter select shaft

According to the manual I should be able to seperate the engine from the tranny. I can't. I have the trans on a regular (non transmission) jack, supported in the middle. I can't seem to roll thge trans away from the motor. Any help would be appreciated.

THX

[Nissan_Ranger]

There are 2 pilot pins that may be tight in the holes. You'll have to carefully apply a couple of flying wedges and gently work the assemblies apart. Be careful that the whole thing doesn't come free suddenly and come off the jack onto you.

HTH,

N_R

[cseger1]

That's sort of what it feels like. Something binding.... I have changed course and will be pulling the trans with the motor out the top. Thanks for the help.

[scottfelsen]

It does sound like you need a little muscle to get it out. It will likely come loose all of a sudden so be carful. This happened to me. I pried it loose with a screw driver carefully. Mine was stuck too...

[ecomike]

There are 2 pilot pins that may be tight in the holes. You'll have to carefully apply a couple of flying wedges and gently work the assemblies apart. Be careful that the whole thing doesn't come free suddenly and come off the jack onto you.

HTH,

N_R

I am about to pull mine to replace the entire clutch system, wondering if there are any other possible surprises to watch out for other that the 2 stuck pins? Mine is an 85 Cherokee, so I may have other issues, or not, just wondering about any issues getting the bell housing off mostly.

Thanks.

[Nissan_Ranger]

This would be a good time to check the transmission input main and layshaft bearings...

N_R

[ecomike]

All went well in the clutch assy swap. Had a little trouble figuring out how to remove and replace the throwout bearing, and arm, but the FSM solved that. Got about a 50% reduction in the foot force needed to press the clutch pedal using the OEM clutch to replace the AM heavy duty set up I installed about 12 years ago. Enough that I can use it for a short local trip on good days for my weak knees and legs (fighting really bad R-arthritis). Need about another 50% reduction to reach what I felt on the new Ford focus I tested recently, which would allow me to operate it in 2 hours of rush hour bottleneck traffic, stop and go with out killing me. I was told recently that I should just power shift except for neutral to first and into reverse, that it is easier on the clutch and the right way to operate a manual transmission? Any one ever heard that before? Thoughts?

I am thinking of looking for a smaller piston diameter slave cylinder for the transmission, to further reduce the foot pressure. Any suggestions?

The Transmission was in great shape, the throw out bearing starting to get dry and the clutch about 70% worn after about 75,000 miles.

[cseger1]

Hey Mike, glad to hear you're still at it with the Jeep. I've just pulled my truck out of mothballs after six years of sitting.

I typically powershift my motorcycle rather than clutch. Not sure if there's an advantage as far as gears are concerned but it would definitely add longevity to the clutch to drive that way. It's what long haul truckers do. I think I'll try getting in the habit with my truck. The six years of sitting began with a worn out clutch.