How to install new liners into the sd25 engine
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How to install new liners into the sd25 engine
I have a sd25 with a warped head and a scored cylinder I have found sleeve kits on ebay but do not know how to install them do you just press the old ones out then the new ones in? I have tried googling it but no luck and do you need profesional machines or can I backyard mechanic the install?? If anyone knows anything I would greatly appretiate the help
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Re: How to install new liners into the sd25 engine
My machine shop guy said he pounded the old ones out, but there was a trick to putting the new ones in, he is not in business anymore so I cannot even ask him anymore what the trick was, I suspect it has something to do with hot and cold, but I do not know for sure.
I know the voices are not real,
but they have some really good ideas.
but they have some really good ideas.
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Re: How to install new liners into the sd25 engine
I found one forum that said it may be a good idea to heat up the engine block and to freeze the liners. I will use everything I can think of to get these liners out and new ones installed thanks for your help.
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Re: How to install new liners into the sd25 engine
Just caught this
We used to just drive out the old liners using a hardwood???? "Plug" for lack of a better term. If that failed to move them we had an aluminum slug we would use. Had to pound on some of them pretty good.
We sat the block on hardwood timbers with a space made for the liner to come out.
Install, we would put the put the liners in the freezer for 24 hrs. We would have a large CO2 fire extinguisher standing by, with a small cardboard box
(about the size of a liner)
We'd use the rosebud on the oxy torch and heat the block
(gently and evenly) to around 350-375 degrees.
Once the block was hot, we would take a liner from the freezer, put it in the cardboard box, blast it with the CO2 and then, as straight and evenly as we could, drop it in the block.
Have a guy stand by with a hardwood block and 2lb hammer and if it didn't drop all the way down, send it with that hammer right away. You usually had 1 chance, then, if it was stuck, you best pound it out quick as you can with the wooden plug. .
Once they are all in and the block has cooled a bit, you want to send them home with a good whack with the hardwood block and hammer.
They will usually lift 2 or 3 thou as they cool after install, and hitting them home after they are all in will eliminate any future head gasket issues.
If you have the block sat (crank side down with the main caps off) nice and flat on some good oak or ash 2x4s and have a chunk of hardwood 4x4 up top, and go across the liners, you can hit it pretty hard and not damage anything.
That was how we did it back in the 70s. If you could get some liquid nitrogen now it would be pretty easy but still would have to "set them" after install while block was still warm.
Use a scotchbrite at the top of the bores where the liners sit, and clean that recess really well so they sit nice and flush and square in that space. Scotchbrite the whole bore in fact before you put the new ones in.
Have fun.
Paul
We used to just drive out the old liners using a hardwood???? "Plug" for lack of a better term. If that failed to move them we had an aluminum slug we would use. Had to pound on some of them pretty good.
We sat the block on hardwood timbers with a space made for the liner to come out.
Install, we would put the put the liners in the freezer for 24 hrs. We would have a large CO2 fire extinguisher standing by, with a small cardboard box
(about the size of a liner)
We'd use the rosebud on the oxy torch and heat the block
(gently and evenly) to around 350-375 degrees.
Once the block was hot, we would take a liner from the freezer, put it in the cardboard box, blast it with the CO2 and then, as straight and evenly as we could, drop it in the block.
Have a guy stand by with a hardwood block and 2lb hammer and if it didn't drop all the way down, send it with that hammer right away. You usually had 1 chance, then, if it was stuck, you best pound it out quick as you can with the wooden plug. .
Once they are all in and the block has cooled a bit, you want to send them home with a good whack with the hardwood block and hammer.
They will usually lift 2 or 3 thou as they cool after install, and hitting them home after they are all in will eliminate any future head gasket issues.
If you have the block sat (crank side down with the main caps off) nice and flat on some good oak or ash 2x4s and have a chunk of hardwood 4x4 up top, and go across the liners, you can hit it pretty hard and not damage anything.
That was how we did it back in the 70s. If you could get some liquid nitrogen now it would be pretty easy but still would have to "set them" after install while block was still warm.
Use a scotchbrite at the top of the bores where the liners sit, and clean that recess really well so they sit nice and flush and square in that space. Scotchbrite the whole bore in fact before you put the new ones in.
Have fun.
Paul
Retired Pauly
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
Problem with being retired is that you never get a day off.
1987 D21-J SD25 KC
KJLGD21FN
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Re: How to install new liners into the sd25 engine
That sounds like an art form I Am definitely in for a long process. I have a service manual for a 1981 diesel datsun and the service manual shoes a press tool part number st10300000 I have had no luck finding the tool, just instructs to press out old press in new and to check the height it protrudes from the block. must be many ways to skin a cat
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Re: How to install new liners into the sd25 engine
Even if you managed to install the new liner with these crazy recommendations.... u will still need to have finish machining and cross hatching to be re-checked.... also you will need a cylinder dial indicator to mack sure the cylinders are the even... and correctly installed.... ... ud best just pay a machine shop to hot tank the block for cleaning... and have them install and finish the sleeves... and rebuild everything... u will need to take your cylinder/bore diameter dial indicator. And check there work as it will be in between .001 in measurements needed. And you will need the same to check crabk and cam shaft diameters... everything...
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